I just installed a clutch/brake assy on my factory auto bracket. The brake pedal seems really high compared to the auto brake pedal. The brake will stick out further than the clutch pedal will when I get that part hooked up. The pedal shaft butts up to the rubber stopper in the same place that the auto brake did it just seems odd. Also before I changed it out I would have to pump the brakes once to get a full pedal (drums) are the pedal would go to the floor (but pressure at the floor just more after one pump) now I couldn't push the pedal to the floor for nothing. I don't mind the pedal catching so soon I just want to know what is normal on the pedal postion and if I need to fix the pedal pressure postion.

Thanks
Shane

Power or manual brakes?
What year Camaro?
Did you change anything else, like the master cylinder or booster?
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

Manual, 1968, the only thing I did was the pedals.

Shane

I have heard that 69 brake pedal is different than 68 if you put 67 or 68 pedal in a 69 you have to heat and bend it to make it the same reach as the auto pedal. but i dont have first hand knowledge can anybody verify this ?....Mike

I heated the pedal and bent it to resemble the auto pedal. Looks great and like factory.

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Jay
69 SS-350 4-speed
Hotchkis suspension

Shane

It seems to me that there are 2 different mounting holes for the brake pedal. If it's mounted in the wrong hole, the pedal sits higher than the cluth pedal. It's been many years since I changed mine out, so I may have brain fade, but I seem to remember 2 different holes in the brake pedal shaft or the mounting bracket... I'll try and take a peek at mine and let you know what I find. Good luck and let us know what you come up with.

Mark

I took a look at the origanl bracket the the pedals came on and my auto bracket and there is just one place for the pedals to mount to but there is 2 spots on the brake pedal shaft for the rod. I have it in the top hole which is the one that had wear on it and was the one that my auto pedal had it in. Also the pedals where suppost to have come out of the same year camaro (68). What even seems odder (if thats a word) is that the pedal sits back against the place that the auto pedal did but I still had to adjust out the switch to reach the rod. I dont mind heating it and bending it or even tring to cut the auto pedal to match and reinstalling it but the brakes don't require as much pedal to stop as before. Are that could just be because its higher but it does seem to get stiffer quicker than before. Could leting the rod push further out cause this problem and if so would releasing the pressure off the brakes and forceing the rod all the way back make a difference. Thanks for any help this is the first time I have done this and have no clue and if this is a sign of things to come its going to be a big headace.

Thanks guys,
Shane

Shane

I poked my head under there last night with a flashlight and didn't come up with much help for you. Sorry. If you stick the pushrod in the lower hole on the pedal shaft, I think it will bind up. Definitly not a good thing when it comes to brakes. If your brakes work correctly now and the pedal is up against the stop I wouldn't try to shorten the pushrod. Looks like the heating and bending is the solution. I just could swear there were 2 different ways to mount the pedal though... That's what happens when you get old I guess. http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif Good luck.

Mark

Mark,
If you don't mind is there a way to know where to drill the hole for the clutch rod. And also I have headman headers on it and it looks like it will be close on the z bar do you know about this. I have a bellhousing on the way so I will be able to instll all the linkage before I acually get the trans. Thanks for all the help.

Shane

Shane

We're going back 20 years here. Let me kick start my memory.

I believe there was just a rubber plug where the clutch rod went through the firewall. I don't remember drilling anything. It was just a matter of figuring out which end was up on the linkage and then bolting it up. If it's the stock bellhousing, linkage etc., you shouldn't have any problems. I also have headman headers, and everything clears just fine. I'll look at my firewall tonight and see if I can come up with more info. for you.

Mark

OK thanks I have looked and don't have a rubber boot that I can go through. If it makes a differce it is a colum shift auto.

Thanks

Shane

You should have a round, removable plate directly under the brake master cylinder. This is where the clutch rod goes through the firewall. You'll have to peel back some insulation to find it inside the car. The z-bar should clear the inside of the #7 header tube with no problem. Let me know how it goes.

Mark

Shane im doing the same swap on my 69 only it was auto on the floor. There is a rubber cap with 2 screws holding it to the firewall
kind of behind the brake booster and hard to see the clutch rod boot matches right up to it. I also got my used pedal assy today and noticed that the clevis for the brake rod is adjustable looks like you could get about 2 inches from 1 extreme to the other at the foot pad. .....MIKE aka 3DUDE