Need help with double flares on brake tube [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Need help with double flares on brake tube

Feb 11th, 01, 04:52 PM
I bought the KD-2199 double flare tool and can make single flares but not double flares. Theres no instructions in the tool kit on double flares and this is a custom job so stock replacement lines will not work. Anyone have a picture diagram on double flares, thanks.

Feb 11th, 01, 05:53 PM
Did the kit come with a series of mandrels that fit into the bore of the tube to start the double flare? Most standard hardware store flaring tools only come with the pipe clamp and the single-flare u-shaped tool that hooks over the clamp to make the flare.

Bench-made double flares are tough, especially the smaller diameters. Some hydraulic shops have machines that can do a great job.

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Feb 11th, 01, 05:53 PM
All you have ta do is flare once with the flare being the correct "diameter", then re-install the tubing so that you can use the double flaring "buttons" to double flare the line. And don't forget to put your tubing "nut" on the tubing before flaring.

You know, "I cut that 2x4 off twice and its still tooo short" sh-t. Hope this helps. pdq67

Feb 11th, 01, 06:03 PM
Whoops, sorry for the extra post.

Debur the I.D. and O.D. of the tube.

If the kit has the mandrels then try this. Look at the head of the mandrel. There should be a step in the head of the mandrel that is about 1/8" long. This step is used as a gauge to measure the amount the tube is to stick through the clamp.

1) Loosly insert the tube into the clamp.

2) Place the appropriate mandrel upside-down on the clamp and slide it next to the portion of the tube sticking through the clamp.

3) Adjust the tube so that the end is even with the first step on the mandrel.

4) Tighten the clamp and install the mandrel into the end of the tube.

5) Slide the flaring tool over the clamp and mandrel. The mandrel should have a small countersink for the tip of the flaring tool to seat into.

6) Tighten the flaring tool until the mandrel seats on the clamp.

7) Remove the mandrel and finish the flare with the flaring tool.

Using a little oil during the process sometimes helps it go a little smoother.

Good luck.

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Feb 11th, 01, 06:20 PM
Just to add to carl's post.
deburring the end of the tube completely is very important, do a good job and make the tube square, meaning 90 degrees from the sides. But chamfer the outer edge so it can roll in.
If the end isn't square to the tube the mandril will be started crooked and you won't get a straight first press.
The idea is to make a buldge in the tube to start the end folding over to make the double flare.

If you squash the tube in the clamp a bit when making a flair, then if the flair doesn't come out good enough, and you cut the tube shorter, you will have a hell of a time flaring the area that was in the clamp and squashed.

Take care in positioning the flairing tool over the tube get it centered and square.
Don't forget to put the flair nut on first, I don't know how many times I left it off!
Eastwood has a good tubing bender based on vice grip pliers that is great for tight bends.

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[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 02-11-2001).]

Feb 13th, 01, 03:30 PM
Problem was a cheap flare tool, clamp bar was letting the brake line slide out, bought a Snap-On kit, problem solved. To everyone that posted, THANK YOU!.