I noticed in the footnotes for the Hedman headers I intend to use (65003) they say "Will not fit with (Saginaw) close ratio PS". Many here say they are using those headers with PS. Is there a difference in the size or shape of that box? How do you know if you have it? My box came out of a mid 70s Camaro and is 2 turns lock to lock.

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 05-21-2002).]

there is no difference in PS boxes in the family that will fit a Camaro.

There is one with a snap ring top, and a bigger one for old Cadillacs and pickups.

It is interesting the PS box only sticks inward from the frame about a half inch more than a manual box.

I think they are saying it won't clear PS- period.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

just one of those deals where it depends on what engine mounts you have. there are at least 2 different small block mounts, i think.if you have a big block, disregard this. that is a totally different animal.
if you have 307/327 mounts, it will hit the box. if you have 302/350 mounts, it should clear.
how to tell what you have? if you have an HEI distributor, it will clear with the 307/327 mounts, but need a little "massaging" on the firewall with the ever handy BFH if you have the "hi-po" 302 or 350 mounts.

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1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
see pics here http://community.webshots.com/user/novaderrik

Well the verdicts in. IT FITS! It's like a surgical glove. The pipes bend right around the PS box and come very close to the rear upper A-arm bolt. I bet there isn't 1/16" clearance between those points but it does fit.
I have the 307/327 mounts. Installing it wasn't that bad. The instruction say to raise the front end 3 feet off the ground. I guess they anticpiate you coming straight up with it. I had just put the engine in there and don't have the trans in yet. I removed the drivers side motor mount bolt and put a chain on the left side head front to back and raised the engine from above letting it pivot on the right side mount. I had to raise it about 3 inches but then the header slid right up there. After starting the bolts the engine dropped right down in place. I'll bet I wouldn't be able to do it like that when I have the full drive train assembled.
Now for the next question. I removed the Z-bar by removing just the top nut that attaches the pivot bolt to the plate. I got a feeling that's going to be a bear to get back on. I can't get my hand up there to start the nut and the pivot bolt has to be seated in the slot first. Would it be easier to remove the entire plate, attach the pivot bolt and try to put it back on the frame from the inside like that? I'll be attempting that tonight.

Put the nut and washer on the pivot bolt first, and then slide the bolt down into the slot of the bracket. The bolt is ground flat on 2 sides to fit in the slot and to prevent it from turning when tightened.

You mean the slot is open from the top? WHOOPPEEE, that sounds easy.
Makes me feel like a dope for how long it took to unthread that nut all the way with a box end!

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 05-22-2002).]

those craftsman ratcheting boxend wrenches work great for that!