I was wondering if any one knew what the maximum stroke crank I can use in a 454 block. And would I have to use a stock length connecting rod. Thanks

Starting out with a 454 block bored .060, you can make a 496 cu. inch stroker motor out of it by using a 4.25 stroke crank from SCAT (or others). You can also use the STOCK LENGTH rods if the you get the right crank. SCAT has a crank that has a stroke of 4.25" and has been radiused to be able to use the STOCK LENGTH rods (6.135").

Now if you wanted to go with a longer rod, you can make a 525 cu. inch motor out of your 454 (.060 over) by using a crank with a 4.5" stroke but in this case you would have to use a longer than normal connecting rod.

As you are aware. stroker technology is changing rapidly but this is I know as of this time.

[This message has been edited by sr71bb (edited 08-26-2000).]

Corn,

Be aware that the stock rod length .25" stroked 454 crankshaft might to have "some-alot" of heavy metal added to balance it. Thus adding to the cost substantially (spelling???) because the counterweights have to be "smaller" to clear the pistons at the bottom of the stroke.
I bought one of Lunati's last "welded" 4.25" stock stroker cranks. And I let their comment of "O, by the way, you will need to run .25" longer rods" go right over my head!!!! It locked up with the stock rods and I "took" it back to them to turn the counterweights down and balance.
They were great about the whole deal.
A shining light at the end of the tunnel was that all totalled, the reworked crank plus its cost is still "cheaper" than a set of .25" longer rods. I just don't have as good a rod/stroke ratio, but what the heck, I'm not going to beat on it all that hard so it will be fine.
Cost, like $50.00+/ slug of heavy metal x 5, in my case. Good luck. pdq67

cool thanks alot. Do you know any one that has these in a kit form. I would like to go with 4.5 stroke, then maybe down the line be able to get a 4.5 bore bowtie or merlin block. Also would I be better off with a tall deck block?

Hey Corn,

What I really want to make in the way of the big block is the following;
1) A World Products "low deck" block capable of being bored out to 4.75".
2) A 4.375" Stroke crank.
3) 9.5 or 10.0 to 1 C.R.
4) .25 longer rods.
5) A 240,245 @ 0.050" .550" lift on 110/106 Centers. solid cam.
6) A Holley Strip Dominator single plane intake with a 950 holley carb.
7) 2.125 headers.
8) Big Aluminum rectangular port heads in the 340/360 cc range with 2.40" intakes and1.94" or 2.00" exhaust that will cc out to make the 9.5 to 10.0 to 1 C.R.

If I've done my math right, it should be a 620 cubic inch 396 "clone" for stealth purposes.
A 10 to 1 version of this engine per Dyno2000 gives 658 HP at 5500 rpm and 738 lb-ft of torque at 4000 rpm. Definitely a "street stomper". And if this isn't enough a 250/255/.650"/.650" same lobe angles solid roller picks it up to 729 HP at 5500 rpm and 772 Torque at 4000 rpm. Again all in the street rpm range.
Boy, can I wait till my kids are gone, Ha, Ha!!!! Food for thought. pdq67
PS I know Dyno2000 isn't a real engine but with this much "indicated" power, who cares.

I think a 4.25" stroke is max for a stock production 454 block. If you go any larger you will likley hit water when you start grinding on the block for rod clearance. Has anyone ever put a stroke larger than 4.25" in a production block?
The tall deck block allows you to run a longer rod without the wrist pin running into the oil ring. I have seen tuck blocks bored to .100 over without problem but you should have it sonic tested first. I have a tall deck block that is getting a 4.25" crank for my 69.
Stephen

------------------
67 RS/SS 350 700R4
69 SS clone unfinished
72 454 Weekend Racer

[This message has been edited by squarles (edited 08-28-2000).]

Hey thanks again on the posts. Try www.speedomotive.com/ (http://www.speedomotive.com/)
wow, that 540 is looking good. 900 horsepower, and lets see some nitrous, chu cheeng. the price is , well out of my reach. but it would look and feel good in my car.

I also sent them a e-mail to see how much will go in a 454 block. I will post when I get a response. Thanks again dude's

Corn,

I've got four ringless pistons in my 496's block now checking "deck height" and as of these four everything fits with "no grinding".
I am going to mock up the last four and check the rods that generally hit in a small block. I will post back the "eight rod" mock up if I have any fitment problems.
I'm a "lazy person" when the thermometer gets above 90 in the afternoon, because I shoulda already had this little detail taken care of. pdq67

496, thats 4.25 stroke and 4.310 bore isnt it. Man I'm jelous. I want to go huge but all the parts I have now I can put together a 427. But cubes rule, but I do got nitrous.

I am a little scared of it, I recently traded a predator carb for it. Only thing bad about it is its a fogger. 500 horse at that, and I need two stage. hahahah the guy I traded, what a dumb ***. He put it a stock 1980 454 dually pickup.

And he had the release on the handle of his mega shifter. He was drunk one night and forgot to put it in park when he killed it. so after the engine was off he slammed the shifter in park and hit the nitrous button.

A few minutes later he restarted it and blew every rod thru the block. haahahahaha I laughed so hard when he showed me the block. wow it f**ked it up big time.

Corn,

I got the other 4 pistons in my block and after turning it over with the cam "spotted", it doesn't hit anywhere. I even think that I coulda got away with a 4.375" stroke crank instead of the 4.25" one I have now. My block is a 1975 truck 454 block, with stock length rods.
If I had it to do over again, I would of opted for the 3/8 arm and bored to 4.375" so my engine would be a "square" 526 cubic inch engine. pdq67