(I could have sworn I already asked this recently... couldn't find it)

2000 Silverado owners.... please tell me I'm not crazy and that the dealership is not hosing me on this.
Since October the front brakes squeal like a schoolbus. It's really getting on my nerves and as usual is unacceptable. The brake pads and rotors are brand new GM pieces. I've had it back to the dealer TWICE and all they keep telling me is "there's nothing wrong." I beg to differ! I have the only pickup in the land that squeals to a stop once the brakes have warmed up after a few miles of stop lights.

This week they supposedly "de-glazed" the pads but it came right back. I haven't yanked a wheel yet but I have to agree with them that the pads are somehow getting glazed. I can sometimes hear them squeal while just driving along at a slow speed. Especially while turning. I told them I thought the calipers might be dragging but they found nothing wrong.

I'm the type of driver that, by habit, anticipates a stop or the need to slow down so I have my foot off the accelerator and I start braking so that I don't have to slam them at the last few seconds. I watch myself all the time to make sure I'm not riding them. I'm NOT! I thought I was maybe riding them for an excessive amount of time but I don't drive this truck any differently from any other vehicle I've owned. I might brake a little sooner than a smaller vehicle but not for a half a mile or anything! JEEESH!

The pads are GM metallic, correct? The service manager explained that it's part of the reason. But that doesn't explain the whole reason! The rotors look fine and like I said, I haven't verified the glazed pads yet. I'd hate to take them off and find out they're NOT glazed. Because then I and the dealership would have something to talk about. :mad:
I asked him if replacing the pads with a set from AutoZone might make a difference and he said they wouldn't. I still want to try it. What can be done to remedy a dragging caliper? It 'seems' to only be in the front.
Ideas?

I have a 2000 Tahoe which is the SAME truck, I also have squeaky brakes, went ahead and replaced all 4 wheels with new pads from AutoZone (cheapest brand metallics because they give better and don't destroy rotors!! Cheaper to replace pads then rotors)
The verdict??
DID NOT FIX IT, she still squeaks at times, not as bad as you but it does squeak. We are probably trading her in for a 2005 Honda Pilot AWD with Leather/NAV in the near future so I'm not sweating it, but I feel your pain.
I recommend making sure you are running shims on those pads (they should come integrated with the pad), then add some aftermarket cut to your own fit shim material (available at auto store) to the back of them, oh and clean everything good with brake cleaner too), and you had the rotors turned right?, Hopefully all this will prevent the squeal.

What ever you do to fix this - please do not let the Dealer (or anyone else) lead you down the "let's-turn-the-rotors" trail for brake noises...
If the rotors are warped/cracked replace them - if the new ones mount-up (without turning!) with excessive 'run-out' exchange them for good ones. Don't bother with turning new rotors - it won't fix anything - if they aren't machined correctly from the factory/supplier get different ones - don't 'Re-pay' for their machine work.
New rotors DO NOT need to be turned - they are fully finished ready to use out of the box...

The "noise" is generated by the resonance of the Pad ('floating') vibrating in the Caliper (Semi-floating) - not the Rotor.
Use of some of the after-market "goo's", such as 'Disc-Brake-Quiet' on the pads at installation can help dampen the resonance and cure most of the squeal. Shimming the pads to remove excess play will also help - sometimes.

Brian's suggestion of using the Softer/Cheaper pads is also a good compromise in reducing noise in most these situations.
GM spec.d pretty hard pads on these to try to overcome the common "socker mom" complaints at the dealers that they needed brakes every 5~7K miles because they drove the pi$$ out of them - braking way late most the time.
Cuz' is at a dealer in So.Cal. that gives a print-out of the "Anti-Lock Excursions" (read -times the system bailed their 'ars' out of a skid) to every customer with a big SUV when they do a brake service. Way to many of them are driving on the edge of their 3+ ton vehicles' braking performance most of the time.

As always JMHO...

John

Ahh I didn't notice he said 'new gm rotors', thus you are correct they SHOULD NOT need to be turned, hopefully softer pads, additional shims, and some brake pad goo will make his braking experience quieter. New front pads are like $30 at Autozone for the soft/cheapest ones, they work just fine.

