I was reading a an article in Chevy Hi-performancemagazine- jan 2002 on Daryl Kallweit's 68 orange Camaro....pretty awesome car. Did you guys see it?
Anyways, he's running 335/18's in the rear on 18x12 Colorado Custom- Lanear wheels and that setup with the low stance looks incredible.
I'm getting some crazy ideas of possible mini-tubbing my 67 F-body Convertible to fit those size tires with the Intro wheels.

What do I need to do- mini-tub the rear fendorwells or just relocate the rear springs/shocks???
Will my 12 bolt rear work okay with wheels so large?? I also want the deepest dish possible(like a foot deep).
What does something like this cost to get done, ballpark??? Will the car ride okay wheels so large or will I have any problems?
Thanks, Chris

BTW, do any of you guys know specifics on this dude's setup- like backspacing, suspension kit and rear end used??

Chris, usually they shorten the rear (cut down the housing, and install shorter axles), i'm sure you could get a wheel with big backspacing, but i think that would look goofy, but it would only be possible to gain an inch or two that way.

ALot of guys as switch to coil-overs, a panhard bar, and ethier a 4-link or ladder bars, other systems can be used though if you want to keep your rear sheetmetal and rear frame rails behind the rear seat intact, without messing around with it.

If you want to keep the leaf springs, they can be moved around, the shocks would need to be relocated. The problem with this is that you need to change over to a fuel cell and relocate it to the trunk, becuase the gas tank would be in the way of where you want to move the springs.

Your going to need alot of experience in welding and fab work to acomplish this.

check out www.detroitspeed.com (http://www.detroitspeed.com) and look at the finished projects section. Lots of pictures and descriptions of the process and how to stuff 335 rubber back there.

I remember someone saying that Detroit Speed charges around $4000 for a mini-tubbing. I don't remember exactly.

If your interested in mini-tubbing I just finished mine and have some pics of the various stages it went through. Basically easy but it does involve a bunch of large scale cutting and then welding. I had access to an unlimited supply of 16ga steel and a big band saw to make the filler panel and this was a definite bonus. I even have pics of the templates I made for the fill in area left over from relocating the inner fender well against the frame. Dont forget that if you do this that the rear seat will NOT fit unless you remove some of the vertical supports on each end of the upright section and then reweld or tack them in for clearance.

Jim