i have an 87 i-roc that the battery is most likely dead and i got it jumpstarted a few times but it wouldnt stay running, it would start choking then just die. i have been told by a few friends that it might be the altenator or just a dead battery, but then again the battery is only a year old. could there be a short thats draining my batt? any help that anyone can provide will be taken into consideration.
thanks

hey, if it starts with a jumpstart then you undo jumper cables and it dies, it is probaly the alternator, 87 camaro is fuel injected and takes power to run, ie. fuel pump,ecm, etc, when you get it running put voltmeter on battery and you should have at least 13.75 volts, but over 14 is normal for a good operating alternator, if you don't have this than that is why it is not staying running. does it crank over once it dies??? let us know more
Jake

Are you sure the problem is elecrical? Do you have a voltage meter to see what the voltage is. The battery should have 12.5 to 12.7 volts before the engine is running and about 14.5 when running. Is your engine TPI or carbureted?

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2000 Corvette hardtop black, 6 speed, Halltech Tric cold air intake w/nylon MAF ends, Corsa Touring cat back exhaust w/pro tips, Taylor wires, 1/4 mile: 12.918 @ 111.29 mph on stock EMT's 330 rwhp, 342 rwt on MTI's dyno, 3075 lbs

79 Camaro 355 CID, Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, Edelbrock performer 64 cc alum cyl heads, comp cams extreme energy 262 cam, erson roller rockers, hooker headers, Mallory Comp 9000, 3.42 posi, 700R4 rebuilt w/ B&M kit, 2400 stall converter w/ TCI lockup kit

67 Camaro, 327 w/ a 'glide , waiting on "funding"

It sounds like a bad alternator. If your alternator was working, your car should continue running even if your battery was not taking a charge. It sounds like your battery is completely drained and is not putting out enough juice to keep your engine running.

The easiest way to tell if your alternator is working correctly is to get your battery fully charged (if it doesn't take a full charge, get it tested because it may have gone bad too), start the engine, then disconnect the positive battery cable. When you disconnect the batter cable, the engine should continue to run. If the engine quits, it's time for a new alternator.

Hope this helps...Let us know how you make out.

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X77, Stock matching number 302, 4:10 rear, black int, weld prostars, 2.5" Flowmaster 50 Series
http://community.webshots.com/user/lakemg

[This message has been edited by 1FASTZ (edited 01-29-2003).]

hey like, fast says more than likely its your alternator, as you get it going but then it dies, i would check connections at battery( that is where the car gets is power from the alterntor, the small wire with the big positive is what gives the car power) so when the alternator works it chages battery and car draws from that, check connections, and have wherever you bought battery check battery, then hook back up and do voltage test,you want 13.75 -14.5 volts, alternators never put out the same number, you could get new one that outs out 14.25 then a new one that puts out 13.9, so don't worry to much about the exact amount, but goodluck
jake

I would never recommend taking a battery cable off of a running car with a computer. A voltage spike could make your ECM toast.

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'69 RS Camaro
355 5-speed 4.11

On second thought, I have to agree with 1 2 RUN (good point), you might not want to try my suggestion. Although I did it a few times on an 88 Iroc and never had any ECM problems, I'd hate for this method to scrap your ECM. Play it safe and take the time to pull your alternator and go get it tested. I'm sure there are places in your area that will test it for you. I know Autozone tests them.


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X77, matching number stock 302, 4:10 rear, fathom green ext, black int, weld prostars, 2.5" 50 Series Flowmasters Series

http://community.webshots.com/user/lakemg

thanks....i got it checked out and turns out it was the altenator and the battery was drained also. just gotta get it replaced and hope to be up and runnin again.