Feb 13th, 01, 12:52 PM
I looked through the archives and didn't see anything similar... so here goes. '69 Base Model with multi-leaf has 15x8 with 50 series tires in the rear, there is only about 1 3/4 inch from the top of the tire to the fender lip. This can't be stock? I figure if I put a 60-65 series tire on that same wheel it would drag. I have learned the axle tube to bottom of frame rail measures 5.2-6.72 inches for stock. I haven't measured mine yet. I want to give the car a nice "rake" but am not sure if I should shell out 200 bucks for some PST repro's? Are mine bad? What is the title of the book that gives all specs like this?
Also, I read the post on the 69' front end prob. My car's passenger side front wheel is just a little bit closer to the fender than the driver's side (it drags when I turn sharp) I wasn't able to figure out if the answer to the ather post was YES you CAN loosen and adjust the subframe? Or NO NO NO...don't ever do that..!?
Feb 13th, 01, 01:20 PM
Well I got a '67 with mono's. The rear used to sag. What I did was buy air shocks and pump em to at least 40. Their at about 60psi now. I need new springs but I gotta save up for some good ones.
Here's what I suggest you do, replace the body mount bushings with polyurethane. Get a 1" solid sway bar and new end links. I'd also get new front springs if I was you (just got mine 600lb ones) and shorten em a little.
What I found out when I replaced my body bushings is the car raised up about an inch (the front). www.globalwest.com (http://www.globalwest.com) is supposed to have the best upper and lower A-arm bushings(no deflection) and I'm gonna buy their rear springs once I get the cash.
Also check out http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm
Lots of good suspension info there. I'd recommend lower your ride about and inch front and back. You probly want new springs and adjustable shocks rather than air shocks.
First things to replace would be rear springs and shocks and front sway bar and SwayBar bushings. The solid 1" sway bar is the best when you look at the numbers but the Hotchkis one is about 20lbs lighter.
Feb 13th, 01, 05:27 PM
I suggest that you install a pair of Jegs or anybody's bolt in subframe connectors if you are gonna beat on your car w/ plenty of rear rubber. IMHO. pdq67
Feb 13th, 01, 11:14 PM
PDQ67, I'm guessing, but I should probably move the subframe over first (to center it), before I put on the subframe connectors.
69 SS396 Clone, B&M TH400, 3.55 12 Bolt Posi, Blue w/White Z28 Stripes, Chrome Rally Wheels
[This message has been edited by Joe G (edited 02-14-2001).]