I put my brake M/C push rod up sooo good that I can't find it now??? I hate it when I do that!!!!!!
What is the shaft diameter and thread size as well as length to the locknut from the rounded tipped end on a stock non-power drum brake car??
I need to make a shorter one for my new M/C...
Sorry for all the trouble and thx. in advance..
Oct 13th, 03, 02:59 PM
I've got one from a 69 I can measure, the threads are 3/8" NF, I'll have to check the length. Does your MC have a shallow hole?
Oct 13th, 03, 03:15 PM
Yes, that's why I'm making the cap to keep the short push rod from falling out in case the M/C's piston hangs up..
I can picture my p/r with it's jamb nut still on it in my head but I will be darned if I can think of where I put it????
Oct 13th, 03, 04:17 PM
Isn't the shallow hole master cyl for power brakes? The deep hole is for manual brakes and keeps the push rod from falling out.
Oct 13th, 03, 05:12 PM
Yes Mr. C,
That's why I'm making an endcap so the short p/r will fit through it and if something happen's, it can't fall out of position.
I bought a dark gray glue-on 1.25" dia. PVC pipe cap and was going to modify it BUT I just measured my firewall M/C snout hole and the plastic pipe cap's walls are too thick to fit through the hole??
So I am going to see if a 1.25" copper pipe cap will fit this Friday when I'm off work. I will have to go to a Plumbing Supply outfit for it b/c I don't think the hardware place's stock copper pipe that big??
Oct 13th, 03, 05:53 PM
Second gen's use a cap that would be ideal if you can find one. It won't fit over an aluminum MC though, they are too large.
Oct 13th, 03, 06:08 PM
I saw it David but I don't know where there even is a yard that would allow me to look for one??
I think I even contacted Cardone and asked if they might have a discarded one and I don't even think they knew what I was talking about..
I think I have it figured out how to fab. one if I can't buy a 1.25" copper pipe sweat-on cap..
Oct 13th, 03, 06:27 PM
My 69 pushrod is 7" long from MC end to clevis pin. The threaded rod is screwed in a half inch into the clevis, the rod part is 5.5" long by itself.
I have a deep MC and shallow MC, the difference between them is 1.350".
Oct 14th, 03, 02:11 AM
Thx David, that's about what I am coming up with by eyeballing my tape into the f/w to the end of the clevis.
I am going to pick up a bolt and start ta whittling out a new shorter p/r tomorrow b/c I have to put brakes on my son's car and go to my men's grup at church.
I know my old p/r will turn up but boy it frustrates me to put something up and then can't find where I put it for safe-keeping!!
Of course my other son decided to move my tools from one tool box to another tool boxe for me so I bet he moved where I had it????
Oct 14th, 03, 10:17 AM
I'd use a grade 8 bolt for the rod. Don't use allthread, it may buckle at the time you most need it! :eek:
I hate misplacing things. Mary and I cleaned out my old garage for her to work on her 73RS. She'd ask "what's this?" and I'd launch into a big story about the part and she was just amazed!
Like a funny long rubber band that was hanging on a nail. I'd hit a deer with my 67 Camaro one night in the early 70's, and the fender cut the rubber band off the front tire! I thought that was wierd and just kept it.
Careful placing blame on others for the missing part. If it wasn't him after all, you are gonna have to apologize. :D
Oct 14th, 03, 04:07 PM
Yes, I am going to get a Grade-8 bolt and yes, I realize I probably will find it about a week after I get my M/C on...
I still have to get all my stuff in my roll-around stacked toolbox so I bet it will turn up as things start finding their original spots..
Oct 15th, 03, 02:42 AM
Paul, it's been a while since it was posted on pro-touring.com but others have made a simple 'z-bar' bracket that bolted to the inside of the firewall and kept the rod from every falling out. Looked quite simple to fab and was effective. The rod passed through a hole in the bracket.
Oct 15th, 03, 08:12 AM
I figured either making a can with two 90 degree tab's that would fit around the M/C's end and then the tab's would install on the two mounting bolts between it and the firewall or else like you are talking about.
Thanks for reminding me..
Oct 17th, 03, 03:06 PM
I went to a local Industrial Supply House this afternoon and picked up a 1.5" copper pipe sweat-on end cap to make my M/C short push rod retainer out of. (The copper cap I got is made by NIBCO).
It fits the firewall hole and the O.D. of the M/C almost perfectly!!! I figure I can shorten it so that it just fits the M/C snout and then make an oval hole in it's end and then pein it slightly onto the M/C dust boot groove and be done with it...
And I'm gonna double check it being fastened OK too!!
Oct 17th, 03, 05:25 PM
The big M/C, copper cap P/R retainer and new short P/R are on my car and everything went fine!
The only thing that I am totally not sure of is if I have the new p/r the right length with say .030" clearance?? I think I do but just eye-balling it makes me wonder???
I just drilled a 9/16" round hole in the cap and it is great after crawling up under the steering wheel and looking at it!!! There is NO way the P/R can drop down!!
Oct 18th, 03, 02:55 AM
Nice solution. Can't wait for the 'firing up' report.