Hi all.

Well, I've got this new 355 engine mounted on the subframe and almost ready to fire... when I run into a problem.

Well, I have a Performer RPM air-gap intake topping off the motor, and it has a pair of 1/2'' holes into the water passages by the thermo housing, and another pair of smaller (3/8''?) holes at the rear.

I bought some aluminum adonized plugs from summit for the 1/2'' holes and plugged them up. I believe they are 14 thread? Went in fine.

Well, today I decide to remove one in order to install a temperature sender... and to my surprise the thing is in there very tight. Both are! When I got the one out, it had marred the thread a bit...

So my question is... what do I do now? And, what thread of plug is supposed to go in there? When I put them in they didn't take much to get in, but now they are in there solid... what happened?

any help is greatly appreciated. I almost have the motor ready to fire and then this! Ack!

Boodle, were they installed dry?

Sounds like you are victim of galling.

I had the same thing happen to me....it could be worse...I had one stick in an aluminum head http://www.camaros.net/forum/rolleyes.gif

You'll need to use teflon paste on those plugs.

Worst case, you could drill/cut/chisel out the damaged plug and re-tap it using a 1/2 pipe thread tap available at Home Depot etc. for $12.95.

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Don~ ZZ430DropTop (http://hometown.aol.com/zz430droptop67rs)
~~~~and~~~~
70 RS/Z28 (http://hometown.aol.com/performancespecs)
67 RS/SS Convertible, 70 RS/Z28



[This message has been edited by ZZ430DropTop67RS (edited 07-10-2002).]

I knew this subframe-off restoration project was going too smoothly... I had to go and mess up somewhere! http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

Thank you for the response... yes I installed them dry. I still can't believe how bad it was. They didn't seem to give much resistance when I put them in, but getting them out was sure a bear.

Well, I suppose I'll try chasing those threads down. I had better, it is a brand new intake!

I will look for some teflon paste (never heard of paste before, only tape) and try to put some new ones in.

Oh, I've also done some updates to my website, including some info about the new motor and I am under construction (about half done) with a long piece on the front subframe refinishing. Check it out all! www.geocities.com/boodlefoof (http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof)

Looks like the resto is going pretty good. I have me engine out and all the front end sheetmetal off as well. Had to perform some rust repair on the firewall and on the lower cowling but at least they no repro the parts i needed. Have you tried the POR marine Cleaner on the the frame itself yet and how did it work. My 68 has never been cleaned prior to my taking her apart.

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Jeff 67/68 & 69 RS's
65 442
http://hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro/index.html

Boodlefoof,
Aluminum will go together fine dry, then you'll experience what you had happen during removal. Teflon tape or paste will work. On the Turbine engines we use Liqui-Moly especially on the fuel control filter housings for the same reason, and they're only torqued to 100 INCH pounds, but will gall if put together dry.

Dave

thanks again for the responses.

HawaiianCamaro,
Yes, I did try to use Marine Clean on the subframe itself, but it wasn't working too well. The crud on there was just too thick. Maybe if I had soaked it in straight Marine Clean... but that would require a large tub. As it was, I was basically using a brush to just slosh the goo around, kind of like as if I were painting it on! Using a pressure washer like you use for a house, I was able to get off a lot of the big chunks... then the sandblaster took care of the rest. I'll have more pages up detailing the continuing story of the restoration.

As for the intake then... I am going to try my best to clean up the threads in the intake and then install some new allen head plugs coated with teflon. I hope it works.

Just to follow up...

I borrowed a 1/2'' NPT tapping tool from a friend and it worked just fine. Now the plug and temp sender are in and were liberally coated with Teflon paste. http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

One interesting note about NPT threads: they're tapered so when you tap new threads or clean out old ones you have to pay attention to the depth. I tapped my block for plugs in the large water passage holes above the cylinders. I wanted the plugs just below the deck. If you tap too deep the plugs won't tighten up right.



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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

I actually did notice that. Fortunately, the only threads that were damaged were very close to the top of the hole, so I didn't have to go in too far with the tap. When I fire it up, we will see if it is sealed properly.

i overtightened one in a torker manifold once.... http://www.camaros.net/forum/frown.gif
i had to use liquid weld on the manifold to stop the coolant leak... Duh

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'67 RS 427,4 Speed
Disc brakes,console, fold down rear seat,heater,
Radio Delete, Cowl hood,front,rear spoilers,
Black/black; white bumblebee stripe
Click to see my Camaro (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/8a118c5b/bc/camaro+pics/67rscamaro427email.jpg?bcw8KV9A97U9f2_Q)

Just a thought.... how badly were the threads damaged? Just wondering how much aluminum fell down into the intake.

I thought about that problem as well, but they weren't damaged badly, and I don't think much got in there. I also stuck the ol' shop vac over the hole and tried to suck out as much as I could, but didn't hear much come out.

Try slobbing the tap with grease. It will help hold the chips to the tool.

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The Red Beast http://www.geocities.com/casanoc

I would recommend the old "Never or Anti-Seize" stuff made with Moly. It's slightly courser then camshaft moly. pdq67