Well, Its is nice to be back. I have been away from this forum so long I forgot my username and had to come up with a new one.

I have ordered Baer Tracks for the front and Baer touring for the rear of my 67.

Decided to tear the old stuff off today. (new stuff will be here Wednesday)

Anyway, I took the front apart and then went to work on the back.

Got the drum and pads, spring etc. off. How does the Baer kit bolt on?

Do I need to take off the old backing plate, whick means pulling the axle. Not a big deal, but I'm just trying to figure out what I need to get out of the way.

And If I do have to pull the axle, can I go ahead and do it, take everything off, and reinstall. I only want to do it once.

Thanks for any help,
and it's great to be back,

The backing plates have to go, and the new brackets will be lots easier to bolt on if the axles don't go back in yet.

Thanks, think I ill wait till everything gets here.

It's been years since I have pullled C clips.

But it should come bace to me.

peice o cake... unscrew the bolt, tap out the pin, push the axles in, they'll fall right out...lol

Yeah, went ahead and did it today.

Once I saw it, it all came back to me.

Does anyone know the torque setting on the little bolt that holds the pin in place.

Torque the the bolt till the lock washer is flat, then an additional ONE flat of the hex of the bolt.

Double check the o.d. of the axle flanges to make sure that the rotors seat correctly before you re-install the axles. Many of the Baer rear kits require you to have the flanges turned down a bit as they're larger than the matching surface on the rotor.

Jody

There was not a lock washer on my bolt, but I will be sure to add one going back, although it's been like that for years without any trouble.

Thanks for the tip on checking the flanges with the baer brakes.

Luckily, I have access to a full machine shop at work it needed.

One last question, I have installed new axle bearings and have the seals.

Do I stop the seals when they are flat with the housing, or do I drive them in al the way.

Thanks again for all the help.

Adding a lock washer will depend upon the space/clearance provided by the carrier. Usually, the washer goes on before the threads are rolled onto the screw shank, thus, the washer is of a smaller diameter to fit in the recess provided.

A standard size washer may be too big to fit in the recess. But, I seem to remember there was always a lockwasher on this lock screw.

You could always buy a new lock screw from the dealer, comes wth lockwasher...

As for the seal depth, flush is standard. But, check the axles where the seal rides. If the axle has a groove worn into it from the seal lip, then the new seal can be driven in a little further to 'seal' on an original surface of the axle.