View Full Version : Rear suspension for road race/autocross


Uncle Caleetro
Sep 7th, 04, 04:52 PM
I am currently building a '69 R/S to be a pro-touring/road race car, and I have decided on basically everything except the rear suspension. I am going to go with a full DSE conversion upfront, so it will have coil-overs, tubular uppers and lowers, front sway bar, steering gear, tie rod adjusters, and inner and outer tie rod ends. I will also be relocating the upper control arm mounting point, installing weld-in subframe connectors, solid aluminum body mount bushings, full delrin bushings, and 4 wheel Wilwood discs.

My problem is that I cannot decide on the rear suspension. I would really like to go with a coil-over setup for adjustability, so I have been looking at the Martz Chassis setup, but I hear a four link is not so great for handling. Could anyone recommend a good coil over setup for my rear suspension? Thanks.

Also, if there is anything else I should or could change with the front suspension to make it better, please let me know, It is easy to make changes right now, as I have not bought the stuff yet. Thanks again.
-Jason

[ 09-07-2004, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Caleetro ]

davidpozzi
Sep 7th, 04, 07:03 PM
A four link is OK if the links are parallel meaning they do not converge in side view. If they converge they can bind the suspension in roll.

I haven't seen the Martz rear setup.
If you go with leaf's, the Global West cat5 rear leafs look great.
David

Uncle Caleetro
Sep 8th, 04, 06:27 PM
http://www.martzchassis.net I think they are parallel, how you were describing it. Is there any coil over system that works better than a four link?
-Jason

mdprovee
Sep 9th, 04, 07:07 AM
According to the website pictures for the 67-69 camaro, the bars are not parallel. If you extended or continued the bars past the front mounting point they would meet. The parallel 4 bar system, if you extended the bars past the mounting point they do not meet.

Mike

RYAN c
Sep 9th, 04, 11:30 AM
if you want to be able to adjust it and dial it in.....your best bet is a three link with a panhard bar.

with a 4 link/paralell 4 link/ both with a panhard somthing is ganna bind..with bushings it wont be noticable tho,with rod ends it wouldnt be good. you can go with a triangulated 4 link and eliminate the panhard, but you also put the roll center/ and upper arm anti squat numbers together. so one adustastment moves both #s...simple but ?????????

with a 3 link you can dial in everything as,rc,ra,etc..........add adjustble coilovers and its infanant sp? what you can do..

boodlefoof
Sep 9th, 04, 11:57 AM
I like the look of the triangulated 4-bar, but I'm really just learning about different rear suspension systems myself.

Uncle Caleetro
Sep 9th, 04, 07:02 PM
Are there any places that offer a three link for the '69s, or would it have to be custom fabricated? I would really like to find something that is basically a kit, because I don't want to mess up designing something.
-Jason

davidpozzi
Sep 9th, 04, 07:39 PM
Detroit speed either has a kit or will soon have one for a 4 link. http://www.detroitspeed.com/

None of these kits are a snap to install though. They will require lots of welding and cutting.

Check http://www.pro-touring.com for some suspension talk on three links and four links.

Leaf springs are not so bad if they are done right...

http://www.martzchassis.net/c03.jpg
the martz links converge at a pretty sharp angle. If the car were to lean in a turn, the links would try to twist the rear axle housing. In other words the housing would now be an anti-roll bar!

The anti-roll bar shown will have no influence on handling because the rear axle housing is a larger anti-roll bar by a LOT!

To me, this shows a lack of understanding on the part of Martz. It may be OK on a drag car but not on a street car.
David

[ 10-02-2004, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: davidpozzi ]

RYAN c
Sep 9th, 04, 09:05 PM
holy instant center batman........lol.....

if the arms dont have ajustment up and down ....its a hit and miss....it your car is too low it screws the geometry....too high...the same...center of gravity moves...screwd again...and still even if its perfect...its ganna change track to track...tire to tire...driver to driver...etc...

if you have basic skills and can fabricate a little/weld/etc....i can set you up with a 3 link kit...there are going to be many ways of doing it so if you are interesterd email me or call the shop...4084966595

ryan