I own a 96 z28. Un fortunatly I need a new clutch. It's weird thought, because the car will still start and I can force it in and out of gears. I'm not sure but I think that maybe the pressure plate and clutch itself disconnected. I was wondering if a limited do-it yourselfer could replace a clutch in a weekend or so?, and also if I can't how much it will cost me to have it done?
thanks jk2b

not a job for the easy do,s. Requires tranny pull. Check clutch linkage and fluid. I am not sure but you might have a hydralic actuated clutch. you can get gears because of the syncros in the tranny, and the netral starting switch is connected to the linkage. seldom do clutches just up and quit, they usually start slipping first. How did it quit?

hey thanks for your help, i was doing like 55, on a hill and went to down shift to make a right turn but when my foot hit the pedal the pedal when to the floor, it almost feels like a sponngy brake pedal. I checked the clutch fluid and it was dry so i put some dot 3 in. I can't find the tranny dip stick, I even have the hanes manual. It never slipped or anything like that it always bit fine until then. thanks jk2b

Sounds to me like either the slave cylinder or the clutch master cylinder let go. Refill the clutch master cylinder then pump the clutch a few times. Check the clutch master cylinder, all lines and connections, and the slave cylinder for leaks. Something in the system is causing a loss of pressure. That is why your clutch is not releasing.

stick shifts usually do not have a dip stick. there is an oil fill plug on the trans. fill to the level of the plug

When it ran low on fluid it probably got air in the system. You have to bleed the system like a brake system. This is difficult because the bleeder is at the bottom and air goes up. You need a reverse bleeder like the one Phoenix Injector makes. www.phxsyss.com (http://www.phxsyss.com)

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead (http://www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead)

Your hydraulic actuator took a crap. You'll need a new one, since they are almost impossible to bleed, and it sounds like you lost a seal. They are a pain in the butt to change on a late model car, (i just did 2 of them and it took me 4 hours to do. I'm a professional technician too...)
I'd take it to the dealer and have them install a new hydraulic actuator. It is attached to the firewall under the brake booster by a U bolt, and then clipped to the pedal. On the under side there is a hose and actuator slave in the bellhousing, that moves the fork. it's on the drivers side, and is attached by 2 13mm bolts, and will pull right out. It is not easy if you've never done this sort of work before, but certianly not impossible.
A new slave is around 120 new from GM.
Tyler

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thanks for everones help, is there anyway I can test to see exactly what is wrong before I tear stuff apart, remember I'm just a driveway mechanic.