SBC - What Throttle Rod?? Help! [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: SBC - What Throttle Rod?? Help!


Josh69
Aug 26th, 04, 05:52 AM
So it's come down to this. I took off the tunnel ram, and am am installing my RPM Air Gap onto my SBC with an Edelbrock 750 Performer carb. It's a SBC in a '69 Camaro. I realized that I don't have a throttle rod from my accelerator arm to the carb. I ordered the 'universal' one from Rick's...it's not very universal, allowing only a couple of inches of adjustment, and being 14" long. I temporarily used a 8" rod that I sold with my tunnel ram when I had the Torker and same carb on my car.

What fits? What do you guys use for your applications? Does anyone run the RPM Air Gap (fairly tall), or another manifold with a 1" spacer and also an Edelbrock carb that has a good suggestion?

Thanks!
Josh

Nantooch
Aug 26th, 04, 06:12 AM
Josh, check here under fuel systems. the accelerator to carb arms are listed. $29 I think.
http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/catalog/CAMARO/camaro%20view%20catalog%20sections%20.html

Brandon J.

Josh69
Aug 26th, 04, 06:39 AM
Thanks, but I guess what I need to know is will they work with my application, and if so, which one? Z/28, or 350 4V. Since I have the high rise RPM Air Gap and an Edelbrock carb, which one is the correct length?

That's why I bought the 'universal' rod, but it's too long by my best guess. I'm hoping there are guys out there that have upgraded their manifold and/or carb but were able to use their stock linkage...if so I'd like to know which one they used.

Any help is appreciated!!

onovakind67
Aug 26th, 04, 08:08 AM
I use 1/4-28 threaded rod and two 1/4" heim joints. You can get these at any good hardware store for less than $20. Measure the distance you need to span with the pedal all the way down and the throttle wide open and cut the rod to fit. If you don't like the look of the threaded rod, cover it with tubing. We put this exact linkage on a 331" Mustang that was having throttle linkage problems and gained 245 rwhp. Not bat for a $20 investment.

Nantooch
Aug 26th, 04, 09:05 AM
Josh,
I have the RPM manifold which is actually taller than the Airgap, I have a 1" spacer and have had the Edelbrock and a Holley on it. So should work with no problems.

Josh69
Aug 26th, 04, 11:03 AM
What throttle rod do you have, can you identify it for me based on the NPD page you linked? Or, do you know what your stock linkage was for? Was it the 350 4V? I was wondering if the Z/28 one would be better as it came with a factory high rise manifold.

Thanks,
Josh

BPOS
Aug 26th, 04, 11:18 AM
I'm using a Performer RPM, Holley 650 DP. I'm using the original rod from a 307 2 barrel. Works fine.

rojo
Aug 26th, 04, 11:32 AM
Josh,

Head down to the hardware store and pick up a 1/4 x 28 die to rethread the rod you have after you cut it to length. Probably less than $4 bucks at your local Ace. Spend another couple of bucks for a handle or you can chuck the die up in a vise or maybe even in a set of vise grips.

P.S. take the rod with you to make sure of the thread size.

Josh69
Aug 27th, 04, 04:52 AM
I think what I'll do is use the universal rod I have since it's chrome, and cut off some of the threads on the threaded end and fit a heim joint. Then, I'll cut the other end off where I need it to be, than thread that and fit another heim joint. I don't like the clip set-up anyway.

Thanks for the ideas!!
Josh

novaderrik
Aug 27th, 04, 07:02 AM
you could always get a gas pedal and cable from an early 70's Nova and not have to worry about it binding if a motor mount lets go or something. it will bolt right in- and all you need to do is drill a 1/2" or so hole in the firewall for the cable to pass thru- and there might even be a dimple there where the hole goes, since a 69 Nova used a cable and had the same firewall panel.
if the Nova cable is too short- just scour around the boneyard until you find one that's long enough.

Greg O
Aug 27th, 04, 07:14 AM
I would say go with the 350 4V one. I have run the RPM intake with a holley and up to a 2" spacer with the factory 307 2V rod. It doesn't look like the Z/28 one in the picture.

Everett#2390
Aug 27th, 04, 08:28 AM
Doesn't anybody use a coat hangar through the dash anymore? Hand throttle.....bend it over and throttle is locked!........LOL

Kyvox
Aug 27th, 04, 08:31 AM
If you're using a drop base air cleaner, you'll need the bent Z28 type rod. There very easily made with the parts mentioned above.

BPOS
Aug 27th, 04, 10:20 AM
I'm using a GM drop base air cleaner with a straight rod - Holley, though, not Edelbrock. Maybe there is a diff...

Josh69
Aug 27th, 04, 12:04 PM
Currently I have a 3" air cleaner that is not a drop base...but it stuck through my hood even with the Torker manifold I had on there first, luckily I had a hole from the tunnel ram. I'm ordering a steel cowl hood for the car next week, so I'm not sure if it'll clear my aircleaner or not, or if I need to order a drop-base aircleaner.

Maybe my universal rod is the ticket if I have to start bending stuff....

So the bend in the Z/28 Rod is to clear the aircleaner...makes sense now.

