I have a 69 camaro 350 w/dual fuel lines, convertible.

Last year my gauge stuck at less than 1/4 full.
After the winter months I started to work on it.
This year I replaced the fuel tank, a new dual sender unit, and a new wire from tank to plug-in at rear of trunk. Also cleaned area around the new ground wire above the passenger side of tank.
I have read some post about another ground; the tank itself to car frame, correct?

I Put in 10 gallons and gauge still shows less than 1/4 full. It has not moved.

Does that indicate the ground on the dash gauge?
I will have to remove radio to get to it.

I have researched lots of good topics.

I Have never used an ohms meter.

do a search in electrical, lots of info on this.

Basically, The guage gets 12v ignition and ground off the dash harness. The sender wire is tan all the way. If the sender wire is "open" (disconected) the guage will go past full. If it's shorted (connected to ground), guage will read empty. Reading a 1/4 is kinda weird.

I'd start by unpluging the rear lighting harness from the dash harness, see what the guage does. Guage goes full, problems to the rear of the plug. Guage doesn't move, start pulling the dash.

i'd guess that the gauge is screwed up- maybe the needle is hitting the gauge face and not allowing it to move. that happens sometimes.
i assume you've tried the "smack the top of the dash wit the palm of your hand" mod already, correct? or maybe the "flick the gauge face with your finger" mod would be more appropriate. hell, sometimes the "throw a screwdriver across the garage and curse the day you ever thought you wanted to own an old car" mod works, too, for whatever reason.

You might be right on the stuck pointer.
I will take off the face of the gauge and see if I can loosen it up.
Pounding with hand around the gauge has not done anything yet; maybe I need a bigger hammer.

easiest first test would be to disconnect the tan sender wire. It connects in the trunk, on my '68 it's on the same connector as the license plate light. Disconnect, see if the guage goes to full.

Disconnected tan wire from the fuel tank and still stuck at 1/4.
Shouldn't the sender unit "tan" wire be hot?

On the connector that the tan wire goes into also has the license bracket light on it. The license bracket wire is on the other side of the connector from the tan wire from the sender unit. It is hot on that side. The other side with the sender unit is getting no fire.

the wire to the sender is the ground- all the gauge does is show how much resistance there is on the ground side of the gauge circuit, because the sender is just a potentiometer (i think that's what it's called) just like in the hand control on a slot car track.
a good test to see of the gauge works is to hold the fuel gauge sender wire directly to a ground with the key turned on and see if the gauge jumps around- if it does, at least you know the gauge works.

grounded the sending unit wire and still no movement.
Must be stuck or something; will start removing dash...

Finally found the problem.
After re checking all the fuses again, this time with a check light, I found the gauge fuse was not carrying any current.
Although it was visually OK, the check light showed no connection.
After replacing it. the gauge performed as it was suppose to.
Got to be lucky sometimes....

By the way, in the fuse box, to the left of the gauge fuse, is a real small fuse that I am not getting any fire from either side. (small fuse on the bottom row of fuses in the middle "inst LPS". (69 camaro)

Any of you electricians know what it does or should it be hot??

Dash lights, only hot with the headlight switch either in the parking light position, or headlight position. It's fed from the headlight switch.

Thanks Mark, that makes sense..(sorry I got into the wrong section; should be in electrical)

I have just developed another problem.

I have been charging the battery for some time; All of a sudden I lose fire to all the car. The fuse panel was not getting any fire.
I started to chase it down. I am getting fire to the regulator so far and into the back of the fuse pane at the dash panell. Now I am getting fire to the left side of the, under dash, fuse panel only. None of the fuses on the right hand side are getting any fire. Is the wiring set up that way?

Could an overcharge cause something like that?

With a remote start wire starter and engine turns over good. Ignition switch is getting nothing.

Will be studying the assembly instructions tonight.

I may start a new thread in the electrical section.