View Full Version : 69 ammeter /wiring problems


Grant
Aug 8th, 02, 07:58 AM
Hi guys, I also need some help here. Like nowlin1, I too have ammeter problems-more major though. I bought a new oem ammeter(old one was toast)and need to hook it up back in the console.Here is my problem-In checking the charging circuit and wiring, I found that the previous owner did some bonehead things: 1) had old ammeter grounded to the console. 2) had the "batt" connector on the alternator connected to the neg cable on the battery(how scary is that?). I've since insulated the new meter on the consol and rewired the alternator so that it actually works & charges that battery-gee what a concept huh?. The connector on the back of the ammeter has two wires-1 is black & the other is black w/white stripe. The one with the white stripe is connected to the horn relay which is correct. The other cable is connected to the neg cable on the battery which of course is causing the current grounding condition I have now. I found this problem before I hooked up the new meter thank god. Here is my question-the other cable is supposed to go to the junction block right? Forgive me for not knowing this but what does the junction block look like? I looked in the area where it's supposed to be- the red cable off the pos on the battery goes directly into a wiring loom under the rad support & goes straigh to the horn relay.There is no "junction block" that these wires connect to. Do I need to buy a new harness to fix this prob or am I just missing something here?? I would be glad to here suggestions-if you want to talk in person-my number is 714-847-3815& I can explain in more detail. I need to get this fixed.Thanks guys, Grant

Everett#2390
Aug 8th, 02, 08:25 AM
As lond as it goes from the pos battery post to the horn relay buss bar, you'll do fine.

If you want to improve it, you can swap out the #10 AWG from the horn relay for #6 AWG stranded (more than 7 strands) tin-plated wire with soldered terminal lugs at both ends. Do the same with the red pigtail from the BAT terminal from the alternator to horn relay buss bar. Make sure all grounds are clean, especially engine to battery and alt to engine.

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Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph

Grant
Aug 8th, 02, 08:30 AM
Everett,

What's your phone #? Do you mind if I call you?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Everett#2390:
As lond as it goes from the pos battery post to the horn relay buss bar, you'll do fine.

If you want to improve it, you can swap out the #10 AWG from the horn relay for #6 AWG stranded (more than 7 strands) tin-plated wire with soldered terminal lugs at both ends. Do the same with the red pigtail from the BAT terminal from the alternator to horn relay buss bar. Make sure all grounds are clean, especially engine to battery and alt to engine.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mark C
Aug 8th, 02, 12:05 PM
Did you read this one?
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum10/HTML/001615.html

How about this one?
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum10/HTML/000647.html

or this one (has wiring diagram)?
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum10/HTML/001606.html



------------------
Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
My 69 L48 - 350/300HP Engine (http://www.townisp.com/~markcanning/camaro/transparent%20air%20cleaner3.jpg)

Grant
Aug 8th, 02, 12:56 PM
Mark,
I have a few more questions. Do you mind if I call you?


<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mark C:
Did you read this one?
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum10/HTML/001615.html

How about this one?
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum10/HTML/000647.html

or this one (has wiring diagram)?
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum10/HTML/001606.html

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>