i have a 1967 camaro with a 350, 4 speed manuel. about a week ago a stud( with what apears to be a ball joint at the end)broke off that supported the clutch linkage. did i mention that it broke off on the engine block( that is what screwed me) so i took off the headers and clutch linkage so i can get an angle dill in order to get the stud out with an easy-out. but the drill is not cheap. i went searching for hydraulic system. when i found company that sold hydraulic throwout bearings i emailed them asking if that could replace a linkage style. i either got a no or a no reply. sorry this is so long but the final question is can the old style clutch linkage be replaced with a hydraulic one. if so any suggestions where.

Yes but it requires more than just a hydraulic throwout bearing. You would also need clutch master cylinder, possible modifications to your pedal to hook it up, and a teflon braided flex line to join the two. Instead of a hydraulic throwout bearing you could put a clutch slave cylinder on with the stock fork and throwout bearing. Either way it's a lot of work and probably $400-$500. minimum. I think the hydraulic throwout bearing is $300. or so by itself. I would probably fix what you have.

Jody

I wish I had an angle drill sometimes, one time I needed a hole drilled that needed one and since I don't have one I took my air powered angle grinder and used the same size bit as the shank of the griding wheel. Luckily the size of the hole I needed was the same size as the bit that fit in the angle grinder. Anyway just trying to give you another idea, or by the drill, use it and then take it back.

there's always the rental yard as well.

BTW - how the heck did you break that stud? That's a fairly stout piece as I remember it.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

Couple things here. Is the pivot broke off right at the block or is there a shoulder still on there, if so try to hit the shoulder with a chisel and hammer to turn it out. IF not the threaded part should not be bottomed out and you may be able to take a dremel tool and cut a slot in the stud, then turn it out with a screwdriver. The hydraulic deal is probably not feasible as the master cylinder has to be mounted on the firewall and that is a pretty tough deal usually.

I discussed at length the hydraulic T/O bearing with the company you don't mention.

I was willing to use either the mechanical or hydraulic but they said stick to the factory mechanical linkage.

The hydraulic system is great in racecars where fabricating/fitment of a mechanical linkage may be more difficult than mounting a slave cylinder. Plus, they tend to leak. There were a bunch sitting on a workbench waiting to be repaired.

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You could make a bracket to position the ball over the broken stud hole.
It would be easier if you used a lakewood type bellhousing.

You'd probably have to weld the broken ball piece to the bracket to keep it short, and maybe put some washers under the outboard frame bracket to even it out.

Steilo did a hyd clutch conversion on a firstgen camaro and used an 80's complete setup, master and slave. It comes fully bled and ready to go according to the article. He had to make a mount to the firewall for the master cyl.

Here's a really cool 90degree air drill. You have to use the special bits, and it's close to $300.00 but works great. That's a fairly good price for an air angle drill. I have a black and decker 3/8" electric angle drill and it is not very short by the time you put a drill bit in it, even if it's a short bit.
http://www.browntool.com/category.asp?ParentCode=K368&HeaderURL=&FooterURL=&CategoryTitle=SPECIALS

David

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Check my web page for suspension info:
David's Homepage (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 07-30-2000).]

well what can i say you have provided more than enough ideas. thanks alot. i have purchased a cheap angle drill bit adapter from " harbor frieght" (i am hoping that it will last atleast this one job). this is how i probably broke the stud.... cruising down a local street at around 45 mph i bottomed out hard, real hard due to road construction leaving a small trench about 3 in. deep in the road. my camaro needs new front springs and probably shocks, so the car was low and when i bottomed out. i was surrprised i hadn't ripped the oil pan off. i noticed the clutch problems the next day. but that is the only possible explanation other than it simply broke off. The stud did not brake flush with the engine. there seems to be about a 1 mm valley ( it would have been nice if it broke off the opposite way so i could use tom3's idea) i think i'll try with the angle drill, and use an easy-out if i mess up real bad i'll try a hydraulic system or something else thanks for your time and ideas.

Is there enough room to see the drill bit on the stud while you drill since the stud broke off below flush?
In a tight spot it's sometimes hard to start an angle drill centered and keep it going straight, especially if you can't see where its drilling. Granted the stud diameter is large, it would be easy to damage the threads if you're off a little.
If you can't get at it with a punch and hammer(unlikely) try a small angled pick and see if you can snag it and turn it. If you're very lucky it may be loose in the hole and turn out.
If you were thinking about going the hydraulic clutch route and the work that it would entail, you may just want to pull the engine. I know it's a pain, but you would get a straight shot at it with a center punch and drill. If you have or could get your hands on (rent?) a cherry picker you could also save some bucks.
If you try the angle drill adapter and your drill motor is the reversible kind, get some left hand drill bits and drill, sometimes the bits will bite and turn out the stud if its not real tight.
Just some thoughts, good luck.



[This message has been edited by Hp2x426 (edited 07-31-2000).]