My instructions on my cam kit (complete) states to remove the inner valve spring during break in. Is this really 100% necessary. The inner spring looks to be a real pain to remove,much less reinstall after break in. Just seems like alot extra work... Opinions?
Thanks,

We have to do it on all the engines we build, It sure beats taking the engine apart a to clean the junk out of it as we would not get paid for that and we also don't need the practice either.

On some of the engines we do we are able to use 1.2 or we have a set of 1.35 break in rockers as that saves changing the springs out. And the solid lifters we have been using the last 4 years are the tool steel ones from Precision Products and on the hydraulic we use the ones from GM P/N 5232720 as I feel there are still some quaulty issues with lifters and if you get a bad set it doesn't matter if you use break in rockers or remove the springs as it will still flatten a lobe.

Would I be able to use the original 396 valve springs with the inner springs removed for break in? Will that create other problems being that they will not be matched to the cams lift? I`d hate to think that I may end up trashing the new springs while trying to remove the inner spring... Cam specs / .510 gross lift / 270 tappet lift / 224 duration intake & exhaust / .3000 lobe lift /110.0 lobe separation

As long as you have at least 80 LBS at the seat and not over 200 over the nose that sould work fine and add a pint of the GM EOS oil and it should be fine.

Are you sure it's a double spring and not just an outer spring with a dampener inside? The dampener is a flat wound spring-looking thing, but not really a spring. I don't know much about big blocks, but that cam seems fairly tame and I would doubt it calls for a true double spring, but I could be wrong. I don't think it's necessary to remove the dampener on break-in, but hopefully someone else knows for sure.

Al, it is a dampener spring. (Flat wound spring) Comp Cams states on cams that require "dual springs", the inner spring must be removed. I hope I am misunderstanding the instructions. I guess the inner dampener (flat wound spring) is not the same as a true "dual spring"...???

I think the best thing to do is give Comp`s tech line a call when they open tomorrow just to be safe...
Thanks

Gene,
With the proper tools, removing and reinstalling the inner springs is really a pretty easy job. Its all part of building a performance engine. With as many problems as people have been having with camshafts, and the fact that Comp really likes a lot of spring pressure compared to some, there is no way I would start the engine and break the cam in without removing the springs. The best thing would have been to leave tham out when the heads were assembled. That would have made it a lot easier. The real quick way to failure in the engine building game is to try and cut corners, it will "bite" you every time. A on the car valve spring compressor is pretty cheap compared to what damage you can do to the enigne :( This is one similar to the one I use: http://www.spiderautomotive.com/valsprincom.html

Has anyone determined if we are talking about removing the dampener spring? Is this the procedure for a factory performance engine such as a 302?

Gary, thats what I`m trying to figure out... I`m going to call Comp tomorrow & find out whether they are refering to a double spring set up, or spring with dampener. I hate the instructions you get when you purchase things like this... They cover every cam they sell, & it`s really up to the consumer to figure out if a specific procedure applys to their cam...

ene,
If it is just a damper and not a true second spring, then you should not have to remove it as it does not contribute much to spring pressure. I am betting it is a 911 spring and you should be ok.

Bill, it is a 911-16 spring. If thats the case, things just got a little easier...
Thanks,

Has anyone determined if we are talking about removing the dampener spring? Is this the procedure for a factory performance engine such as a 302?

Factory 302's used the same valve spring pressure as a grocery-getter 307 (85# closed, 200# open); factory SB cams didn't use "Godzilla" springs. :)

I wouldn't use the stock 325hp BB lo-po valve springs b/c they are only good for, well stock cams, imho!!

.398"/.430" lift or so!! (AND peak out right at .500"??).......

Or are you talking about 350/360hp motor cam's valve springs??

pdq67

I have the same deal with my cam break in I got flat wound inner springs and comp cam outer springs when you contact Comp Cams let us know what they say. My engine is out of car right now so I don't mind taking out inner springs but after it is broke in while in car I have to remove headers and to get air adapters in spark plug holes to get springs back in and it is just alot of extra work but if I have to I will don't want to ruin new engine.
Edd

Spoke to the Comp Cams help line & was told the damper springs will NOT need to be removed during break in. :hurray:
Thanks again everyone!

spoke to two different cam people and stopped by Crane Cam and asked them they all said Damper springs you can leave as is for break in just follow normal break in procedure