Could someone recommend a good waterpump for a 383 stroker. Don't need it overheating on me. thanks for any recommendations.

I would try an Edelbrock or a Stewart Warner.

Or http://www.stewartcomponents.com I've had very good luck with mine.

rick

The Stewart Warner sr71bb mentioned and the Stewart Components rick mentioned are one in the same. They are excellent pumps.

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Sam

1984 4X4 s-10.
327 / 340hp, 340 ft lbs
700-r4 tranny 3.73 posi

Can anybody tell me why a higher volume pump is needed. In my experience, mostly with stock engines, removing the thermostat will cause an engine to overheat due to flowing through the radiator too fast to dissipate heat. If a stock pump can flow too much, why is more volume needed. Please shed some light on the subject. I've never understood the need for a high volume W/P unless maybe with a huge radiator.

thats a great question, i will be doing a 383 buildup as soon as i can and i need to get all of the info that i can and that would help.

nate

Go to the Stewart site and read their tech section where it will explain these things. Stock pumps don't flow too much. I have the Stage 2 Stewart and have no cooling issues.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's

1 more vote for the Stewart pump. I also have an aluminum stage 2 pump and it is great. The myth about too fast/much flow just isn't true. If the water is staying in the radiator longer, then it is also staying in the engine longer (which creates even more heat). You need good flow and a large enough and effeciant radiator.

Royce

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70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
91 Camaro RS V8 (305 TBI)
Link to my 70

http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

I won't dispute if a high flow works better or not. There is plenty of testomony to say it does. I have a question to those using a high flow, Did you have overheating prior to changing the pump? Was the pump the only change you made or was is a wholesale replace the cooling system?

Now my observations, Stock systems work amazingly well when in proper working order. When the factory made performance mods they made small changes to compensate and it worked...

A t-stat is both a switch and a restrictor. Even when fully open it still restricts the flow some... Keep that in mind as you read the rest of this...

Let's look at a garden hose, Crack the valve on and water flows out the end of the hose. Put your thumb over the end and partially block the opening and it builds up pressure in the hose and even though the water comes out faster, less comes out. Open the valve some more and your thumb (the restrictor) feels more pressure, but even though the water moves faster there really isn't that much more coming out the end. It just shoots farther. Enough about garden hoses.... Apply the same to a cooling system. It's a balancing act that works the best. Is a high flow necessary? It wasn't from the factory! I don't have all the answers, this is just some food for thought!

Good points, Dennis. In my case I bought the car with a leaking 2 core radiator and stock pump with the bearings starting to go. I went the overkill route with the Stewart pump, Griffin radiator and Stewart t-stat ( high flow because they drill 3 holes in it to allow some flow until it opens ). I agree a stock system in fine shape will work unless you have some extraordinary requirements. Per Stewart, I also went to a higher pressure cap ( 20# ) .

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's

Supposedly, the high performance pumps have better side-to-side flow balance. I would think that was worth something too.

Thanks for the info guys, though I'm still not convinced that a high flow pump is necessary unless in race situations with large radiators. And even then, what about the T-stat. It would still restrict flow unless completely removed. I realize that coolant flowing too slowly will cause overheating such as a radiator that is restricted but I've also worked on a car two that overheated without a thermostat and fixed them by putting in the 'stat. Anyway, I appreciate the answers. Best of luck on your 383