I got the p/s box out of a 85 Z/28 in a junk yard a few months back it seemed fine. Now I have it all painted up and I bolted it in the other day. I don't have it hooked up to the pump yet and I lost alot of p/s fluid when I was centering it for install. I checked this thing all out before painting it, it looked fine. Today I noticed a small puddle under my car. I looked up under p/s box and noticed it's coming from the small shaft where the steer coupler connects.

So how hard is it to fix this leak once it's out of the car? I can't believe this :mad: . Could this have happened when I installed it to the column? It shouldn't have, when I installed it I held it in place had a friend above putting the bolts in the st/coupler then I snugged up the bolts on the subframe. Sound right? Thanks

There is a Cup seal in the top threaded adjuster plug around the shaft. To change it, remove the very large thin nut, then the large threaded plug from the box.
With the plug out, remove the snap ring, flat washer and cup seal and replace with new parts.

You should be able to find a kit at the parts store. Get a kit for the year of the box.
David

Hi David,

So you don't think that it is a big deal to fix this, no speacial tools? When I get the kit if it has other seals with it should I replace them too or are the other ones harder to do? How long should it take to replace the cup seal? I have the steering box all centered will fixing seal throw any of my setup off? Thanks

David,
Could you please answer above questions? Thanks

The top seal kit is easy to change out.
You don't need any special tools.
Don't waste your money on a complete overhaul kit, just get the input shaft seal kit for the year of your box.

I won't guarantee the box won't still leak but it's worth a try. I've resealed three pickups on our farm and they all worked.
David

Thanks David,

I already ordered the worm shaft seal kit. When I got this st/box at junk yard they also had one out of a 89 Firebird non T/A. I checked that box before I bought the 85 Z/28 box and they were both 2-1/2 turn boxes. I just thought the Z box may be better because it's out of a Z. I'm thinking about taking it back and getting the other one. What do you think?

The firebird box sounds like it may be a slower ratio. I'd try the Z/28 box with a new seal. changing the seal is real easy, you do need a pair of snap ring pliers. Instructions should be with the seal kit.
You just need the top seal which consists of a cup seal, flat washer, and O ring.

Some kits have teflon rings and parts for the spool valves inside but you don't want to mess with that stuff!
David

Thanks David, I'll let you know how it goes.

David,

I got the seal today the only thing in it was a seal about the size of a quarter kinda looked like the seal in the back of a rotor but much smaller. I didn't get it on yet. I was told by the parts man that when I take that thin nut off I have to push on the shaft or it will move and everything inside will have to be re-adjusted. I also have to use a torque wrench to tighten the nut back up or the tension won't be right and it will ruin the gears. What's your take on this? Thanks

Just don't be a gorilla when you reassemble it! smile.gif
I've done two boxes this year and no problems. You have to loosen the nut, then unscrew the plug. change the seal and replace. Just tighten the plug down by hand, don't use a crowbar on it!

If you want to do it the "right" way, buy a manual and follow the instructions, but if you retighten the plug to where it was when you removed it, you will be OK.
Just put an index mark on the box and on the plug, line them up when you replace the plug. I didn't even bother to do that, I just tightened by hand till it was snug. If you overtighten I guess it would make the box tight and you'd have to readjust it.

I would take the advice of a mechanic before taking the advice of a parts man. See if you can talk to one about what you are going to do if you have any doubts.
David

Ok David,

Sounds good I'll do it tomorrow. I'll try not to Gorilla it but I have a habit of doing that. smile.gif

Thanks

David,

I got the new O ring for outside of plug, stub shaft seal, Dust seal and snap ring. I found out I was only given a seal not the kit before. So I went to A/Zone today and got the kit. I have what is hopefully a small problem.

When I put the stub shaft seal in, it would not go in without me tapping it down pretty hard with a socket a little smaller than the size of the seal, and a hammer. I hit it down til it seemed to bottom out. When I put the dust seal and snap ring on, there was and is a .060 - .090 gap between the two.

The shaft turns as good as it did before everything seems ok but I'm not sure. What do you think? Will it be ok and maybe even move up against the snap ring after using it a while or do I have to take it apart again? IF I have to, how do I tap the stub shaft seal from the bottom up (using what tool) to get it up where it needs to be without ruining it? Do you think the bearings in the plug are ok even though I had to tap on their housing? Thanks

I think you put it in just fine. It should work OK as it is. the flat rubber washer is just a dust seal to protect the lower seal.
David

David,

Yeh, I know it's just a dust seal but I was afraid I tapped the stub shaft seal too hard against the bearing. It's just that the old dust seal had an imprint of the snap ring and now this one has a gap. Also I put p/s fluid on the seals and oring before install. If you say no problem it sounds good to me. Thanks again

I'm guessing the O ring is where my leak was since it was leaking out from under the big nut.

BTW: That nut must have rusted a little on there because when I finally got it to move it brought the adjuster plug along with it.

[ 11-25-2003, 10:13 PM: Message edited by: RamJam ]