I am removing the electrial oil pressue gauge and installing a mechanical gauge. The question I have is can I use the same place on the block to hook up the mechanical gauge as the electrical gauge minus the electrical gauge sender?

It the original 327 and the sender is on the back of the block by the distributor.

I plan on using a braided steel line with AN fittings on both the block and gauge.

Yes, it will work fine connected to the original port. I believe there is also a port by the oil filter.

-dnult

This is probably an obvious mention, but be sure to use a grommet on the firewall when you route your line into your car. I've seen instances where this wasn't done, and it can make quite a mess.

Rich

That's the part that has me a bit nervous. Just don't like the thought of drilling on the firewall. A grommet was already in the plan

-Funk

Have you looked into the copper tubing for some added strength over the plastic stuff?

Good luck.

Rich

P.S. Measure twice, drill once.

I am going to be using braided steel line with AN fittings on both ends.

What size line are you planning on running?

Rich

Not sure, any suggestions? This is my firt mechanical gauge and I only have the gauge, no hose or fittings.

Actually, I need to know what fitting I will use for the block. I am going to use the hole by the distributor.

Autometer sells a braided oil pressure gauge line kit- like $30 or so, and comes with either 3 or 6 feet of line and all the different fittings you might need. and if they don't include a fitting you need, just head to the hardware store and you can get what you need there in the plumbing section. the braided hose in the kit is -4, i think.

I used the Autometer braided kit and it worked great. I just don't feel comfortable with pressurized hot oil inside my car using that cheap plastic hose that most mechanical guages come with.

CFunk, you might consider drilling the hole in the firewall in the factory location. Check your factory assembly manual for the dimple location measurements.

-Mark.

Pwoolford, do you have a part number on that kit from Autometer for the braided line?

Rich

From the Autometer website, pages 88 and 89 of the catalog.

3227 - Braided Stainless Steel Hose, 3ft. #4, 3/16" ID Fittings

3228 - Braided Stainless Steel Hose, 6ft. #4, 3/16" ID Fittings

3229 - Braided Stainless Steel Hose, 4ft. #4, 3/16" ID Fittings

They also have kits with #3 fittings. What is the difference between a #4 and #3 fitting?

They also sell a Kevlar hose kits for a few $$ more.

Should I wrap the threads with teflon tape?

Thanks guys, I wasn't looking forward to cutting the braided steel line and installing fittings.

Originally posted by dnult:
Yes, it will work fine connected to the original port. I believe there is also a port by the oil filter.

-dnult I might be changing my plan a bit. It looks a pipe is pressed into the port on top of the block, the other end is threaded and has a couple of 90* fittings on it.

Is port on the top by the distributor threaded? I might just cap it and use the port by the oil filter, any idea where it is down there and what type of fitting I will need?

I found a good spot for both the water temp and oil pressue hose routing. Since mine is an automatic I am going to route them through the clutch linkage hole on the firewall. Pull the plate, drill the hole in the plate, install grommet, route hoses and reinstall the plate.

No drilling on the firewall needed.

What do ya think?

The port next to the distributor is threaded 1/8" NPT. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks John, I couldn't really tell if it was threaded or not, it just looks pressed in.

4Barrel, I used the 3227 braided kit from Summit. This kit came with all the hardware to go from the 1/8 hole in the block by the distributor to the guage. Actually, I am using an electric gauge so I ran the braided line to the electric sender but the sender has the same 1/8 fitting as most mechanical gauges. I used ARP thread sealer at the block and the gauge.

pwoolford,

I assume the 3' hose in that kit was more than enough to reach from the block to the center console, correct?

<bump>

Still have some lingering questions.

CFunK,
I mounted my sender under the dash but the 3' kit looks like it would reach the console. I guess it depends on where you go through the firewall. I would run a piece of wire or rope to measure just to be safe.

Thanks. I am going to pickup the 4' kit just in case. I can always coil up the extra.

Rather be long than short.

CFunk, I have my oil gauge under the radio and hooked up to the 1/8 FPT port, as JohnZ suggested, with the line going thru the firewall at the clutch rod plate. It takes every bit of 6 foot length, if it was 7 foot, I'd feel better.

For anybody who has used this AN fitting kit, would 3 feet be long enough or do I need 4? My fitting is on the back of the motor, beside the distributor, and runs to my console gauge?

[ 10-25-2004, 07:48 AM: Message edited by: kz1000ltd ]

KZ, wish I could help you but I never got around to hooking up my gauges. I have this thread bookmarked when I get around to it and will update it.

I just talked to a reliable source, he says 3 feet should be enough, so that's what I ordered...
I thought I had the issue resolved, but just like everything else, it turned to crap. The oil pressure gauge side is fixed, but now the engine side is leaking? If it ain't one thing, it's another! Also, now my temp gauge isn't working, and I fried my amp gauge by accidentally dropping a ground wire on the back of it? Are we having fun yet? Guess I'll disconnect the battery next time I work on them, which of course, I always do, except this time....... graemlins/angry.gif

teflon "plumbers tape" on the block fitting,wrap it tight 2 wraps and make sure it doesn't go past the threads!get the right width tape and compress it with your fingers til the high spots on the threads just begin to change color,twisting the fitting in between your fingers in a tightening motion.be sure to wrap the tape so it is tightened as the fitting is tightened.
Eric

Teflon tape is good but i prefer the teflon paste its easier to use in tight places and I believe it offers a little better protection against leaks.

Isn't #3 = to 3/16" and #4 = to 1/4"??

pdq67

Thanks PDQ, good call. I got the AN Kit in the mail today, tried to install it. The motor side was OK, there's an extra fitting in the kit to step down into the block fitting. However, you guessed it, the gauge side fitting is too big! Doh graemlins/clonk.gif If you remember the way the back of the oil pressure gauge is made, there are actually two sets of threads, a 1/4 coarse thread that is actually for a nut to hold it onto the back of the housing, and then the second set of threads, the 3/16, which is what normally attaches to your oil line. I actually tried to use the 1/4 coarse thread without the gauge attached to the housing, and of course, it leaked. I guess my next option is for some kind of adapter to step up from 3/16 to 1/4, I'm sure it's available somewhere, somehow, in the land of milk and honey, but I'll never find it. This has been the absolute stupidest thing I have ever worked on in my life. I'm about ready to take a sledge hammer to it! CRAP! CRAP! CRAP! graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif