been at this for 3 weeks..I have 3 out of 4 lower control arm bolts out. The 4th one is the driver's side rear. I got the nut off, but I can't get the bolt out of the frame. It seems like it is frozen on the bushing a bit..the bolt turns, but I think the whole inside of the bushing is turning with it. I let it soak with WD40 for a week, I tried hammering in the little space there is and I can't get a good swing at it.
The other 3 I was able to screw out, but no matter how much I turn this one it will not come out.

I have been trying to find a way to press it out, but little room to work.

Anybody been in this situation before?

pound it back as far as you can, then cut it off and pound it back into the hole so you can drop the arm out with the cut off bolt inside the bushing. those necked down factory bolts are kind of a pain, as you found out.

Tou may be able to use an air chisle (sp?) to press it out of the hole. That's what I did.

Put the nut back on about 80% - 90%. Take your half inch socket extension, place it on the nut, take a hammer and see if you can't knock it loose. If you are afraid you're going to hurt something then forggggedt about it. No seriously, try this and don't be afraid to place some elbo grease on the hammer.

if you cannot get the bolt to move at all to cut it, or you cant grind it down enough to force the arm out, there is another way, but it's kinda yucky.

ya gotta cut some of the outer case off the bushing and then get the rubber out. then you can see the inner sleeve which the bolt is seized to. it's kinda involved, so i hope you don't have to resort to it. anyway, you can then heat up the sleeve and get the bolt out, or find the separation line in the sleeve, and chisel it open.

i do this with a torch, and a garden hose, because the rubber catches on fire (which actually makes it easier to remove). it's dangerous and messy and i do not recommend it unless there is no other choice.

I got so tired of hammering on my one last bolt that I took a Saws-All to it and had it out in 15 minutes.

Originally posted by stope4:
'Take your half inch socket extension, take a hammer and see if you can't knock it loose. No seriously, try this and don't be afraid to place some elbo grease on the hammer.' Must be Harbor Frieght tools... :D

I use this new-fangled thingy called a "drift" - I don't beat on my extensions.

Also, GM makes a great product called "Heat Riser Lubricant" - it comes in a small can, like 3-in-1 Oil, and is available a most dealerships. This stuff really soaks into hard to get to places and loosens rusted bolts much better than WD-40 or most others.

Just my .02...

Vintage, I used a drift to start with. I cut a piece of 7/16" or 1/2" rod about 18" long and snaked it through the crossmember from the firewall side (it was the front bolt I couldn't get out). I hammered on that thing with a sledge but the bolt was too rusted to the bushing sleeve.
Tokyo doesn't have that luxery though.... his is the rear bolt.
I'll have to look for that Heat Riser lube. Kroil works wonders also.

PB Blaster rust penetrant??

Can you get a trusty 4" or so angle grinder up in the spot and grind everything off flush??

I had to do all six of the rear spring front hanger bolts.. Kind of a pain but not bad at all. Just wear double eye protection!!

pdq67

I have used Hwy Star Joe's idea using a saws all and a good thin metal cutting blade. Either that or the blue wrench! The saws all won't cause as much molten stinky rubber as the blue wrench though. Nothin like the smell of burnin rubber in the morning.
Jim

I don't understand why people bust their *** trying to get these a-arm bolts out when all you gotta do is cut 'em and drop the arms!
You're obviously not going to reuse the bolts OR the bushings.
CUT 'EM in a matter of seconds and get on with the next step in your project! I hacked at one of mine with a Saws-All with Dewalt blades and destroyed 2 or 3 blades. Ran out and picked up Black & Decker blades and had the bolt cut in 10 minutes.

I've done this a few times and each time I used a torch to get the bolts redhot. That usually is all it takes to break the bolt from the inner sleeve. Needless to say, I use new bolts when reinstalling.

Fastest way ever is a 4" hand held grinder and a cutoff wheel. Makes the sawzall seem slow smile.gif