I am looking for a shorter way to set the valves of my solid cam. I am doing it the long way now. One cylinder at a time. Years ago before my motor was stolen I used to set one cylinder and I could set half the valves and then turn the motor over to the other cylinder and then set the other half. I don't remember what cylinder to start at or what valves I can set when that cylinder is set. The guy I raced with got it out of some book. I have no idea what book or where that guy is.

Just did it on my 302. I got it out of 67 chevy chassis service manual.

Make sure engine is at normal operating temperature.

a. crank engine until mark on tortional damper is at 0 on timing tab and the engine is in the no.1 firing position. If the valves are not moving the engine is at no.1 firing position.If the valves are moving as the mark comes up to 0 on the damper the engine is in the no. 6 firing position and crankshaft should be rotated one more revolution to reach the no. one position.

b.With the engine at no. 1 firing position adjust the following valves to spec using a feeler gauge. Exhaust- 4,8 Intake- 2,7.

c.Turn crankshaft 1/2 revolution(180 deg.) clockwise and adjust the following valves to spec. Exhaust- 3,6 Intake- 1,8.

d. Turn crankshaft 1/2 revolution clockwise until mark on damper is at 0. This is no. 6 firing position.Adjust following valves.
Exhaust- 5,7 Intake- 3,4

e. Turn crankshaft 1/2 revolution clockwise and adjust the following valves.
Exhaust- 1,2 Intake- 5,6

Bill,
If you have anything much bigger than a stock cam, you are much safer doing one cylinder at a time. With long duration camshafts you risk having one or two lobes slightly in the open position when you use the service manual method. We always do them one cyl at a time, using the method that when the exhaust valve just starts to open ...you adjust the intake, then when the intake has opened all the way and comes just about closed...adjust the exhaust. This method assures you are on the base of the cam every time, any motor.
Hope this helps,

------------------
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

Bill is absolutely right, take the time to set them one cylinder at a time. Eliminates any "did I do that one already??" questions. Run Polylocks, and you shouldn't have to adjust them too much after the cam is broken in.

BillK is absolutely right, take the time to set them one cylinder at a time. Eliminates any "did I do that one already??" questions. Run Polylocks, and you shouldn't have to adjust them too much after the cam is broken in.

BillK, thats the way I have always heard but I have always done it my own way and never had any problems. Can't you adjust both the intake and exhaust at the same time for one cylinder if the piston for that cylinder is at (or close) to TDC on the compression stroke? Wouldn't both lifters be riding on the base part of the cam at this point in time? If so you should be able to adjust the cylinders in the order same as the firing order. Alot less of turning the motor over also. Never once did I have a problem (done this a million times for myself and others) but people on this site seem to be so informative that I am sure someone will tell me whats wrong with my way, which of course is why I mentioned it. Is my way bad? It seems to be alot quicker than other ways mentioned of doing one cylinder at a time. Thank you

Thanks for all the help. My cam is bigger than stock. 324 duration 600 lift but years ago (my last motor) it was a 305/605 and I set them kind of the way that jacks said to do it but not as many steps. I race my car so I am very careful at what I do. 68396 I have never heard of that way but if it works then to each his own. I run a 396 bored 030 over Thanks again

68ss,
There are cams out there that will not have both lifters completely on the base circle of the cam at TDC. They are usually very radical, competition type cams. If you look in the service manual, even Chevy has a different procedure for hydraulic and mechanical cams, due to the greater overlap on the solid cams.
I would prefer not to take a chance, especially when advising someone else how to do the job. It may be a bit more work my way, but absolutely safe every time, from a Briggs and Stratton 5hp to a 1000 hp blown Rat motor.

BillK, Thanks for the info. Good point about giving out info that may not be good for everyone. Looks like I have to take a different approach when I adjust them.

Bill K has it right. I might add that if you go to roller rockers with polly lock type nuts, you should be able to go a long time before needing adjustment. Also the valves will be much quieter. While you are at it, if your heads have screw in studs go to the ARP 7/16" studs and get the roller rockers to fit them. Your adjustments should stay put for a LONG time!