I have a 2000 GMC and I have not had a problem at all (no squeaks). I have ~64,000 miles on it and I will be doing the brakes real soon. This is the first time I have heard this complaint.

are you sure it is in the front. silverados have a tendency to toast the right rear.

I had the same problem but I bypassed the dealer and purchased Raybestous Ceramic pads. Problem solved!!! and no more black brake dust either!! graemlins/beers.gif

Dave,
Where did you find the Raybestos ceramic pads? Are that not as hard on your rotors as metallic pads? I need to do the brakes on my truck and my Camaro so any input would be great.

I bought them at a local parts house thats a raybestous jobber. Havent noticed any ill effects to the rotors. After 40,000 miles the pads still look new.

I don’t know if it will help but and old trick I learned way back when, was to bevel the brake pads to reduce squeal. We have a 92 sub that had a brake-grabbing problem recently that drove me crazy for a while thinking it was anti-lock related. I ended up replacing both rotors and calipers because the brakes would drag then nearly lock for several miles after being applied. I finally determined that the front brake hoses had a restriction in them that wouldn’t let the brakes release. I’m going to try to find those Raybestos ceramic pads and try them myself!

Pads and rotors usually have to be broke in when new. Excessive ane uneven wear or warped rotors are the results of not breaking them in properly. Uneven wear can cause squeaking... I've found sloppy installations of new pads, floating calipers not riding smoothly on the pins cause uneven wear and squeaking also. If the rotor gets worn from misalignment, new pads don't usually help.

Brand new rotors don't need to be turned but if you've driven the vehicle for several months with the squeak problem, turning them ever so slightly along with new pads and correct assembly is your answer Joe. John (vintage68) mentioned using assembly goo and most pads come with a little package. The back of the pads and pins and any moving parts should get an application but be careful to keep the goo off the pads and rotors. Always use the new clips that come with the pads as well. I've seen the new ones setting on the work bench after a pad job, "the old ones looked fine"!!

I've had excellent results with Raybestos "Quite Stops" they are softer than oe. They wear a bit faster, stop a bit better and are very quite.

Thanks all....

Like I said, I haven't had a chance to tear them apart yet. I know the problem is in the front though. Whatever they did the other day changed the squeak to a higher pitch for the first few stops, then it gets 'schoolbus-like' again. It's at it's loudest and worst the slower I'm rolling. It's quite embarassing in line at Wendy's. :rolleyes:

I'm wondering if there's a line restriction now that Geezer mentions it. It's hard to tell but I hear it the most from the front left. It could be both front's though.... I can't stick my head out of the passenger window and still hit the brakes. ;) I'll get the wife or someone to ride with me and check it out.

I have a can of this blue goop spray that I always use. I'll check for shimming (which I'm sure the dealer must have done) and spray everything down. If all else fails, there's always the "I must have left it unlocked officer!" card I can play. ;)

I finally had ENOUGH of the spine-chilling SQUEAL from the brakes.

I tore into the front drivers side last night because thats the setup I hear it from. I pulled the caliper off, pulled the caliper bracket off and threw everything on the bench.
Other than seeing the inside shoe squeakers touching the bracket the pads are mounted on, there was nothing wrong with the pads. No glazing at all. The rotor looked new still. So I broke all of the pad squeakers off just in case.

I took the pads out of the bracket and sanded the backs, and sprayed them down with anti-squeak. I sanded clean the stainless sleeves that the pads ride on to clean everything up. Then cleaned up the piston surfaces.

I spun the rotor before taking the whole assembly apart and it was hard to turn. The pistons had the shoes firm against the rotor but not so tight that I couldn't turn it at all. That's as they should be. And the calipers float just fine.

I swear to God that the pads are riding the rotor more than they should, but nothing is glazed!

I took it for a spin and within a couple miles, the squeal was back. I even hear it just driving along. I can hear them squeaking even after letting off on the brakes, and while turning corners. But they don't SCREAM until I'm only rolling about 25mph or slower, like coming up to a light. The slower the truck is rolling, the LOUDER it gets. Just like a school bus! graemlins/angry.gif

Like I said, the pads were mint and the rotor was fine. A neighbor said I could try circular-sanding the rotor surface with 80 or 100 grit and seeing what happens. That's my next attempt I guess.
Back to the drawing board! :mad:

I am with Dennis on this one. Just go buy a set of Raybestos "Quite Stops" and be done with it. I too have had good luck with those pads.

