Fired my 406 today, after fighting with starter/flexplate alignment and painless wiring. Engine won't idle and dies. I noticed water dripping from the pass side headers and check the oil. And sure enough there's that dreaded milky white substance.
I'm using AFR 195 heads but don't remember using sealer in the studs. Would water leak from there? I hope it's not the block, I have it machined by a reputable shop. The engine only ran for about 1 minute at the most.
Also how can I clean or flush the engine to get rid of the water. Pls. help, Mahalo, Kiko.

Yes, you should use something like good old Indianhead shellac gasket cement on the head bolts as well as the rocker arm studs, plus anywhere else you want to use it..

OR at least something that is made to seal bolts in possible water installations... It's usually an on-going topic as new stuff hit's the market..

Just change your oil and filter after you seal everything up.. AND don't forget to retorque all your bolts to be doubly sure they are right!!

Hiope you don't have a small crack or possibly a sand cast pin-hole??

Good luck..

pdq67

With studs you HAVE TO really seal up the threads in the block well. A lot of people will not use studs for that reason. In fact, if it were my motor, I would remove the studs one at a time and replace them with bolts instead.

I would try running a compression test first so you know if you have a cracked cylinder or bad head gasket. It might be more work, but with a brand new build I'd play it safe and take it apart.

I've cleaned them out with kerosene before, but its a lot of work and have never done it for motors with water in the oil --- only engines with bad cam lobes etc. You just keep flushing the engine out through the lifter valley and cylinder heads until the kerosene runs clean out the oil drain plug. (we used 2-3 gallons of kero doing a BBC last summer). Then I put a couple quarts in the pan and spin the oil pump driveshaft with a drill until kerosene runs clean through the oil filter supply hole (do it without a filter). Then you fill the engine up with a light detergent oil, run it for a while and change the oil again. Last time I did this the engine puffed a lot of white smoke for a few minutes, then ran fine after we changed the oil again. I WOULD NOT go this route if you have not broke in your flat tappet cam yet - the thin oil and kero contamination in the oil could affect cam break in.

After flushing/cleaning/sealing, whichever route you chose, be sure to retorque heads, cast iron heads = do it right after cam break-in, while engine is hot. Alum heads = the following day after cool down to ambient temperature.

Do not use an RTV silicone based sealant for sealing the studs to water jacket, it doesn't work.

Yes, I'm using head studs and didn't seal it too. Also using roller cam and rockers.
Is it best to take the heads off, seal the studs and flush the engine with solvent ( I have about 3 gal left of solvoil from the re-built) or just do a complete take down?
What is the best brand of sealant to use?
Can I re use the head gaskets?
Mahalo for the replies.

As pdq67 suggested, Indianhead shellac, or I suggest Permatex A200, will do just fine. Sealing of studs can be done w/out removing the heads, just reach down and unscrew, coat, re-install stud. Re-torque head.

No, IMO, you would not need to tear apart the engine for flushing. As Eric68 suggests, doing it in the car will be fine. What the flush doesn't get, the first oil change will.

If heads do come off the block, new gaskets are in order.

The Indianhead stuff comes in a shoe polish type bottle with a dauber!!

Daub a big spot on the threads and daub a big spot under the head or nut/washer, (and it will make a mess), but you will be good to go, imho...

pdq67

I had the same problem the first time I tried to use head studs. I did use sealer and they still leaked, I used the ARP sealer (I didn't care for it). What I did is remove the studs one ata time and replced them with bolts. Never had a nother problem of course you still need sealer on the bolts as well.

Where do you find this Indianhead Shellac? I don't think I have ever seen it. I have used the Permatex with great success.

Originally posted by camaroman7d:


Where do you find this Indianhead Shellac? I don't think I have ever seen it. I have used the Permatex with great success. On the dustiest isle in an old NAPA in an old part of town ;) Its still around at the older parts stores.

I personally use the ARP thread sealant with bolts and have never had a problem. I like PDQs suggestion about using it on the face of the bolt too - kind of like a second seal.

The stuff is actually part of the Permatex family of products.

It is kinda like a liquid Permatex #2 gasket cement..

GREAT STUFF, imho!!!!!

pdq67

I feel a little better now after I saw all you guy's replies. I'll follow your suggestions and will let you know the outcome when I'm done.
I'll use Permatex Hi Temp thread sealant that I found at their site. One of the mentioned sealant application was for head bolt installa-
tion. Mahalo again for the replies.