I need a trans xmember to install a 700R4 into a 68 conv that came with a Powerglide. Anyone done this? The 700R4 is longer. Is there a support that will interchange or an aftermarket version? Or do I need to fab one?
Thanks in advance.

Hey Mark, I'm going through the same thing. Mine is actually going in a 78 malibu, and I have to modify the crossmember. Hope this helps. P.S. it shouldn't be that much anyhow to modify

Hi Mark,

I installed a 700 r4 in my 68 that originally had a 2 speed glide. I used a plasma cutter and cut about 4"?? out of the front of the x member. Then I lengthed the perch for the trans mount and streangthed the back side of the x member with 16 gauge. I have a 383 with good heads cam etc and have had no problems with the mods.

For all it's worth,I was looking into this swap on my 67 last year.I went with a TH350,but did alot of homework on the 700 swap.If I remember correctly the trans. mount to crossmember bolt on the 700 is roughly 4" farther back than on the P.G.. Now, a TH400 mount is about 3.75" farther back than the P.G..What you can do is buy a TH400 crossmember for a first gen. camaro,at this point you are only .25 inch away from lining up,just oblong the holes a little on the crossmember,or the frame,presto!I got this idea out of an old CHP mag. that I had from maybe 6 years ago.I even went so far as to buy the 400 crossmember for the swap,but put in the 350 instead.This should work,but like I said I never actually did the swap,so I hate giving advice unless I've done something first hand.If it won't I'm sure someone will post a reply,maybe someone has actully tried this.If I have time tomorrow I'll look for that issue of CHP just to make sure.

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

I forgot to mention ,but you may already know,you have to shorten your driveshaft 4",and I believe you have to use a 700 style slip yolk in place of the old PG one.Everybody I talked to about this swap TCI,B&M,Art Carr,said to use an additional trans. cooler in addition to the stock one.I had mixed opinions on if I should use a lock-up style converter.

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

Hot Rod had an intersting comment in one of its articles on the 1999 Power Tour. For those of you that don't read Hot Rod, the Power Tour is a cross country drive over a period of about 10 days. They noted that people with 700R4 conversions WITHOUT lock-up converters were dropping out like flies.

I was on the Tour and talked with several people who were having trouble. Several had lost 4th gear (overdrive). Based on this, I would highly recommend a lock-up converter.

I chose to stick (no pun intended) with a manual overdrive tranny because of these issues. I understand that the 700R4 can be built to handle high horsepower, but the lock-up converter is the weak link.

[This message has been edited by gheatly (edited 01-05-2000).]

Sorry,I dug out my back issues of CHP and I made a couple of big errors!First I'll list dimentions.
PG/TH 350 20.75" 27.75"
700R-4 22.00" 30.00"
200-4R 26.81" 27.75"
TH400 26.87" 28.37"
The first dimention is bellhousing to trans. mounting bolt,the second is overall length.The info I gave you was for a PG to 200-4R swap!Very sorry about this.I was also looking into doing this swap,and thats what I was thinking about when I gave yesterdays info.Also I dropped the ball on my 2nd reply,the 700R-4 has a 27 spline output shaft,the same as tha PG.you can use the same slip yolk.Thats what I get for answering before I check my sources.The dimentions I got out of an article in the MAY 99 issue of CHP,check it out if you can get this back issue.

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

The Feb. issue of CAR CRAFT just arrived,on page 30 they also also have a list of dimentions.
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67 RS RAGTOP # matching, 4X4 CHEVY TRUCK

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 01-05-2000).]

[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 01-06-2000).]

Recently on an issue or "Trucks!" They were showing how to make your own crossmember by cutting and bending 2" x 1" thin wall boxed steel. I took their idea and found it to be quite easy to do. All you need is some the aforementioned boxed tubing, 4 ft will be plenty, a Sawzall, a grinder, a mig welder,
a drill and assorted bits and you can make your own. My first try took me about four hours and this was for a T-56 six speed. I don't know if the dimensions are the same as your trans but it was not a big deal. I can tell you that you must measure the driveline anlge before you tear out the old crossmember and you must end up with the same angle with the new crossmember installed and supporting the weight of the transmission. If you need more info e mail me.. Hope this helps.

Thanks Folks,

I'll look for the articles and plan on fabricating one. The drive angle will be an interesting challenge. The subframe is out now with the new engine / trans in place. The rest is waiting for me to finish patching holes.
The stall cnverter in it now is a lockup version so hopefully the Tour problems mentioned won't affect me.
Mark


[This message has been edited by SSMark (edited 01-06-2000).]

[This message has been edited by SSMark (edited 01-06-2000).]

I put a 700R-4 (with Impala tail) into my '69 a couple of years ago. I bought a TH-400 crossmember and welded on a two-inch longer trans mount. I then mounted its front hole in the powerglide's former back hole and drilled new ones for the two remaining holes. I used a TCI lockup switch (vacuum operated) to control the convertor. I've since put 50,000 miles on it - trouble free.

Hi Mark,


I am new to the 'site' but I think that I can help.
I have a 68' that I am building and I
have a TCI 700R4. My 700R is a non-lockup
trans and converter system. If you use a
manual reverse valvebody and shift the trans
manually, I don't think that it will be a
problem. With this method, you do not require
a throttle valve (T.V.)cable. However,a
trans cooler is a definite must as these
transmissions run a little on the hot side
anyway. As for the crossmember, you can use
either the stock P.G. X-member or the T.H.400's. The P.G.'s X-member must be moved
back on the subframe and you will have to
cut a little 'clearance' into the front of
the X-member 'lip' to get at the transmission
pan bolts. Just intall the trans and
X-member, (you will need to bang a little clearance into the driverside floor pan so
that the X-member will slide back further.
and it may help to loosen the rear subframe
bolts.),use the X-member's front bolt holes
in the subframe's rear bolt holes and drill
the two new ones. Exact measurments can be
various from car to car so 'mock' everything
up before you drill holes in the subframe
or get the driveshaft cut. The existing slip yoke on your drive shaft will fit the 7000R.
P.G. and T.H.350's and 700R's use the same
slipyoke.
As for the T.H.400 X-member, I believe that
the trans mount holes only need to be
elongated and I am trying that now.
As for the info on the manual reverse
valve body, a mod that I am currently using,
I believe it should work fine if you dont mind "rowing" your own gears. I will update
you with my progres

The last comment on this subject is just as I have done on my car. I have a 68 that came with a power glide and I put a 700R4 into it. I installed mine just as the previous fellow did and it worked pretty slick. My trans came from a place called Bow Tie Overdrive out of Cal. They build up the 700 so they can handle bigger horse power, "I have a 396 BB" they have a lock up converter which they said is a must. I havn't ran my car much but I think the set up will be way nice.

Is the crossmember different for a manual trans. than for an automatic????????????
What shifter are you guys using that have a have a 700R4 with a factory console????????

I got a kit that has all the parts to convert a stock 2 or 3 speed shifter to a 4 speed. Several brackets and an extra notch in the detent plate and also a replacement lense with 1, 2, 3 & D on it. Most of the 1st gen parts vendors have them... Keeps the stock look!! I haven't decided if I will use the new lens yet...

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...DjD
Topless'69 (http://home1.gte.net/ddunio/topless69)
ddunio@gte.com

[This message has been edited by DjD (edited 01-13-2000).]

Thanks Djd. I had no idea there was a kit available to modify the stock shifter.

Hi Guys,


There is also a guy in Rochester N.Y. that makes the kit for $75.,(indicator lens cost $12 dollars more). The company name is SHIFTWORKS and the phone # is 1(716)383-0574.The catalog was free.