Just wanted to get some opinions on something I'm kicking around. I plan to run a Ford 9" from a Lincoln Mark IV on my '68, and it is currently 63" wide from disc to disc. I have seen where people running 17x11 rear wheels are running a rear end 57" wide and using 5.5" of backspacing.

I just wonder how 8.5" bs would look keeping in mind the fronts will be 17x8 with 5.5 bs. This would keep the total percentage of backspacing/wheel width nearly the same, and save me some $$$ by not having to have my rear narrowed.

Thoughts?

As you said, the front and rear wheels would look identical from the outside. My question is are you mini-tubbing the car? What size tire are you planning on running on that wheel?

I think it will look similar to the late model cars with high positive offset wheels.

Yes, I will be mini tubbing and running 315/35/17. I wouldn't mind 335/30/17 or 335/30/18 if the increase in wheel cost wasn't so dramatic for 13" wide rims.

Right now looks like fronts will be 255/40/17 on 17x8. I'm going to do my best to see what it will take to run 17x9.5 275/40/17 on the front, but that will depend upon how much messaging will be needed on the wheel well and subframe (probably not worth it).

I think the first area to hit with the 275's is the rear of the inner wheelwell. I know on the Red Witch Mark cut the inner side of the inner wheelwells out and left the part that shows in the engine compartment there. Unfortunately that leaves no protection on the underside of the front fenders and when a nut fell off bolt holding the wheelwells on it hit the tire and bounced up and dented the top of the fender.

I'm using a 265/-18 on the front of my 69 and am going to see about modding the inner wheelwell to work.

Jody

Jody, glad you have some info on the 275's in front!! I'm going to take some measurements and see what I need to do, but I'm thinking areas of concern would be as mentioned the inner fender, notching the frame and interference with the upper control arms. Got any thoughts on that?
I'm going to be running the shortest steering arms and a power box from a 90ish Trans Am.
(sorry to take my post off topic LOL)

Bret, why not a 12" wheel for the 335/30/18s?

Bret,

The Red Witch has a stock subframe and stock a-arms with the mods to the inner wheelwell as I mentioned above. I believe he used a 17X9" wheel and it has a 275/40 front tire. The only change was he used his own spindle which may have affected the clearance some.

I just picked up my 18X9" Fikse's with 265-18 KD's for the front set up and 18X12" with 345/30-18 DR's for the rear. I also have a set of 275's and 335's Michelin Pilots. I am going to do everything possible to get the 265's on the front and not lose the inner wheelwell. I'm running DSE's upper a-arms and their coil-over kit.

Jody

Fikse's... Doing it with style!! FM5 or FM10? OR maybe the Profil 5S? I LOVE that wheel.

Well, I'm taking my post off topic, but the info is great!!

69protouring:
I'm not ready to spend upwards of $1000 per wheel, and all I have seen available bigger than 17x11 or 18x10 causes a HUGE price increase. I don't know that 335's would work on an 11" rim either...
What do you think about the 8.5" bs? Look ok?

Jody:
As for the front end, do you think it would be possible to do a mini-tub on the inner fenders? I also think I remember something mentioned in an article on the buildup of the Red Witch about Mark pie cutting the upper control arm-don't know if that was for clearance or geometry?

These are the FM5's like the Mule. I got them CHEAP or I would never have bought them. Awesome wheels but $1200. each is a little rich for my blood!

Bret,

Don't remember him modding the a-arm; they looked stock to me, but that doesn't mean he didn't! The only part of the inner fender that seems to hit is right at the back side. I'm going to try to mod just that section and still retain the complete inner wheelwell protection.

Jody

Camco,
What rearend setup are you running for those 12" rears?? I love the looks of the modern tire/rim setups on the old muscle cars. I plan on running 17x10 on front and 17x12 on back in the future on my car. Any info is appreciated.

Thanks.

Kimmer

Hey Brett,

Because you asked for opinions, I wouldn't run that much backspace. I personally don't like positive offset wheels on firstgens. I think it hides the size of the tire and that dish wheel just does it for me.

Of course, I don't want to offend anyone, but that's just my taste smile.gif

I'm debating similar issues right now on my 67. Minitub is done...do I want 17 or 18's in the rear? I have a stock 12 bolt posi...should I narrow it or sell it to "restorer" and build a 9 inch? Decisions, decisions.

If you really don't LOVE that positive offset look though, I would not do it. Narrowing a rear, especially a nine inch, isn't that expensive. (I'm guessing $500 tops) I wouldn't spend $1500 to $2000 on wheel and tires and not get exactly what you want. Wheels are one of the most important features of a car...don't skimp.

By the way, I hear you about the 18x12 wheel prices. But since my car has a long way to go before it hits the road, I'm tempted to by a couple from Tirerack for $139! By the time I'm ready to mount them, 18x12's might be cheap!

Jason

Kimmer,

I haven't decided for sure between a 12 bolt with 9" housing ends, or a Currie 9" set-up. I do know it will have 9" ends as the brakes I ordered are set-up for that. It will also have to be narrower than a stock rear-end as the 18X12's I have are a fairly deep dish, which I like the look of better.

Jody

Bret,
Stilow pie cut the spindle, not the A arm, I'm sure about that.

I re-checked the rear housing and it turns out I will have to narrow some no matter what because the pinion center is offset 1/2" too much. I think going with 5-6" bs would probably be optimal.

Jason, I personally would sell the 12 bolt rather than narrow it.

Thanks for the input guys! graemlins/beers.gif