Just got my car back on the road after a 5 months, and it runs great but it does not want to stop. I redid the brake lines while I had it apart. I bench blead the m/c and borrowed a bleeding mechine that sucks the air/ fluid out of the system. The obvious thing would to blead the brakes again and see if that helps. Are there any other things that I should look for?

When I step on the brakes, the break light comes on and goes off when I let off the pedel.

I have Stainless Steel disc brake system in the front and stock drums in the rear and it stopped fine before the rebuild.

Dan.

Try manually bleeding the system. did you have the Stainless steel brakes on before the rebuild?
David

Yes David, I did and they worked fine. I moved the distribution block to the stock position under the m/c. Someone had put it hanging out to the side previously. I also installed a new Comp 262 cam. The Comp guys said I should have plenty of vac, but I don't have a gauge and can't check it. If bleading does not work I'll buy a gauge.

I should mention that the pedel is hard.

Dan.

If the pedal is high and hard, it sounds like a low vaccum problem.
What brake pads do you have?

Check your vaccum at idle and make sure the check valve on the brake booster is working. It should retain vaccum even after a couple of hours of sitting parked.
There should be enough vac to apply the brakes twice with engine off.
David

I'm not sure what pads I have.

I called Comp this morning and they said that cam should not have a problem with vac at all. I had booster problems before with SSBC and they replaced it , I wonder if this one has gone bad also. I'm gonna buy a vac gauge on the way home and check it.

What is the best way to test the booster? Should I just run the motor for a minute and pull of a vac line?

Does a hard pedel eliminate the need to blead the brakes?

If it turns out to be the booster can I get one locally at NAPA or somewhere like that?

Dan.

like david said, if the pedal is hard AND high, it sounds like a vacuum/booster problem.

but that will not make the light come on. you may have two problems. the light will come on if there is a difference in pressure in the distribution block. this block has the capability of locking off pressure to one axle if there is a leak in the system. this would leave the pedal high, but make the light come on. often it just lets the pressure thru, and causes a low pedal with a light, but it can do either. i would bleed the brakes again like david said, and check for leaks. deal with that light first, then move on to the hard pedal problem.

often if the light is coming on you will feel a slight 'thump' in the pedal just as the light comes on.

you can test the booster with a vacuum pump, or you can pump the pedal a few times and then start the car. the pedal should drop slightly. with the car off and the pedal pumped, it should be very high. once you have determined if the booster works, you can shut off the car with your foot on the brake, if the pedal rises by itself under your foot, there is a leak in the booster, or a bad check valve.

Well, you guys nailed it... I found a small vac leak and blead the brakes, which much to my suprise did have some air in them and I have great brakes again.
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Thanks,
Dan.

Ain't it great when a solution to a brake problem comes together! Nothing more nerve racking than a brake problem.

Congrats it worked out.