I just installed new heads and cam on my 67 327, everything is new except the push rods and rockers. Here's the problem, when I take out all of the lash on the rockers and then give it 1/4 more turn I lose all of the compression in the cylinder. The car will only run if I have some lash on all the rockers, and it really doesn't run well. To get it to run I have to have the timing advanced about 35 deg initial and even then it barely runs. I'm lost any help would grately appriciated.

I'm assuming you set the lifters with the engine off.For all it's worth,I'll tell you what happened when I rebuilt my truck engine last year.When I first fired it up,it ran like crap,backfiring,sputtering,ect.When I did a compression check I had a few dead cylinders,no compression.I set the lifters just like you did,take out lash,1/4 to 1/2 turn tighter.I had just had a valve job done so I suspected the machine shop did a bad job, because I figured some valves were not seating.I called the shop and they said to back off the rocker arm adjustment,or better yet set them with the engine running.They said when reuseing some valve train parts,like us,it's hard to judge the lifter preload.I put on oil deflector clips,and set them.I backed off the nut until I got a little "clatter" then went 1/4 turn tighter.I had some of these almost 1 full turn too tight!So of coarse the valve was being held off the seat.It ran great after I was done!

With your new cam and heads,a Crane with 216 dur as I remember,your carb. will need a little adjusting also,of coarse.This should get it running a little better.
I hope some of this helps!
Lots of edits here sorry.Did you break the cam in yet?If not,you do not want to screw around with the lifters and keep the engine running at 2000RPM+ at the same time.I would suggest maybe backing off on the rockers on the cylinders that you had no compression on,just to get through the break-in period.
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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-16-2000).]

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-16-2000).]

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-16-2000).]

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-16-2000).]

If you have the anit-pump-up lifters, they are only tightened to 1/8 turn.
If they are stock, one half to one turn is OK.
Understand that when you tighten the adjuster the 1 turn, it takes quite a while for the valve to re adjust itself.
I usually either set all valves to zero cold, or run the engine and set all valves to where they click and then tighten them so they just get quiet. Then shut the engine off and add the one turn to each adjuster. Let the engine sit a while, then start.

Well guys, Boy did I screw this one up. First, thanks for the replys but I'm afraid they will not be much help. It's been about ten years since I've built I motor so I went and got a book by Tom Monroe on how to do it (big mistake). I've always adjusted valves like you all said but in this book they said to preload the lifters with oil the tighten the rockers until no lash and then one more turn. This is what I did and guess what. I ended up with too much preload mainly because the lifters loaded with oil now act like solid lifters and partly because one turn is too much. Now the end result, when I decided to get the oil out of the lifters so I could set the preload correctly I found I had one lifter now 1/2 inch shorter than the rest. Yea all that metal is now in the bottom of my oil pan. Now the question is do I drop the pan or can I get most of the metal out by draining the oil and leting the filter do the rest. Also I'll need a new cam. Any sugestions for a good street motor in the 300-325 range.

Ouch!
I am currently installing a Comp Cams 268 in my 327.According to a the Dyno 2000 program (that another member spent WAY to much time doing for me) it should put out 353 HP at 5500 RPM,379 FT. LBS. of torque at 4000 RPM.Very similar to your Crane grind,another good pick BTW.I have 2.02/1.60 valves though,headers,and am going to a Performer RPM intake.I think the Comp. 260 might be a little better for your set up IMO.The numbers were similar ,330 HP ,but peaked out about 500 RPM sooner.
Good luck on the metal chips,what a bummer.Feel free to E-mail if you have questions about our projects.

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

Rick,

One way to get the loose metal out of your pan is to go out and get a magnetic drain plug for your oil pan. Drain the existing oil out, install the magnetic plug, refill with fresh oil. I would repeat this procedure at least twice and don't forget to toss away the oil filer IMMEDIATELY!!

Thanks, SR I hadn't thought of that. My plug was stripped though, so I have a rubber one installed, but I think I will get some magnets from the hobbie store and epoxy them on the end. Drake I bought a new Comp Cam just like the one I destroyed. It's a 272. Here's the numbers if anyone has a good guess on the HP. .050 intake 216, exhaust 228. .004 cam timeing intake 272 exhaust 284. Intake lift 454, exhaust 480

I did'nt run any dual pattern cams,but I ran an Isky that was 270 dur./221@.050 ,.465 lift ,108 LSA.It peaked out at 365 HP at between 5500-6000 RPM.I did'nt go with it because of it's lack of bottom end torque,and I suspected I would be revving my engine higher then I wanted to in order to make use of this upper RPM HP.
As I posted earlier I think the only major differences in our engines is my RPM intake/your stock one,my headers/your stock manifolds.I am no cam expert,but I would guess your cam,in your engine should put out about 340 HP.
When I put my headers on last year, my engine "pulled" 500 rpm higher,then with the stock exhaust.My engine used to fall on it's face at about 5200 RPM,now I shift at 5700 when racing,just from the exhaust change.I think my new cam/intake will work good till about 6000-6200.BTW my bottom end has been re-done for the higher RPM's

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

Drake, I ran some numbers on my Dyno 2000 program and it looks like the Crane 266 will be a better cam. The 272 would require me to run up in the 6500-7000 RPM range to get the power. The 266 gave quite a bit more low end torque and about 325 HP in the 5000 RPM range. I think I'll call and change my order. Also if this program is very accurate I may have to break down and get headers. When I was playing with it the intake and heads only changed the power by about 10 hp each, but the headers would change it by as much as 50 hp in some cases.

Good choice IMO.I didn't know what RPM range you had in mind for your engine, but I figured you didn't want to go any higher then I was,and the Crane 272 is a bit more radical then my Comp 268,so I suspected it might be a little on the big side.
At one point I was considering going to the Torquer II intake,this intake was input on the Dyno 2000 program with most of my cam choices,but also hurt my low end torque.Also,the Performer,and Performer RPM have provisions to drill the 327 oil fill tube into the front of the intake,mine is at the machine shop being done right now.On the Torquer II you can't do this,so I went with the RPM.I will paint it chevy orange when I get it back,to keep with the stock look.I did this with the performer that is on the engine right now,it looks pretty good IMO.But I agree.If you were to change anything ,the exhaust would make the biggest gain IMO.
It was also a tough decision for me to go with the headers.I like to keep my car as stock looking as possible.I knew it was killing my upper RPM HP though,so I broke down and bought some 1 5/8" Dynomax headers,2 1/4" pipes,balancer tube,I also went with a Flowmaster transverse moumted muffler,it (the muffler)looks pretty stock.

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-18-2000).]