rojo
Feb 13th, 01, 02:34 AM
What keeps the outside pad from moving around and subsequently rattling at very low speed? Do you bend the small part that hooks over the caliper or am I missing some clips. The inside pads have clips.
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Robert
'69 getting better every day... (every pay day)
[This message has been edited by rojo (edited 02-13-2001).]
Nordbert
Feb 13th, 01, 03:23 AM
Don't laugh at this one! I put a small
layer of plain old high temp silicone where
the caliper and piston contact the back of
the pad. A good alternate product is CRC
brand DISC BRAKE QUIET. It comes in a handy
4oz. squeeze bottle. Part # 05016
davidpozzi
Feb 13th, 01, 04:49 AM
the outer pad clips are supposed to be cinched down to the caliper.
The silicone is still a good idea.
Newer pads have an aluminum strip on the back to prevent rattles, and squeaks.
David
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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer
rojo
Feb 13th, 01, 07:27 AM
Went back to the parts place and found some instructions in a brake hardware kit (looks like they could have provided the same with the pads). Anyway, it said to bend the small tabs on the outer pad down to within .005 of the caliper. Looking at the pad this makes sense. There are no detachable clips like there are on the inner pad. Does this sound right to you guys? David, is this the same thing you are saying?
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Robert
'69 getting better every day... (every pay day)
davidpozzi
Feb 13th, 01, 03:41 PM
Yes,
The pad "ears" are usually tough metal and not super easy to bend.
I like to put the whole thing together on the car and then pry up on the bottom of the pad on one side using the brake hub as a lever point. Then use a cross point hammer, or machinest hammer that has a chisel like edge on it.
I CAREFULLY smack the ears down while prying up on the bottom of the pad.
You can't get them too tight doing it this way.
Don't go nuts with the hammer, the cast iron caliper can break if you miss and swing too hard.
------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer
rojo
Feb 14th, 01, 01:58 AM
Thanks guys. The last one to put pads on this car just left them flopping in the wind. That's what threw me off track. What a noise they made. Anyway, problem solved now.
Thanks again.
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Robert
'69 getting better every day... (every pay day)
thedugan
Jul 9th, 05, 06:59 PM
I am having the same issue where the pads dont seem to get tight on the caliper. The metal tabs do not see like they want to bend. Is anyone using any kind of clips or retainers to position the outer pads.
davidpozzi
Jul 9th, 05, 07:30 PM
If you can't cinch them down on the car, then remove them and smack the ears down a bit and refit them.
pdq67
Jul 9th, 05, 07:32 PM
He, He!!
Silicone "bathtub caulk" works fine!!
Ring the back of the inner pad where the piston hits it and line the two outer casting clamp bosses...... Wait a schosh until it skins a bit and put everything back together......................
My second Son is ANAL about pad noises AND I keep telling him everything is FINE, but I still have to caulk both his fronts AND rears....
pdq67