Well;
I've made a few attempts at tuning and here's what I've found, I'm looking for some feedback as to valve lash though.
1)Timing is 8 degrees at 900 RPM. I'm running the original 480 dist I rebuilt (shimmed shaft, and set advance weight springs to lightest, but haven't limited slot for advance with a bushing, and running high rpm Mallory points)
2)Vacuum advance (cannister coming in at 1200-1300)
3)Advance all in 50 degrees at 3000 roughly
I'll put it back on my scope to double check.
4) took the 4053 off to tune with a new street avenger 670
5) runs good but still rough, not enough advance
though it seems, and doing the buy ear method
looks like 12 degrees advance sounds good but isn't this too much?
6) The 30-30cam I set at break in per John Z's EOIC method. (026-.026)But not paying close enough attention now realize I have Comp Cams Roller tips, and a true 1.52 ratio which by my calc's says I'll be at .031-.031 lash.
Guess I need to go back and reset. Any one with experience with comps on a solid lifter?
And setting lash for a 30-30?
I'd hate to pay $300 for a set of "O" rockers
on e-bay right now just for valve lash seeing the comp cams are a huge sight better than those original GM pieces.
Todd

Just some advice, but there is a ton of info on this subject under the search function (except the roller tips). I am waiting for responses to your question, though. I will be firing my DZ in a month or so.

Gary:
I've completely built this car over the years from the help of the Vast knowledge on this Site, and CRG. Anyhow the only thing I'm lacking is I degreed the Cam and found it on. After I did it I assembled the engine and with the new Balancer (a new NOS 8" part) and forgot the step with the head still off, to check true zero with the head off, timing cover and pan on. And am not exactly
sure my timing tab is dead on, I would assume it is but we know what assuming does. I've put degree tape on the balancer which is the only way to go when lashing. Don't forget any of this as checking and not assuming anything is what makes this whole process easier.
Now all I need is time, time, time, to do all the work.

Todd

I assumed you were new because of only 23 posts. I sent my damper to Damper Dudes to be rebuilt. When the engine builder assembled the engine, TDC was not on a mark. I will verify this before it gets installed like you. I am pretty sure a dial indicator will help finding TDC.

Gary;
Just don't forget mark true TDC with heads off, pan on, balancer on, and timing cover on to make sure what is TDC. As finicky as these engines are to tune you can't be too sure where everything will be.
I'm going to have to do three days worth of extra work to be sure.
Todd

Originally posted by VI018DZ:
After I did it I assembled the engine and with the new Balancer (a new NOS 8" part) and forgot the step with the head still off, to check true zero with the head off, timing cover and pan on. And am not exactly
sure my timing tab is dead onYou can verify TDC indication on an assembled engine in about five minutes with a piston stop tool. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

John;
Crane Cams has a piston stop at this link is this the correct type and how far do you install as that would stop the piston earlier or later based on the dome/sparkplug relief. http://www.cranecams.com/?show=accessoriesTools Does it require a 14mm or 12mm? Also Assuming true rocker arm ratio of 1.52. I'm assuming .031-.031 gap, I'm pretty sure when I installed and degreed the cam I had
.12 valve to piston with clay, So with the additional lift of a true 1.52:1 rocker wouldn't you see some (maybe negligable) performance gain?
Todd

John;
Got to thinking I guess depth in is not an
issue. Run the tool in, rotate till stop contacts mark balancer, reverse direction till stop contacts, if its not the same mark measure and divide that by 2 and that measurement is TDC right?
Todd

Put the cylinder near BDC before you install the piston stop so you can screw it all the way in with no interference. Install the stop and snug it down to keep it from rotating. Rotate the engine CW to the stop and make a mark on your balancer in line with your zero mark on the timing tab. Rotate the engine CCW to the stop and make another mark in line with the tab zero. Your true TDC will be halfway between the two freshly made marks. While you're marking the damper, make a mark 36 degrees before TDC so you can use it to set your total timing.

Originally posted by VI018DZ:
3)Advance all in 50 degrees at 3000 roughly
I'll put it back on my scope to double check.
Make sure that you set your timing with the vac advance disconnected and the vac port plugged.. While 50* sounds reasonable WITH vac advance, it is waaaay too much without it. 36* is a good starting point.

Set timing with all mechanical advance in and let the initial fall where it may. If the initial is too great or too small, then re-work the dist to get it where you want it.

[ 12-09-2004, 08:57 AM: Message edited by: BPOS ]