My friend has a 68 Camaro and he has a 8.2 inch rearend, we are going to get a 8.5 from a nova its supposed to fit but we are confused about the driveshaft, can you use the camaro one, the nova one or does it need to be shortened,if so what is it you have to do and how much approxiamtely does it cost. If it ended up being longer couldn't you just stick the yoke farther in the transmision?????

Sticking the yoke in further is not the way to go. You should have about 1" of in travel befor it bottoms out. If this is a budget project,
shop the salvage yards shaft pile for a shaft
that is very close to what you need ( longer or shorter). The machine shop cost would be more than this ba a long shot and then may have to be rebalanced. Did the same thing few years back when going from turbo 350 to power glide
and 9" ford. Remember, you can buy a new shaft for less than what a haphazzard weld job could destroy if it comes apart. Shop
around the yards with a tape and calipers and you can find what you need. Watch out for
bend shafts though.

Sticking the yoke in further is not the way to go. You should have about 1" of in travel befor it bottoms out. If this is a budget project,
shop the salvage yards shaft pile for a shaft
that is very close to what you need ( longer or shorter). The machine shop cost would be more than this ba a long shot and then may have to be rebalanced. Did the same thing few years back when going from turbo 350 to power glide
and 9" ford. Remember, you can buy a new shaft for less than what a haphazzard weld job could destroy if it comes apart. Shop
around the yards with a tape and calipers and you can find what you need. Watch out for
bend shafts though.

I just completed this process. I had a new driveshaft made for the car. BTW, my driveshaft would not fit, even with the yoke all the way in the trans (it was close, but no cigar). The new driveshaft, which should handle all 600hp I'm putting out, cost about $225.

Mike

If your d/s is longer it's fairly cheap to shorten and balance(always get it balanced)it costs around a $100.cdn if the 8.5 is a 3R serries I think you'll also need a conversion u-joint to go from 3R to 1310 series I think that the Camaro used that series back then.

It's easy to tell one will have inside snap rings(3R) the other has outside snap rings(1310).

You could also get the 3R series weld yoke put in for about $40.CDN then you don't need a conversion ujoint.It will be stronger as well.

My driveshaft was too long for my tranny when changing to a th400, and I had it shortened and balanced. The place i took it noticed that the end that mounted to the yolk was cracked and welded a new one on for me. The whole deal cost me $76. So shortening is not that bad a deal if you shop around.

I had a heavy duty 3" balanced shaft made for my 69 with new yokes and modern HD sealed u joints.
Cost $220. Didn't think that was a bad price. Had it ready in 4 hours!
Joe

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69 396 w/SS Trim, B&M TH400, 3.55 12 Bolt Posi, Blue w/White Z28 Stripes, Chrome Rally Wheels
Badboatdude@CS.com
69 Pics http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1506559&a=11674961

SOunds great but exactly what conversion u joint is used, part number? also does anybody know specifically if any other drive shaft out of a different car fits? how about the novas?

I can't remember off hand but if you go to a driveline shop and say you want to go from 3R to 1310 if that's what you have they will know.The 3R is 5-3147x for spicer and 3147 for generic,the 1310 is 5-153x and 153 for generic.Hp after the number means high perf(not cross drilled and non greasable more for track only.Install the grease nipple away from the torq side and they will have less chance of breaking.
I would still recomend a new weld yoke instead of a conversion ujoint.

I was planning on doing a rearend swap into my 69 using a nova rear housing and a 79 transam posi setup...... does this require you to shorten the stock camaro driveshaft?? I thought the stock camaro shaft would work.

i had to get my driveshaft shortened when i put the 700r4 in my '68. shortening almost 3" and balancing it cost $35.

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'68 with a 355 and dart pro1 heads, deh275 comp cam, air-gap intake, 700r4 tranny and 3.73 gears. '69 SS with a 427 with edelbrock alum heads, comp cam, weiand intake, with a muncie 4-speed and 4.11 gears

I might be wrong but I don't think the diff will make a difference if it's a 10 bolt.

sorry to tag on to your topic, but where is the "correct" place to measure the driveshaft length? Is it from trans. tail to diff u-joint pocket? What about driveshafts that are out of the vehicle? From tip to tip, or center of u-joint to center of u-joint?
Tyler

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68-LT1-T56
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Tyler

Shafts are geneally measured from center to center on the u-joint caps.

Mark

Teetoe, I have a pamplet from Drive Line Services that tells how with drawings. I will try to scan it and Email it to you.
Of course I've never used the scanner before so wish me luck! http://www.camaros.net/forum/redface.gif
Joe

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69 396 w/SS Trim, B&M TH400, 3.55 12 Bolt Posi, Blue w/White Z28 Stripes, Chrome Rally Wheels
Badboatdude@CS.com
69 Pics http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1506559&a=11674961

I remember the part for the conversion ujoint now it's a 5-3022X for Spicer and -3022 for generic.

Always measure driveshaft from center of ujoint to center of ujoint in the running position.

[This message has been edited by craggar (edited 02-27-2001).]

Teetoe,

Have the car on jackstands and the differential at ride height.

Install the transmission slip yoke and rotate the slip yoke and pinion so that the u-joint holes are horizontal.

Push in the slip yoke until it bottoms and pull out 3/4".

Measure the center-to-center distance of the slip yoke to pinion u-joint holes.

Inland Empire driveline has a great explanation and sketch on their website.