RickB1B
Nov 23rd, 01, 06:43 AM
Guy's I have a vibraion in the drive train. I have had the driveshaft balanced with all new u-joints. The vibration only comes when I let off the throttle. Here's my question, I read a post about the transmition output shaft, which said if this is loose I could have a bad bushing causing this kind of vibration. I went and checked and when I push up on the output shaft, mine moves about 1/16 of an inch. Do you think this is the cause and can someone give me a quick lesson on how to replace this bushing. Or should I just take it to the trans shop. BTW it's a TH-350 Thanks Rick
RickB1B
Dec 7th, 01, 08:23 AM
Well guy's, since no one answered my post I thought I would answer my own question encase someone else has the same problem. When I pushed on the driveshaft yoke where it comes out of the transmition, it moved about 1/16 in. I pulled the tail cone and seal. The bushing was very easy to hammer out and replace. The whole jopb was about and hour. Now the vibration is gone.
As a side note, I have had several vibrations in my car. The first one occured at around 55-65 mph, it was a low frequency type vibration. This one was fixed by changing the leaf springs to multi leaf ones.
The other vibrations were high frequency ones which were fixed by ballancing the driveshaft and changing the u-joints.
Now this last one was a very high frequency vibration which was fixed as stated above.
Hope this helps someone out there.
drdave69
Dec 7th, 01, 09:20 AM
Rick, did you remove the whole tailstock to replace the bushing? If so, did you have to drain the fluid first? Where did you get the new bushing? I am about to pull my 4 speed to hopefully fix a few leaks and was just wondering how easy the tailstock/bushing removal and install job was. Thanks.
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'69 Z11 Pace Car, 350/4 speed
RickB1B
Dec 7th, 01, 08:30 PM
drdave, Yes I pulled the tailstock. First you remove the driveline, then there are four bolts holding the tail on. No you do not need to drain the trans to pull this but you will need to diconnect the speedometer cable. It will have oil in it if you let it set a while but if you run it first all the oil will br drawn up into the torque converter and ther will be very little in the tail. You might get 1/2 a cup to fall out.
You will see the bushing in the end right after the oil seal. Just hammer out the seal and then the bushing. Then hammer in a new bushing using a socket to drive it in straight. If you bang up the edges use a file to clean them up.
RickB1B
Dec 7th, 01, 08:31 PM
drdave, I got the bushing and seal at NAPA for $5.00