Do you guys use a coil spring compressor? It seems the manual just talks about jacking the lower A-arm into place. I don't want to mess up the fresh paint on my A-arms.

What's the best procedure?

here's a question to those who know, since i recently put in new moog springs and they seem a bit too high.

Does the end of the spring with the 3 notches go to the upper pocket or the lower pocket?

i put mine in the upper, but maybe i was wrong in doing so? Any thoughts on this?

There is a small ~1/4" hole in the upper spring pocket. The cut edge of the tail of the spring should be visible in the hole if the spring is oriented correctly. I usualy put the flatter side "up". Many people try to put the tail down in the bottom of the lower control arm but it might not matter that much. I am confident with the upper pocket hole.

I have used the inner spring compressor before but I like the home made compressor better. Search the archives for several good threads on the subject.

-Mark.

My Moog 6308's didn't have "3 notches" nor was one end flatter than the other. I just made sure they were aligned the same in the pocket in the lower control arm.

So are you using a spring compressor or not?

I am preparing to go through the same thing and from what I have read and been told, you can remove the springs with a floor jack placed under the control arm. When going back together, it is necessary to use an internal coil spring compressor to compress the spring enough to ease the reassembly. As far as the ends of the springs and where they go and how they are oriented is new to me. Not sure what to tell you for this.

69rad, I've been reluctant to post this. It seems as though everyplace I do folks think that I am nuts. I don't use a spring comperssor, at all. BTDT, it doesn't work.

A spring compressor can be handy to hold the spring onto the lower A-arm when inserting a spring, nothing more.

When doing front springs a chain is a 'must-have' safety feature. To protect the paint run the chain through a bicycle inner tube.

The chain is used through the lower coils and then through the lower A-arm shock opening. This will keep the spring from flying around if anything slips.

Now, to R&R the spring the two inner A-arm pivot bolts are removed. I use a floor jack under the inner portion of the A-arm. This is the area between the pivot bolts.

(the shock needs to be removed along with the sway bar link. The upper & lower ball joints stay attached to the spindle. Unbolt and set aside the tire/wheel.)

Apply just enough, and a variable magnitude, of upward pressure to get the bolts out. Once one comes out slip a phillips head screwdriver in place of the bolt. This will act as another safety in case something slips. I actually pull the bolt out at the same time I insert the screwdriver into the bolts place.

Once both bolts are out carefully pull out the phillips screwdrivers. Slowly lower the floor jack. Replacement is basically the opposite.

Take your time, if something doesn't feel right, slow down and examine what is going on. I do the same with the phillips screwdrivers when inserting a spring. Once an A_arm pivot is in place push the screwdriver though the bolt opening. Then once both are in place follow up with the bolts.

Bob.

a67

I understand what you are saying, except i got nothing. Every thing is removed (upper and lower A-arms , coils and sway bar) at this point and I need to re-install.

Thanks for the input

I believe in your case, 69rad, you will have to use a spring compressor to decrease the length of the spring to install. You have no weight, ie., engine/trans, and body work to aid in installation.

Another route could be using 3/4 inch threaded rod and some 5/16 thick steel plate and compress the spring through the shock mount hole of the subframe. Just be sure to have the closed end of the spring, the ground flat end, in the subframe pocket and the open end, ie, the unground end, aligned to hit the pocket of the lower control arm when the arm is in working location.

Think carefully of the job, there is plenty of kinetic energy to go around when the spring is compressed. Hate to see it get expended in the wrong place.

Originally posted by 69rad:
a67

I understand what you are saying, except i got nothing. Every thing is removed (upper and lower A-arms , coils and sway bar) at this point and I need to re-install.

Thanks for the input You can mount the upper arm to the sub-frame then assemble the upper & lower arms to the spindle.

Then install the springs and lower a-arm pivot bolts.


If it as Everett mentions and there isn't an engine then this method won't work.

Bob.

I used a spring compressor.... It still was tough and most likely yourgonna tear your paint up. Good Luck

Hold on, Everett#2390

you mis-understood me.
I've got something (engine, fenders, trans hood etc.) But I have upper and lowere A-arms and sway bar removed.

Then I would suggest using a67's method of install. I guess I read too much into your statement.

All the more reason I need to stay overnight at a Holiday Inn Express.

I am a little scared, I just put 2" lower hotchkis springs in mine and didn't need to compress anything (to my surprise), and there is no motor in the car for weight either. I think it's going to be really low when I get the B.B. back in.

just did that last night,no motor with hotchkis springs just used a floor jack. no problem g west uppers stock lowers, seat the spring jack it up mike

Hotchkis are quite a bit shorter in height than stock. You get a 2" drop however the spring rate is way higher so the Hotchkis are more than 2" shorter than stock I would guess at least 4". I guess thats why they are easy to install.

Why not be real safe, spend 20-30 bucks take them to a spring shop and have them banded. Then all you have to do is cut the bands when everything is bolted back together. Did this on a chevelle I restored and it worked out great. Plan on doing the same for the Camaro.

when i replaced my coil springs i went and bought 3/4" all thread saome nuts and made two flat ends(one for the lower and upper) and ran the arms together like that. It took about 10 minutes to do.

My springs also have 3 notches at the very end of one side of the coil.

ANy preference on whether the notches go up or down?