View Full Version : Differences in Mono/Multi leaf brackets
HwyStarJoe Mar 9th, 01, 04:36 AM Could someone please clarify something I saw in the Factory Assembly Manual and something I found on my rearend?
When I dropped the rear it had nasty, broken multileaf springs. When I removed them it was obvious that the lower brackets, that the shocks attach to, were bent. Sort of in a U shape. I knew something was wrong.
The Manual shows the parts/assembly for monoleaf and multileaf springs. Mono's have small brackets that attach right to a bracket on the axle tubes. Multi's attach with a big U-bolt over the axle tube, and what looked like different brackets.
My multileafs were held on with just a lower bracket bolted to the bracket on the axle tube. Hmmmm... could be why they were bent?
It seems that a previous owner threw in multileaf springs using monoleaf brackets!! Does this sound like what happened, or are there different ways to attach multileaf springs besides using the U-bolts over the axle tubes? I'm definitly staying with multileaf and will have to replace these brackets now.
Thanks in advance folks!
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Joe
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
'97 Blazer
'69 former basket-case
pdq67 Mar 9th, 01, 08:41 AM There is a difference in rearend spring perches between mono's and multi's. The mono's are 3/4" or so deep and the multi's are 2" deep.
Just put the multi's in and go buy four big "U-bolts" to fasten them in with. Some have said that the shock mounts are at different heights, so shocks might need to be slightly longer but ta me this would only come into play if you are playing "Dukes a Hazard" stuff.
And yes, the early springs were held in with little "T-headed" bolts that have been known ta break. While you are at it, you might want to run a welding bead around your rears spring perche and add a strap of steel to help re-inforce it.
The strap would go from the longest part of the perche up at an angle to the axle tube on the front and back. pdq67
davidpozzi Mar 9th, 01, 07:06 PM I think the multi leaf's used a thicker "spring plate" on the bottom and the shock mounted to it in single shear.
The single leaf used a thinner plate and it bolts on the same place but has double shear brackets on the shock mount.
I know the single leaf in 67 used just the T bolts, multi leaf used one U bolt and two T bolts per side.
I put multi leaf's on my 67, left the rubber pads out for more room, made a spacer plate to fit over the top of the spring to accept the spring through bolt head.
There is no pocket on the single leaf rear axle housing bracket.
My brackets are all cracked and bent. They are not up to the job.
David
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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer
HwyStarJoe Mar 10th, 01, 12:49 PM Thanks....
From what I can see on the 10-bolt I have, and what's in the manuals, if I want to stay with multi-leaf I'm going to have to have the upper brackets replaced on the axle tubes. They're not properly deep enough for multi. That's why the lower brackets are bent now.... torqued down over multi's which bent them up on the outer edges.
I guess I'm back to selling this 8.2" rear and finding an 8.5" 10 or good 12-bolt. Oh well, so much for saving money.
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Joe
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
'97 Blazer
'69 former basket-case
davidpozzi Mar 10th, 01, 01:14 PM I think if you remove the rubber pads, make a upper plate with hole to accept the center bolt top and reinforce your spring plates you will be OK.
Most other non-GM cars don't have a lower spring plate that contacts the upper pad.
You can buy new repro housing brackets for the multi leaf springs and new multi leaf spring plates too.
I have seen stock multi leaf setups with new rubber spring bushings on them, and the lower spring plate does not even touch the housing side of the spring bracket! There is a 1/4" gap between them.
There are three leaf replacement springs available for single leaf cars. Vette Brakes sells them.
Don't give up!
David
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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer
67stock Mar 10th, 01, 06:35 PM http://landrumspring.com/mono.html
Check these out. Parabolic mono's. Have no idea what parabolic means but they seem like a good mono. I'm gonna give em a try next paycheck.
pdq67 Mar 10th, 01, 09:24 PM The reason the stock mono leaf lower spring perches are bent is because they are weak ta start with!!!
David has a good idea about using a spacer plate that has a hole in it for the hex bolt head used with multi's, but you can replace the bolt with a carrige(sp.??) bolt and locate off the bottom plate just as well.
I worried about it 25 years ago or more and so drilled a hole in my rears top plate to take care of this when I changed from mono's to multi's.
Don't worry about bent bottom plates as long as you use "U-bolts".
Also the mono's measure 2.5" wide and 1" deep and multi's measure 2.75" wide and 2" deep. pdq67
HwyStarJoe Mar 12th, 01, 03:24 AM Thanks you guys....
If there's a way to do something, y'all have done it!
I'm not going to give up. Just going to replace the bent lower plates and follow your suggestions.
(printed and added to all the other great suggestions you all have!)
Did anyone here ever play with the idea of putting all the great ideas/tips/tricks/experiences together in a book? You'd all be famous!
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Joe
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
'97 Blazer
'69 former basket-case
RockyMtnRacer Mar 12th, 01, 05:36 AM Bent lower plates are a common problem. Some people beef them up by welding on angle iron or just cut new ones from thicker material. As David said - it doesn't matter if the lower plate doesn't contact the upper part of the bracket. In fact, I changed my spring perches to Chrysler perches (they're beefier) and there are no sides to them at all. The locating pins and the pressure of the u-bolts hold everything in place just fine. Just think of 4WD trucks with lift kits on top of the springs. It's all u-bolts and locating pins and they have much greater loads placed on them.
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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)
pdq67 Mar 12th, 01, 07:52 AM HwyStarJoe,
David's started the book, but it's electric!
Just wait til he gets done with his suspension and brake site. He will have everything under the sun in it.
LOL,LOL. pdq67
HwyStarJoe Mar 13th, 01, 04:16 AM I've seen it! He's done an awesome job with the site too!
That's my second 'bible' !
Thanks all!
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Joe
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
'97 Blazer
'69 former basket-case
davidpozzi Mar 13th, 01, 05:42 AM Someone is going there. I've put a web counter on the page and there are between 40 and 80 hits a day!
If I get too many Compuserve may start billing me! It's OK for now though.
I just keep piling stuff on there as I go...
David
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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer
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