OK, I have been all over the internet searching for info related to Guldstrand Mod for 1st gen Camaros. Dave Pozzi has a great website with good info. I like the idea of actually removing the A-frame support, triming 3/4" off amd re-attaching the gusset shifted 1/2" to the rear. My question is whats the easiest way to do this? http://www.camaros.net/forum/confused.gif I spent most of the day with an angle grinder trying to grind off the welds but this is quite exhausting. I don't have a cutting torch, but can rent one for $40. Also once I get it off any tips on re-attaching with proper measurements? Any ideas on a jig to hold the gusset in place? Should I arc or mig weld the gusset back in place? Too late to just drill the holes since 1/2 the welds are gone. Besides I did'nt like the idea of hacking off the corners and trimming shims! Thanks in advance for the help!

Bhret

If you don't own one, try to borrow or rent a "Sawzall". It uses big metal cutting jig saw blades and should really help. pdq67

You really need a torch or plasma torch. There isn't room for a sawzall, and you need to trim the bottom of the mount when you get it cut off.

I marked mine with a center punch on all sides in places the marks wouldn't get ground off. I punched both the mount and frame rails. Then punched where I thought it should wind up before cutting it off.

It would be really nice to make a jig with the old holes and the new holes by using the template. Then cut the mount off and move it to the new holes.
You can tack weld the jig to the frame.

I got lazy and just moved them using my punch marks for reference.
The shock mount needs to be tweaked too.

I'd rent the torch.
I used a 250 amp mig welder.
I think you'd need a 150 amp or at least 130 amp mig to do it.
Make shure the weld will hold.

If you are going to use a flux core mig, A stick arc is just as good.
If you use a stick welder use a 7018 rod.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 12-16-2000).]

Thanks for the info David. I took your template off your webpage, enlarged it to the right proportions and compiled a drawing in my CAD system to document what I'm about to do. Unfortunately I can't figure out a way to get the drawing into this forum. I am goint to E-mail you the drawing and perhaps you can look at it and tell me if I'm on the right track? The only difference I see is the actual offset to the rear ends up being closer to 1/4" than 1/2". Would moving it 1/2" actually improve the castor? I can see where it would help in relocating the shock hole by not breaking into the old location and creating a slot! Probably not that big of an issue?

Thanks,
Bhret

BhretG,
I did the Guldstrand mod first by using the template.
I was running 5 degrees of caster for autocross and still had a stack of shims on the rear bolt.
This time around I've moved the whole mount.
I don't have it together so I dont know how it will work.
You might want to offset to the rear less than the half inch for street use.

I now have the capability to make a PDF file of the template, but things can still get off when printing.
The .jpg file on my page is A fixed width, and when I print it out from my computer it comes out very close to correct.
I have it in a drafting program and could post it in that form but you still might have a problem with a size error in printing it.

I use a Mac and will probably have trouble reading a Windows drafting file, unless it is saved in a DXF format.
Can Windows computers read DXF format if I post that version on my page?
David


------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 12-17-2000).]

Yes Dave, I can read a DXF file into my CAD program. Also, the file I sent you is a bitmap file, hopefully you can read it. If not, let me know I will send you a .DXF file of my drawing. By the way PDQ67's suggestion of using a sawsall worked great! http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif I got one side off in about 1/2 hour a little grinding and I'll be ready to re-weld one back in. Off to the store to by some 7018 rod and more grinding disks.

I can't believe I still have christmas shopping to do, Are my priorities right or what?

Bhret

BhretG,

Harbour Freight Tool has a whole bunch of reasonably priced stuff. BUT don't get carried away because it's real hard convincing the wife/girlfriend that she really can straighten her hair using a torch to heat her straigthening iron!!! Or, whatever. LOL. pdq67

After grinding and cutting and more grinding and trimming... I finally was able to get one side of the Guldstrand mod on the car and tacked in. I chose to do the relocation versus the drilling of new holes. This leads to few more questions. Since the geometry of the mod lowers the pivot point making the upper A-arm esentially longer, does it make sense to position the gusset slightly inboard to compensate for the additional length therefore eliminating gobs of shims? Will there be an interference problem with the headers or other unforseens? Also what do you do with the bumpstop under the lower A-arm it seems that this will hit more frequently than before.. or am I just imaging things? Its hard to get a reality picture now that the front end is apart.

Bhret

I wouldn't worry about moving in the bracket. The amount of shims is not a lot and you might need the adjustment room.

The bump stop under the upper A frame is not a problem.
Most Camaros are lowered from stock height, and there is more room under the bump stop than stock when you do that.
David

------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

Hello Friends I just wanted to say how good example this converstion between Brethg and David Pozzi is about the professional level of tru friendship and will to help!

This way all of us can enjoy 100 % this good hobby! Seeson greeting to both of you!

Ps I made a template from steel wich had both of the upper a-arm mounting holes(stock and guldstrand) then bolted it on stock holes and tachwelded it to frame,unbolt the bolts ,then i grind the plate of and shortened it to guldstrand holes and bolted it to template and rewelded,and finally remowed the template,lots of work but now iam sure its in right position.

Joni,
That's a very good suggestion.
Thanks.

I was thinking that the Guldstrand template was made to redrill the holes in the factory mount and there are limits to how far toward the rear of the car you can drill the holes and still fit the bolt in there.

I found that when running 4 degrees or more of postitive caster for autocross, there were a lot of shims on the rear bolt. So I moved my mount a half inch rearward this time.

I had to re construct the upper holes of my mount and cut it off and re weld it to the frame. I managed to leave more of my upper holes on the frame because I used a set of eccentric Guldstrand steel bushings on the upper A frame to position the A frame higher to clear the mount. But, I still had to cut off a lot of the upper mount.

I just saw a show on TV where they upgraded an early Mustang.
They have what is called a "Shelby position" of the upper A frame holes. It looks like they lowered the upper mount an inch or more. It looks really easy, as there is a flat surface on the inside of the wheelwell to drill out. They have to adjust the alignment of the kit by turning a couple of heim joints. It is also very easy to convert to coil over shocks with adjusters and tubular A frames. The frame is not in the way like our cars have.

joni, It's been very nice here in the suspension section, a very nice bunch of people learning from and helping each other. The way I have learned all that I have is keeping an open mind, learning from others, and trying things out myself.

Thanks, David

------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 12-19-2000).]

Thanks to Dave, PDQ67 and Joni for all the help. I have one side on now and it looks great. I'm not much of an arc welder but tacked it in place and had a friend mig weld the rest. Can't wait to get the other side done and button her up. I'm hoping to see a dramatic improvement over the stock setup. Now I'll be pondering on the steering setup.. which will lead to a new round of questions I'm sure! Thanks again and hope all of you have a great/safe Christmas and New Year.

Bhret

Cool! http://www.camaros.net/forum/cool.gif

Thank you David and Bhretg !!

Merry Chritmas all of you!!!

Joni