guys,

i just redid my original 4 piston calipers (SS sleeves).

i have manual front disc brakes/rear drum. just like the General put them there in may 67.

now i have this monster big block. and stopping is a little scary sometimes.

what do i need to do? id like to keep manual brakes... do i need baers???

how much???

thanks guys

Do your brakes work OK at first, then fade?
How old are the rotors?

Baer makes the Eradispeed replacement rotors as a first step...
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

everything is new

brand new rotors, organic pads from ricks first gen (been thinking those might not be for hi po cars... just for those who want to restore...)

will the eradispeeds fit in my 14" rims?

(i know the baer calipers wont)

will i see a big improvement with different pads and rotors?

thanks david!!

I´d start with a rim change. Atleast 15" for starters. If you are handy, David Pozzi´s website is packed with great tips and info. If not... it´s probably gonna take some cash.
Baer is one way, but there are also several others.
My advice.. Be pickey!! Brakes are not to be taken litely.

Good luck

David.. Your First Gen Suspension Page has been a big help. Thanks.

I'd be highly suspicious of the pads. If everything is new, the system should work "okay." That said, realize that stock brake systems, in general, suck. Even some of the newer systems don't work as well as one would think, I had a GT Mustang years back (94) with four wheel disc's, and triple digit stops were terrifying. If you are stopping from high speed, or repeatedly from moderate speeds, your brakes will fade very quickly, and become extremely dangerous.

To make things worse, if you can get enough friction out of a stock system to work well, i.e. using some really good pads, you will probably go through rotors like crazy if you drive the car hard, from warpage. You mentioned 14" wheels, you're going to be limited by the rotor diameter, stock (~11") is as big as you'll be able to go.

I was never concerned about good brakes as a teenager, but now that I am more sensible, I won't have a car that I drive hard without extraordinary brakes. It's more fun with good binders too!

Jeff- We had this conversation last weekend… “But I want to keep it stock looking” and your going to go with some big old after market brakes…. Just upgrade to “the general” power disc brakes and maybe get an external vacuum canister to supply the brakes w/ enough vacuum.
Now if you go out and spend a bunch of money on brakes now you will never get that 5 speed or the rear end gears that you so desperately need. More time – More Money. One step at a time.
Mark (A.K.A. Z28 Mark)
P.S. Are you going to the Dark Side, Luke (or Jeff)? (Pro Touring) http://www.camaros.net/forum/tongue.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/eek.gif

You still haven't described exactly what is happening, so I can't comment further except to say you might try better pads.
Your rotors are new, so with "good" pads, they should be able to stop you from up to 100 mph or more on a single stop without fading. Repeated stops are where the aftermarket brakes are better than stock.
David

------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 09-17-2002).]

david,

sorry about that. i dont get fading. but all the experts are saying ditch those organic pads... im gonna go with the perf frictions for now and see how that goes.

if i do get fading, the rotors will help that...like you said.

Cris, im calling you buddy... as soon as you get to work!

jks - organic pads suck. You might as well put a set of drum brakes on the front end if you are going to use organic pads. I know this from experience.

I upgraded my car to disc brakes (all GM parts) several years ago and was never very happy with their stopping ability. I chalked it up to "old technology". Last spring, I replaced the old metering valve with a new style combo valve and replaced the front aned rear pads while I was at it. I used carbon metallic pads on the front this time. Man, what a difference! The only "old technology" holding me back was those brake pads.

Is your life worth saving a few bucks because you don't have to replace the rotors as often?

I put the perf friction carbon metalic pads on my GMC and it made a phenomenal difference. I'm sold on them.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).

gheatly and rick,

yeah, i have perf friction on my grand am (daily driver) and i love them.

im learning as i go (still a punk newbie), and the guy at ricks said organics are fine....

but i am gonna go with the perf friction pads soon... as soon as i figure out this carb/timing thing....

thanks guys

Need some good pads, but live too far away from a good performance auto parts store? Give these guys a call..... I have a feeling they'll have what your looking for.
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

Mark



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69 SS, ZZ430 Look-alike, Tremec TKO, Hotchkis Suspension

JKS~

Just to throw some info at you. I myself ran the stock 4-piston ft. brakes and the stock rear drums on my 67' for years. I have done a lot of hard street driving, autocrossing and quite a few track days at Willow and Sears. I take it some where you stated that you want to keep it stock looking? Well at the time I had that same vision...

I am going to full heartedly agree with Mean 69. I have done material development with 'Andy' Porterfield on this specific car, caliper and chassis. My reccomendation for a great pad is Andy's "R-4 S" compound. The R-4 pad used to be one of his best race compounds, but it wouldnt live on the street....well at least the rotors wouldnt. I ran a set for about 90 days of daily driving and took-off about 0.120 from the rotor surface (basically cut'em in half). So Andy made up the 'S' compound; S = Street. I will tell you that they need little to NO warm up and they stop even better as you get them warmed!! Although, you are going to have to clean the wheels more often, a lot more often.

I have gotten my 67's 60mph-0mph down to about 125 ft. with Andy's front pads and his rear semi.met shoes. That all sounds great, but you also have to take into consideration of the rest of my car. As for the brakes, I use a '78 WS6 power master cyl in a manual application; stock prop. and residual press valves; one pc.rotors; swapped the rear shoes front to rear (to change bias); using all of Andy's compounds.

As for the car....well its pretty much a full blown road race car.(now)

So I dont expect you to see the same results, but I have tried them all. I did a-lot of the brake stuff before I got the chassis set-up (current configuration)...and thats where I learned the most. For a stock set up you can not beat it.

If you need more info e-mail me. There is a lot of info that doesnt cost a thing, and it will help you stop without going away from the stock look....

Since all of this in the past few years, I have upped to 13" Baer brakes.....and stuffed them into a 16" Vintage Wheel Works '45'. I just got a digital camera, I should go take pictures.........duh


[This message has been edited by chacane67 (edited 09-19-2002).]

[This message has been edited by chacane67 (edited 09-19-2002).]

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