CFunK
Feb 22nd, 03, 07:56 PM
Has anyone replaced the original upper control arm bolts with studs?
Tonight I found the original bolts had backed out of the upper control arm shaft and was wondering if studs would solve this problem. The bolts were torqued with some Lock Tite Blue and still backed out.
I know GW sells a stud kit but I don't like the price and until Monday I am not sure if it will fit stock shafts or the GW shafts.
novaderrik
Feb 23rd, 03, 01:39 PM
the GW shafts have studs, as do some of the better replacement shafts out there ( i have a feeling the GW shafts are just Moogs thrown into a different box and the price marked up accordingly). the GW studs fit only stock arms.
davidpozzi
Feb 23rd, 03, 02:29 PM
Yes the bolts on the ends of the upper A frame cross shaft can back out if you use polly or other non stock bushings.
GW sells studs to weld in place to fix it. Or they now have billet shafts, according to their site.
David
CFunK
Feb 23rd, 03, 03:45 PM
I am going to try some Loctite Red first. But why do they back out with Poly bushings?
RickB1B
Feb 23rd, 03, 04:10 PM
Mine kept coming out with poly bushings. I finally had to really torque them down. I mean REALLY torque them down to get them to stay put. The whole time I thought i was going to either strip it or break it.
PDQUICK
Feb 24th, 03, 06:48 AM
Because they are so much stiffer, the poly bushings transfer a lot more of the road shock into the cross shafts than the mushy stockers. This makes it more likely that they will vibrate the nuts off!
davidpozzi
Feb 24th, 03, 05:56 PM
The polly slips like a solid bushing would, meaning there is more twist put against the large end washer.
The rubber just flexes without any sliding and doesn't put the same torque against the washer.
The bolt head can be drilled and safety wired with stainless steel wire, but even that has broken.
GW sells small studs and recomends they be welded in place using a TIG welder only.
David