Will a brake booster and master cylinder from a 3rd gen work on my 69 RS? I want to do this swap to get rid of that metal(rust) and to make it look a little different from all the other cars around at the car shows. If anybody has done it please let me know. I think I saw it a couple of years ago in a auto mag(HotRod,CarCraft,or CHP) but can't remember which one. If anybody can remember please add that to your response.

Thanks

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69 RS Camaro (383,350t,12-bolt w/3.73s)
79 WS6 Trans Am (406SBC,factory 4-spd,3.23 posi)
87 GTA Pace Car Clone (350TPI,700r4,140k miles)
97 Bonneville SSE 40th Anniv. (3800 V-6, Power Everything, The little woman's car)

For whatever it's worth, the "Twister" used a booster from a '96 Buick Regal, a master cylinder from a '97 Camaro and a fluid reservoir from a '97 Lumina. The booster put the master cylinder parallel to the ground, so the fluid reservoir needed to be level too-the Camaro reservoir is mad to sit at an angle. I don't know if it was a straight bolt-on. Check out www.detroitspeed.com (http://www.detroitspeed.com) for more info and try sending them an e-mail, they have been pretty good about replying though it does take a while sometimes.

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Bret Copsey
'68 Camaro base coupe
'92 Caprice wagon
'98 Malibu

I will have to look under the hood of my '87 formula and then find the magazine article...I know i've got it somewhere. The article suggested useing a '83-'87 Monte Carlo booster and master cylinder. It requires taking an original first gen booster cutting off the bracket that holds it to the firewall, and mounting it to the new booster...then you have to lengthen the rod that goes to your brake pedal. thats it. I think the 3rd gen settup will work, but I'll check my Formula and get back to you soon.

I read the same article as Radio Joe. It came out in 96 or 97. I obtained a booster/master cylinder from a salvage yard from one of the Monte Carlo cousins and attached the bracket from the back of my stock booster. It only required grinding off the stock rivets and then grinding holes out a little on the bracket to bolt it to the new booster. The new booster bolted directly to the firewall on the newer car which was already tilted. Our firewalls aren't tilted, so the bracket is needed to tilt the booster. The pushrod on the new booster must be cut and threaded, and the Camaro rod treaded on with a short female threaded coupler.

(Using a different reservoir would eleminate the need to use the bracket, but I think would require removing the studs that protrude from the firewall on the Camaro and putting the nuts on the inside of the firewall on the booster's studs.)

But, I called one of the aftermarket brake companies with a question (in 1997), and they talked me out of trying it. I realize now they probably just didn't want me to create something they could sell me :~). Anyway, they said something about the master cylinder being a quick takeup, designed for retracting, zero friction, calipers and that it wouldn't work well with my stock calipers, and that mixing brake parts was dangerous.

I couldn't find the article again to recheck it and didn't know who else to check with, so I just used stock stuff. (I wish this board had been around then.)

Radio Joe, if you find the article, please post the specifics here. Also, I remember that issue having several other interesting how to's in that section, but could never find my copy. Can you mention what those were, and what mag and issue?

I still have the setup I created and want to try it in the near future when I upgrade to larger brakes, and maybe rear disc.

Any experts have thought on this? What's the best master to use for performance and feel?

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Ray

68 SS Convertible
Corvette(77) Yellow
383 DFI Fuel Injection
on MiniRamII intake
700R4, 3.31 12bolt Posi
Guildstrand Mod
AGR 12:1 power steering

Okay cats heres the mag:
CAR CRAFT July 1996 page 28
I still haven't gotten to look at the formula yet, but atleast I found the article. The story in the mag is 101 tech tips and there is alot of good stuff in it depending on what you're building. If you can't find a back issue, e-mail me at my home e-mail and I'll scan it and e-mail it to you. Enjoy!!!!

OK looks like that unless I order a complete upgrade from a reputable dealer, I will leave the stock pieces in place. Thanks for all the replies and opinions. I really appreciate it. Thanks

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69 RS Camaro (383,350t,12-bolt w/3.73s)
79 WS6 Trans Am (406SBC,factory 4-spd,3.23 posi)
87 GTA Pace Car Clone (350TPI,700r4,140k miles)
97 Bonneville SSE 40th Anniv. (3800 V-6, Power Everything, The little woman's car)

The stock cast iron master cyl weighs 10 lbs.
You might save 6 or 7 lbs by going to the newer master cyl. The boosters are about even.
The newer masters might fit the older boosters, I don't know.

If you change booster angle to flat, you will have to connect to the upper manual brake hole on the pedal which will increase the pedal travel needed unless you go to a bigger bore on the master cyl.

Camaro manual 1"
Camaro power 1 1/8"
Chevy truck 1 1/4" ? (depends on truck weight and brake option)

Just guessing, a chevy pickup master cyl would be a better choice, the bore is bigger and reservoir is flat.

Most of these are the quick take up type which have a valve in the port from reservoir and bore. These take about 5 minutes to refill the master cyl bore after one pump of the pedal when bleeding. It will take a LONG time to bleed the system.
A pressure bleeder is faster but will still take a while compared to a normal system.
The quick take up master does have a higher pedal feel.

There might be a similar master that doesn't have the quick take up feature, I don't know the application though.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

wildkatz
davidpozzi
On the same page in the same mag that I mentioned earlier in this post there is another article which says Use late boosters with late master cylinders and vice-versa. apparently there is a difference in the rubber cap that cover different diameter holes in the respectve power booster that corresponds to the different master cylinder seats.

David (or anyone else),

What problems arise from using a quick takeup master with normal calipers?

Are the newer 2 piston aluminum calipers everyone is using designed for a quick takeup master?

Ray

In case anyone still wondered, I finally looked at the booster and Mastercylinder in my 87 firebird and it seems the same as the Monte Carlo one so I would have to say you could use either onewith the above mods.

I used the brake booster and master cylinder off a 85 Camaro Z28. I took the brackets off the 67 Camaro booster and welded them to the 85 Camaro booster. Before you can do this you will have to cut the brackets off the third gen. booster because they are riveted on. After that I mounted the booster to the fire wall. The booster rod lacks a few inches from connecting to the upper power brake hole on the brake petal. I plan on taking a high speed cutter and cutting a slot on each side but not all the way and bending the bracket until the rod aligns with the proper hole, then welding the slots and apply a nice coat of paint.

Just visiting from your sister site Chevelles.com. Anyways, I have performed this swap on my 70 Chevelle and I love it. You can see the discussion of it here (my replies are near the bottom): http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum7/HTML/001970.html

If you have any questions, email me!



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Brian

1970 Chevelle Malibu
355 ci with
Holley Projection-4
Global West A-Arms

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