i'm putting together a 8.5 10 bolt for my '69 and hoped to instal it this weekend. i set the R&P up myself (and I've crossed all my fingers hoping it's right) but i can't get get the crush sleeve to crush! I've tried my air gun and just a big extension, but i guess i'm not burly enough to do it! any tips on getting this done? it's sure a job holding the yoke and trying to tighten it. i'm just using your basic home garage type air gun and compressor. maybe i need something bigger???

its not there to be really crushed it hold pressure on the bearings. did you set your rolling torque yet?

It is there to b e crushed, that's the truth, and it does set the end tension for the pinion bearings. That's the way it has always worked, and does, even today.

Now, for the crush problem, I always start the crush in my press, then install and finish. The crush sleeve is a real pain to get going the way you are doing it. I use a special pipe wrench type of thing with a 4 foot bar, either with the diff on the ground or the pipe against the floor, and the same 4 foot bar on a 3/4 inch tommy bar and socket (welded together), and it is still a bear to do the operation, even after starting the crush sleeve collapse in my press.

If you try the pre-crush method, please use a press, so the sleeve will collapse straight and not on an angle. I use the old sleeve for reference as to just how much to pre-collapse the new one, and I leave about 1/8 inch to go from the pressing.

You can do this operation with smaller tools, 1/2 inch sockets and breaker bars, just fine, but please use other people help, long leverage from pipe or other extensions, and watch out for the socket slipping off the nut while tightening. Just be careful. This is the most pain in setting a pinion up as far as physical effort is concerned.

Make sure you end up with a slight drag on the pinion flange, and this is measurable with an inch-pound torque wrench to get right, must use beam type inch pound torque wrench to do the job right. You will be measuring the amount of drag the pinion/flange has in inch pounds of rolling resistance, as mentioned in the previous post. Specs for your particular pinion rotating tension (drag) are covered in aftermarket or factory spec sections of their publications and install info sent with the gear set.

Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 09-13-2000).]

Most aftermarket crush sleeves have the center section radiused out a little, to cause the sleeve to crush in this area. As I-man state, it is really a two-man job. I have done it with a cheater and a long bar to hold the pinion, but it definitely takes two people. A good 1/2" impact will crush the sleeve, but I don't like them because it is too easy to go "too far". Once you've gone too far, you're screwed, it's time to start over. Take care.

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69 SSRS Frame-off Resto
81 Z-28 377ci Drag Car

I work on Chevy 8.5 10 bolts every day, and have always used an impact to crush the sleeves. You cannot use a plain-jane-run-of-the-mill impact, however. A good quality one, like Ingersol Rand, Mac, Matco, or Snap-on impact should do the job. The examples using long pipes, pipe wrenches, etc. is also very good advise. Good luck.

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70 & 1/2 RS
SB406 & M20 4spd
9" rear

70 Malibu 350/TH400

Gold member #103
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The big extention will reduce the output of the inpact wrench try it without the extention.
I agree with most of the previous replys, but if you think getting the crush sleeve adjustment right is the only thing you need to get right you might try praying in addition to crossing your fingers.
If the play between the ring and pinion is too tight or lose you will have problems.
The center section(ring gear housing)also has a bearing preload.
If the contact pattern isn't right it will howl louder than your Flowmasters.
These are just a few things to be aware of when rebuilding differentials you might want to consider getting some prefessional help.

Also, most home air compressors have 120 psi max, most shops have big two stage compressors that make up to 175 psi. That makes the air tools really scoot!

Most air tools are rated for or at 90 psi. But most tire shops etc, run them at the higher pressures.
Any extensions on the air tool will reduce the torque as there is a hammer inside the air wrench and the extension absorbs the shock forces to some extent.
David

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67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

Guy's I'm just curious, if you over tighten with an impact can you loosen it and retighten it to the desired preload.

I like adjustible crush sleeves made by Richmond gear. Its a solid crush sleeve with a shim assortment from .10"-.22". It's easier to use and is reuseible. Do other's agree?.

I also used the Richmond solid spacer with the shim adjustment with much success. No need for a monster impact wrench.



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Rick,

The answer is NO. Once you crush the sleeve past a certain point, you cannot go backwards, or the pinion bearings will not have the correct preload. That is why you NEVER use the crush sleeve while setting up the pinion depth. Once you have determined the correct shims to get the pinion depth right, then you put the crush sleeve on for final assembly. Also, crush sleeves are NOT reusable. Hope this helps. Take care.

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69 SSRS Frame-off Resto
81 Z-28 377ci Drag Car

If I remember correctly, both Ford and Chrysler used the shim and stack type pinion preload methods, many years ago. As Racer, BBK say, they were easy to do. I wasn't aware they were available aftermanket.

Rick, you should use a new crush sleeve every time the yoke is removed or loosened, to do it right. Yup, it's a pain.