I have decided its time to replace the following seals/gaskets in my 350: Front seal, rear main seal, oil pan gasket...think thats it. My question is- can i replace all of these without pulling the motor. I know i will have to pull the radiator etc... to do the front seal but im really hoping i dont have to pull the whole motor. Any input appreciated from anyone whose done this.

No need to pull the motor, but you'll need to raise it off the mounts an inch or so to get the pan off; also helps when removing the pan to set the timing mark on the balancer at 5 o'clock (as viewed from the front) to get the front counterweight out of the way. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I just did this and it was not a fun job. I learned a lot from it. You do not need to remove your engine with a picker just do as John said and push it up.

To push your motor up, remove your distributor cap (if it is by the firewall cause you'll get additional lift space), disconnect you batery, remove your starter (make note of the wire connections), remove your oil & filter (I let mine drain for 7 days), loosen motor mount bolts.

Take measurements of your pan width and height nearest your tranny and add an inch to the height (roughly 12" wide by 9" tall).

With these measurements you wil build a "U" shaped brace out of a piece of 2x6 (I fastened mine with 4, 2" deck screws). This will cradle the oil pan wihtout crunching it.

Now, using a precise jack (I used a scissor jack), push the motor up enough to remove the bolts from the motor mounts. At this point I would try to use any pice of 2x4 to block the motor where possilbe for safety. Now that you hvae your bolts out, push your motor up til you you cannot lift it any more without crunching your distribtor or any other component. Take some 2x4 wedges and place them in your motor mounts (enough to keep your motor lifted up to remove your pan without support from the jack).

Now, remove your jack and let the motor settle on the 2x4 blocks.

Remove your pan, and seals. Be sure to clean the seal contact points well so you don't have to do this again. I used degreaser and steel wool along with a wood chissle to remove some of the more stubborn gasket.

I found it was easier to apply Chevy orange sealer to the front and rear seals and stick them up to the block like they were glued in before I attatched the main gaskets to the pan with the same sealer.

I then had my spare pice of 2x6x6" handy along with my scissor jack so that when I placed my pan back up to the block I could support it with the jack and wood (to not scratch/dent it). This really saved my arms some stress as it held the pan in place while I manuvered back it into place with the bolts. Note, get the bolsts back in quick or the sealer will start to harden to a point to make this very difficult. Get them all at least half way in within 15 minutes. Now tighten the pan without distorting the gasket. I tightened all 4 corners first, then did every other bolt. Then clean off all extra sealer and put everything back together by reversing the previous steps.

BE SURE YOUR CAR IS SAFELY SUPPORTED. I used two jack stands, tire Ramps and rear wheel blocks after my car initially nearly fell on me and blew a hole in my muffler because my motor shifted since I was not using the U tool to lift my mtor. I was pushing up on the pan with a 2x4 (not good). Plus, it would reak havvoc on my pan gasket job when putting it all back together. I have made another rule to have a cell phone within reach when under the car just in case the bad does happen. I now over prepare to prevent the bad from happening.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Unless your motor is exceptionaly clean, I'd get some safety glasses since oil cake does not feal good in your eye and you are looking up a lot. turst me.

Cheers Bro (and be safe)

-Dog Out

Maddog,
Thanks so much for the GREAT info. Although your post made me dread doing this job even more...sounds like a lot of work. I guess thats why i waited until winter to tackle it. The good news is i have a 4 post lift which should make life a little easier. It will probaly be a month or two before i get started on it. Once i get going i may have additional questions and its so great having everyone on this site to rely on. They have come thru for me time and time again. Thanks again. -Craig-

It's not all that much work BUT is just onna life's little hassles...

pdq67

you don't NEED to make the lift cradle like maddog said- just use a block of wood big enough to spread the load across the entire bottom of the oil pan, and jack it up out of the mounts. really, his post made it seem like it is a hard job or something. i think- since you have a lift- 2-3 hours is about all the time you should be spending on this little project.
then again, since it is winter, why not take the engine out from the top and do all the hard work with the engine on a stand- and do some cleaning and detailing of the engine bay and engine while it's all apart.

Here's the cradle I always use to keep from denting the pan on old Corvettes (you can't get those pans any more).

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-2/13522/2002228145643-3-PanSaddle.JPG

graemlins/beers.gif

I have gone back and forth a half dozen times on whether or not i should pull the motor. The thing i am struggling with is that i am seriously thinking about putting a big block in this car a couple of years down the road. So... how far do i wanna go with this motor now if im gonna replace it in 2-3 years.

I would just pull the motor.

All that time laying on your back, frequently having to get up for tools, dripping fluids in your face, the lighting won't be as good, etc...

Put it on a stand and turn it upside down and let gravity work for you, not against you.

Who knows, maybe you'll find the rear cam plug leaking or a freeze plug getting ready to rust through...you never know.

And like was posted above, you could clean and paint the engine compartment, this way it will be done when you do the big block.

Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound so tough, I just wanted to give you a detailed description of what I went through (which included some hard learned lessons). I wouldn't recommend using the wood block directly on the pan because of the risk of damaging your pan during removal and replacment not to mention putting all that extra stress on your newly replaced gasket that you spent so much time and effort trying to get just right. After doing this, knowone is exactly excited to get back down there and do it again.

I agree with the guys that if you have the option to pull the motor that it would be the best approach because that allows for a much better inspection plus you can clean the engine and the engine compartment.

Like everything, there are tons of opinions and options.

Good luck and let us know what you did and what you encountered.

-Dog Out...

[ 12-07-2004, 01:38 PM: Message edited by: maddogskip ]

If you decide to pull the motor, I've recently learned how easy it is to do with ALL THE FRONT END SHEETMETAL AND RAD SUPPORT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE GARAGE!!

ROTFLMAO... Sorry, I'm a lil slaphappy after this weekends activities.

Hey Thorpe,
If you want a hand, give me a yell. I'd love to be a second pair of hands if you need them. I just live up in Greece.

I just came back to this post after seeing it linked to a recent post. FYI- I began the initial phases of the project this weekend. I have in fact decided to pull the motor and do it right. So far have just done the easy stuff like removing radiator, water pump, power steering pump (need new one) and harmonic balancer. Will sit for a few weeks now until after the holidays when i will jump back into it full force.