DZ BLOCK [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: DZ BLOCK


Zeeman3
Apr 1st, 02, 03:43 PM
I have a 1969 Z/28 which I have put in a standard bore 010 block that has a "Z" crank,connecting rods and pistons. The cam shaft is out of a 1970 Z/28.I also have a DZ block that I would like to use in the car along with the parts out of the standard bore 010 block,but it was bored .030 over and to use the block now it needs to be rebored.I have considered sleeving the cylinders but would like some input about the pros and cons also cost is a factor.:Confused:

DjD
Apr 2nd, 02, 09:55 AM
ttt

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...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_03.jpg), the '96 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_02.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

Oramac68
Apr 2nd, 02, 07:16 PM
hey zeeman! i did my z a few years ago and sleeved 3 bores worked great as a matter of fact i would recomend doing all. the engine builder said youll have a better engine, because sleeving eliminates core shifting,he also said must big racers nascar etc sleeve the cylinders automatically on new motors hope this helps you Oramac68

JohnZ
Apr 3rd, 02, 03:27 PM
"Core-shifting" occurs when the molten iron is being poured while the block is being cast, not after it's machined, and newly-built NASCAR engines are not sleeved.

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JohnZ
CRG
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

Oramac68
Apr 3rd, 02, 08:26 PM
john z is rite i used the wrong word about core shift, what i meant was the block is now well seasoned so there wont be any movement within the bores after you install the sleeves.

Vintage 68
Apr 4th, 02, 09:41 AM
"Dry sleeving" a single cylinder is a viable option to rescue a good block, but doing all eight is not a cost effective move in all but a total numbers matching rebuild.
Good '0' overbore DZ (or regular 4" bore if you can live with another code) cores are still out there.
A good core with minimum "core shift" can be spotted by several factors. One of the easiest ways is to look at the lifter bores in relation to the "Twin Humps" they are drilled into, the holes should be equally
centered in each pair of 'humps' in all 16 locations. The closer the holes are to 'centered' the less amount of "core shift" there should be in that casting.
Get a couple of the good books on Chevy engines that published and read up on selecting a block, it will be well wouth your effort in finding and building (or having built) a good engine that fits your needs.
We do not routinely dry sleeve any cast iron endurance race engine.