They are going on the '67 when it's time for new pads.

Raybestos "Quite Stops" it is!
I'll do a local search and give them a shot.

I bought the Raybestos under the CarQuest name from a local jobber. On my 97 GMC it cured rotor wear issues, stops better and lasts 50K between servicings.

Are these 1/2 tons were talking about? or does it matter?

Stevo, I don't know if it's model specific.

But $70 for the PGD785QS Raybestos pads for the fronts alone makes me queasy! :eek:

I know they aren't cheap but that's the going price but if it solves the problem it will be the best $70 you ever spent.

True, true.... might as well spring for the whole shootin' match then.

What's this deal with the rear passenger caliper self-destructing? Is it something I can take care of now before it happens? Is it emergency brake related? (I don't use the emergency brakes ever) Which parts do I need or is it an inherent problem and the whole assembly needs replacing?

O.E. GM pads won't sqeek but AC-Delco Durastop will but they last longer. I bet you got Delco "Durastops" graemlins/sad.gif

It's hard to tell. They had a long string of letters and numbers on the backs.
The dealer said "they were just replaced with GM parts", and they ARE new. So are the rotors, but I can't tell the pad manufacturer.

Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would tag on to this one. I went out anfd bought the Quiet Stops. I had the truck up in the air the other day to replace the rims and tires. I went to start the brake job and my brakes look like new still. I was shocked, the truck has 65,000 miles on it, the rotors are fine and I am nowhere near the warning scrapers.

How many miles are you guys getting out of your brakes? I don't know if I should just go ahead and replace them or if I should take them back and get my $130 back? I will ge installing a lift kit today so if I am going to replace them now would be the time.

What do you guys think?

This is a 2000 GMC Z71

HwyStarJoe, an old trick is take the pad and a hacksaw and saw a diagonal cut, both directions, of the material. This makes for smaller pieces of material, thus changing the audio frequency to a higher range out of our listening area. Dogs might crumble.

You also might try beer can shims between the pads and caliper. You didn't mention an installed shim, so maybe there isn't one. However, the new assembly may not fit if you say the fit to rotor is tight now.

Royce, whatever manufacturer my pads and rotors are, they're wearing very nicely and I couldn't detect the least amount of wear on either. IF the dealer was honest and they WERE just replaced last Sept. or so, then they have less than 10K on them anyway. Unlike my Blazer that ate pads and rotors every 12K miles!

Everett, is THAT why pads have the split down the middle? Man, I'll cut them up in a heartbeat if it changes the frequency so that I can't hear it anymore! But that seems like a bandaid to a possible problem that might exist.... but like I said, everything looked great on that side. Other than being more snug than I'm used to seeing.
And no, there were no shim(s) on the drivers front. I didn't take the other side apart because it doesn't make any noise.... yet.

But when I did have it apart, I couldn't move the pads even if I wanted to in the caliper or the pad assembly. They were snug against the rotor. I could bearly move the caliper, but it did move a tiny bit. Not enough to move the pads off of the rotor. I'd be a little scared to shim them even more snug. They rub constantly already.... enough to where I can hear the pads squeal against the rotor just driving down the street.

I'll try the cross-cuts first before replacing them. They're too new to just throw away. I know I can use them as cores but if it'll save me $140 for the next 50K miles, I'll cut 'em for now and see what happens.

Joe,
My pads have the cut that Everett mentioned. All the pads have an angle ground/cut on them. Never had a problem with noise.

Royce, the pads on there now are cut down the middle width wise. It's more of a "shaped" look actually. The pad is in two halves with a groove down the middle. I've used pads with and without grooves.

Maybe I'll just cut perpendicular across that groove to make 4 sections and see what happens.

Can't hurt, its only time and that's cheap.

I just ordered a set of Hawk HPS pads from Raceshopper.com for about $60 +/- shipped. They're in Syracuse. Another thought, Joe, if the hacksaw doesn't cure. Since going to aftermarket pads, I have not had problems.

Yeah, I've been reading that article in Chevy High Performance about pads. Someone else asked about Hawk pads here recently.
I'm shopping around. graemlins/thumbsup.gif