just swapped over to power steering!! Man what a difference!! The old manual box had at least three inches of play. I got a PS gear box out of a 75 Omega. I looked all day at the bone yard for a box that was not wet and did not have to much play. I think I lucked out becasue this box feels like new. 2 1/2 - 3 turns lock to lock. I had to divit my headers. There is just something wrong with taking a big hammer to a set of $350 ceramic coated headers.....I was careful and used two leather work gloves at the hammer point on the tube so as not to damage the coating. I have to get familiar with my car again...it is that different. Why didn't I do this sooner?
OK, my question, now that I swapped over; My turning radius is less. Is this common? I am not really complaining because now my tires dont rub against the frame. Has anyone else noticed this? graemlins/hurray.gif

Glad the conversion worked out for you and a new rag-joint alone will do wonders for removing slop at the steering wheel by itself too!

pdq67

Got to thinking...since I changed to PS and had to change the pitman arm, should I need another front end alignment?

The only possible reason I can think of is if the pitman arm is a different length, it "might" affect the toe. Otherwise not really any reason except to check it. I used to do checks for $20 at the shop. Adjustments cost more.

I agree, check the toe in, if the steering linkage height changed at all, the toe will be affected.

I know the geometry has had to change. Is the pivot point from a manual box to a power box in a different location? I think it might be different, and the length of the pitman arm is different too. I think it will be toe-in also. Shorter pitman will bring the tires in. I will run it out to the shop Monday and reset it. Glad we are all on the same page.
David, when I eventualy switch over to disc brakes will the geometry change again or are the spindles the same?
Scott, nice Fire chicken. I had a 67 convt, 326 PG with air, powered discs and power top. Wish I still had it.

You can do front disc conversions using both the drum and disc spindles so no, a disc conversion won't change anything per say, except that depending on hubs, your track width will widen twice the thickness of the disc's center thickness.

And FWIW, drum hubs create about 5/8" x 2 narrower a track less disc thicknesses then do two-piece hubs which are like one piece disc/hubs with the rotor removed in width increase..

In other words, adding two piece hubs or one piece rotor/hubs with the rotor removed and disc's will increase overall front track width like 1.75" or so over a stock drum brake equipped frontend!! And only about 1.25" more if you put disc's on drum hubs instead.

And again, FWIW, the dimension in wheel mount offset between the drum hub and both the two-piece hub and a one piece disc/hub with the disc removed is called "Joe". b/c Joe here on the Boards first called it that!! Joe who, I forget his name but I bet you can find it over on the team Chevelle Board easily..

The reason I mention the "Joe" dimension is b/c it gets important when you try to install non-stock big disc brake conversions b/c you need to have enough rotor/caliper/spindle mount measurement so everything fits!!! AND the calipers center to the rotor!!

And yes, I've been through this stuff many times trying to figure out my, "pdqCBB", 13" front disc setup that's on my car now finally!!

Boy, did I get windy again or not... He, He!!!

pdq67

Gotcha PDQ. I just found my front brake setup AND a TA 8.5 rear with discs that has been shortned and the perches relocated. Posi with 3.50 gears, just what I am looking for. The front brakes are 11 inch and the rear are whatever came on the 81 trans am. The only thing I have to come up with is a booster and master cylinder. He just took it off of his 67 that he put a willwood setup on with a 12 bolt rear. I will wait until after I do the brake swap to do the alignment. Its winter and the car isnt going any where soon.

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