BPOS
Aug 29th, 04, 05:08 PM
Originally posted by onovakind67:
I use 1/4-28 threaded rod and two 1/4" heim joints. You can get these at any good hardware store for less than $20. Measure the distance you need to span with the pedal all the way down and the throttle wide open and cut the rod to fit. If you don't like the look of the threaded rod, cover it with tubing. We put this exact linkage on a 331" Mustang that was having throttle linkage problems and gained 245 rwhp. Not bat for a $20 investment. The more I thought about this the better it sounded. I was always a bit leery of my stock set up, mainly due to the fact that I was using a hitch pin to hold the stud on at the carb, and I have never really trusted that it wouldn't just fall off.

So off to the hardware store I went. $27 later I have a rock-solid accel linkage. Thanks to Onovakind67 for the idea! The only gripe I have is that it doesn't feel like I gained 245 RWHP!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/69%20Camaro/DSCN2237.jpg

Fits under the GM drop base just fine!

onovakind67
Aug 29th, 04, 05:44 PM
Have you checked your full throttle opening? I see that you've selected a hole on the throttle linkage that gives you poor leverage at WOT. As the throttle is opened, the rear pivot goes up while the front pivot goes down and you may end up with the linkage bound at less than WOT. This happens when the rod points directly at the throttle shaft and all leverage is lost.
If you use the large hole with a pair of washers, it will improve the angularity of the throttle linkage. You ideally want the linkage to go equal parts over center during the throttle travel. I use a heim joint on the front end with an adapter for the big hole.

BPOS
Aug 29th, 04, 05:53 PM
Good point and thanks for the heads-up. That is the hole I used the stock rod in, and I'm pretty sure I was getting WOT. I'll have the wife mash the pedal for me this week and have another look see. The threaded rod I bought was 3 feet long, so I have plenty left if I need to re-do it. That is a heim joint of sorts at the carb - kind of a low tech affair ball/socket with a spring clip holding it together. It has a smaller stud coming out of it. The fancy ones, like the rear one, were only available in 1/4 x 1/4. I may wind up with the nicer one at the front as well.

BPOS
Aug 29th, 04, 06:34 PM
Nova - You were right - I was just shy of WOT. Close, but no cigar. So I put the linkage to the big hole as you said, WOT is no problem. However, now the rod hits my drop base air cleaner. My plan is to drill a hole and attach the linkage at the point marked "X" in the pic below. (The arrow points at the hole I WAS using)
Opinion? Thanks!
PS My other option is to use the big hole and put a bend in the rod.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/69%20Camaro/DSCN2239.jpg

Everett#2390
Aug 30th, 04, 01:19 AM
There is a 1/4 inch ID nylon bushing and grommet to fit in the big hole. Dealer has them, so do the aftermarket places, Help aisle at Advance Auto.

Josh69
Aug 30th, 04, 04:47 AM
What kind of rod did you use from the hardware store, or do you have a tube over the threaded rod, as it appears to be a solid rod in the pic?

Thanks!
Josh

rojo
Aug 30th, 04, 05:25 AM
To add to Everett's suggestion I've used these bushings and they are a nice piece. Summits part # is MOR-64920

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mor-64920.jpg

BPOS
Aug 30th, 04, 06:10 AM
Originally posted by Josh69:
What kind of rod did you use from the hardware store, or do you have a tube over the threaded rod, as it appears to be a solid rod in the pic?

Thanks!
Josh I used 1/4-28 grade 8 threaded rod, and coverd the center part with (I think) 5/16ID steel tubing. It was just something I had laying around.

deerhunter
Aug 30th, 04, 07:01 AM
Originally posted by onovakind67:
I use 1/4-28 threaded rod and two 1/4" heim joints. You can get these at any good hardware store for less than $20. Measure the distance you need to span with the pedal all the way down and the throttle wide open and cut the rod to fit. If you don't like the look of the threaded rod, cover it with tubing. We put this exact linkage on a 331" Mustang that was having throttle linkage problems and gained 245 rwhp. Not bat for a $20 investment.

onovakind67
Aug 30th, 04, 10:06 AM
I'd put a bend in the rod. You'll have a much better throttle feel using the upper hole on the carb linkage.

JimM
Aug 30th, 04, 10:58 AM
I'm using the original (327-4v) It's 11" long, with 2" of thread. I'm srewed on alomst all the way down. It fit fine with a torker 2, also fine with the performer rpm i put on yesterday.

Have yet to determine if the air cleaner will fit under the hood, that rpm is tall

JimM
Aug 30th, 04, 01:14 PM
I'm using the original (327-4v) It's 11" long, with 2" of thread. I'm srewed on alomst all the way down. It fit fine with a torker 2, also fine with the performer rpm i put on yesterday.

Have yet to determine if the air cleaner will fit under the hood, that rpm is tall

CarlC
Aug 30th, 04, 02:20 PM
All of the parts are avaialble on-line from McMaster-Carr. They have a bunch of different choices, including a slick quick-disconect version with a safey sleeve. I'll try and take a picture of my old one for you. It works very well.