I have a 1969 Camaro RS with a 327, aluminum heads, turbo 350 tranny. I cut a coil off the front springs taken from a 67 straight six car. I want to drop the rear 2 inches. Does anybody know anything about the composite leafsprings from Vette Brakes? Will drop-blocks work with Cal-Tracs traction bars?
Thanks

[This message has been edited by char damneun (edited 08-26-2000).]

I have the Vette Brakes springs on my '69 along with 2" blocks. They work well, handle plenty of power and the car corners great. The ride is a little harsh but I suspect it's a combination of 45 series 17" tires, cut front springs, polyurethane bushings, and the stiffer rear springs. I don't have any idea if the blocks and springs will work with the traction bars - the springs work well enough for me that I don't need bars. Then again, I don't race at the track and/or run slicks.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

Can you tell me what the drop blocks are,how they install and where to get theme.Sorry about the stupid question but I am a rookie at this and any help would be appreciated.

Hi Scott, i recall you had 150 lbs/inch rearleaf springs. Do they work well or do think 200 models would be better? iam going to move shocks inboard the springs and make "minitubs" to make room 11X17 wheel and 315 tire. iam not going to move springs.it seems easy task to do. thanks Joni

I have a 68 and the 200 lb/in composite monosprings from VB&P. I also have 1" blocks from Guldstrand. I put them in between the spring and rear end mounts. I also have 2 questions: My springs came with rubber pads, are they optional? Both of them have a "nipple" in the middle, put the rearend mounts (on the axle) don't have a hole for it. Plus, the pads appear to already have some kind of pads on them. Also, is there a way to make sure the rearend is square on the springs and not put in at an angle?

I don't know what advantage the heavier springs would be unless you're racing at high speeds. I think the 150 lb springs are great for the average street guy.

My lowering blocks are aluminum blocks I got at Pep Boys along with new u-bolts.

Stock springs and axle mounting pads should have a pin/hole arrangement to allow the two to lock together. The lowering blocks should also have a hole in the bottom and a pin on the top to maintain that connection system. I haven't seen any axle mounting pads that didn't have the hole - you definitely do not want these parts to get loose from each other.

The rubber pads were a pain. They made it hard to get a positive engagement of the pins and holes. I eliminated the top pad and used a thin piece of hard rubber instead. On the bottom I kept the rubber pad but I cut the rubber "nipple" off and lengthened the bolt and nut arrangement in the spring so it fit well into the hole on the block.



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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

would 165 mph qualify as heavy spring-worthy?

Nothing like a 700-R4 and 3.55s!!!

WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!

--p.s. only on the track