I want a streetable near 400 HP and 450 FT/LB torque motor for my Z/28. I want to use stock cowl induction air cleaner,highrise intake,Holley carb,valve covers,small distributor,ect..you get the idea. I have a 400 that I could build like the Impersonator that was in CHP (stock crank-5.7 rods-Comp Cams or Lunati 280 cam-subsitute 180 Iron Eagle heads for Vortecs) or should I just buy a crate motor? Keep in mind for it to look stock aluminum heads are out and adapters for center bolt V/C are $140.00. I would like to keep the budget near the 5k area or close. Ideas Please

In my experience, the stock valve covers will not clear roller rockers without modification to the PCV baffles. The stock alternator bracket could be an issue if you use an aftermarket intake. The cowl air cleaner should work fine if you stay with stock distributor dimensions (you'll just need to tailor the spacer height based on manifold height). Most aftermarket heads won't allow the use of the factory choke setup. The factory fuel line gets very close to the headers down by the subframe.

Sure, just internally balance a 383 or 400 motor and just use worked over set of stock, big valved heads along with needed quench distance and headgasket and pistons to get you to about 9.75 to 1 CR.

More then likely you will need to pick up good smog chambered heads so you can run flat-top pistons b/c the old double hump heads have such small chambers that would require the less eff. dished or stepped pistons to get the CR. in there....

Then add a good 275 to 280, (.480" high lift type), addvertised duration cam, a set of four tube long headers, a good old stock Q-Jet and cast-iron intake you have played a little with and I think you should be close, imho...

But the balancer has to be smooth, otherwise those in the know will know you are running a 400 crank!!!

I figure an RPM or Stealth intake and a Holley will make more power BUT they aren't stock looking!! But if you don't mind being a little off, then go with the stock, Z-28 aluminum intake and matching Holley...

pdq67

PS., but again, headers scream non-stock performance!!! AND cast-iron exhaust manifolds really choke a motor down....

You can get some good info on stock appearing cast iron manifolds and exhaust systems at www.castheads.com (http://www.castheads.com) . I have one of his hogged out iron Q-jet manifolds and it is very nice.

if you use the stock intake, distributor (with an electronic conversion just for reliability), and valve covers from a 69 Z/28, it will look and fit like stock. how many people will bother to look at the balancer to see if it's externally balanced or not? aluminum heads can be painted, you know, and if you want to get really crazy, you could blast them to make them look like cast iron and even nave someone weld or machine "camel humps" onto the front surface just like the stock heads. headers don't "scream" performance- there are plenty of stocker posers out there with headers, and on a car like a Z/28, they are almost expected on anything except an overly restored investment type car (i know i'm gonna get flamed for that). but, there are also some pretty fast cars out there with "stock APPEARING" manifolds, as well.
as for roller rockers and the stock valve covers, just use either Crane or GMPP low profile rockers made for late model engines. they are available with or without the self guiding tip, and will probably fit under and stock valve cover without any mods.

1st off thanks everybody...novaderrik your ideas are very close to what I had in mind (I'm new here but I think you're even a little more nuts than me LOL). I'm not trying to fool the people who really now what they are looking at I just don't want it look all "streetrod". I was going to do an internal balance anyway but that was a good point pdq67. For headers I was thinking about Streetrod Works SS because they are suppose to have good ground clearence an they look more steath (no HPC). What heads do you guys like on this type of motor (I'm not worried about heat crossovers)? Is there any aftermarket intake that is a direct replacement for a stock Z/28 hi-rise if I can't find 1 reasonable? I'm not too concerned with having the correct choke either. I'm after something that appears "period correct" until you really stop and take a good look. In no way am I trying to fool a purist or judge. Again thanks everyone for helping a new guy. Jack

http://i23.ebayimg.com/02/i/01/4e/af/6a_1.JPG

The Edelbrock C3BX looks similar to the original manifold. It has the filler tube in the front, fat runners, won't fit an HEI. I found this one on eBay and it's up in 6 days. It's at $50 now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459321409&category=34215

For $275 you can get the real thing:

http://i9.ebayimg.com/02/i/01/4d/65/8e_1_sb.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459276670&category=34202

OK new guy Jack....Here are a few things for you to think about. I am assuming that you are doing a 69 Z right? If so, here is what I suggest but first a picture for you to hum and hah over....

http://www.x33d80.com/images/DZ302_3.jpg

This stock looking DZ Motor (mine) has a set of Bowtie Phase I (ported) over the counter GM Performance Cast Iron Heads on it with the stock intake. I was going to go out and machine the fronts of the heads to match the 186 casts but that was getting stupid. It looks very stock and this is the ideal look for any Z28 car if you want to build more ponies and keep it somewhat stock looking.

I would nix the idea of a 400 block or the breathers in the valve covers will become a dead give away as the crank case is vented up through the heads. Stick with an 010 block and build a killer mouse motor like a 355 or 383. Then match up some cast iron heads, a stock intake, matching holley carb, and throw in a shot of boost juice for the one that might get away.

That will surely have you running the HP and Torque you need without it being a dead give away. The motor above could be a 302, 350, 383ci and nobody would be the wiser right? Hell it could be 350, 400 or even 500 horsepower and they still would not know. Thats when you turn it over and simply smile while driving away with that big smirk on your face as they hear that "HUGE" camshaft.

One last word for you. That picture above has stock valve covers, and under those are screw in studs, guide plates, and Crane Blazer Roller Rockers. So the answer here is yes they can fit! Just takes a bit of work to get everything to clear. If you then want to add electronic spark, install a Pertronix Kit into a stock looking distributor and hide the MSD 6A in the glove box.

Just my two bits worth and I hope this helps you envision the right solution.

Originally posted by hugger_sixty_nine:
I would nix the idea of a 400 block or the breathers in the valve covers will become a dead give away as the crank case is vented up through the heads. huh :confused: . i think i'm missing something here. if i understand correctly, what your saying is the 400 block is different in its block venting configuration? speaking about the block itself, i'm going to have to say "no". the block the 400 uses is similar in almost every way to the others, except for bore size, bore siameseing (due to bore size), occasional freeze plug config. differences and a hump here and there externally that say a 350 doesnt have. the last two being the only way to recognize a 400 externally. (if internally balanced). how it vents only depends on what intake/valve cover system you use.
in fact, i have a 406 in my car, that looks like the spitting image of your motor, (yours is very nice, i might add). except it now has aluminum heads, which i had to fight myself not to paint orange, btw. right down to the Z style valve covers. so, i may have misunderstood you, but if not, i just thought i'd point those things out. graemlins/beers.gif

i, too, was confused by the 400 block venting deal. every stock 400 i've seen has looked like a same year 350 with a bigger balancer on it.

If it was up to me I would have a 406 with dart 200 or 215 iron eagle heads and a solid roller.