I'm going to upgrade my wireing on my 69 to a modern system. I want to go with blade fuses and heavier wire. I have already converted over to a 100 amp internally regulated alternator. I'm running a 700R4 with a lock up converter. I also have a complete Autometer gauge setup in the console with a factory tach. Do any of these manufacturers have a setup that will cover all of these setups? If not which is the better or easier to install? Do either of these kits use heavier wire? How about heavier on the charging system?
Thanks,
Mike

I have used several of these to boot and prefer the American Autowire (albeit pricey) and the generic Centech Wiring as well.

I recently did my 69 Camaro with the GV 18 kit from Centech and while it was not a connector for connector replacement, the quality and wire is excellent. I bought all my connectors from a Camaro supplier to go with. YOu have to know a little more about wiring with this kit but the quality and wire sizes are better than any on the market in my opinion. I also have the Autometer console which pushed my choice of the Centech (they will send indigneous connectors with the kits now I believe)

The American Autowire is literally a plug and play unit and is a good choice as well. The Painless kits have brought themselves up since I have used them in street rods so I cannot give you an accurate accessment of late.

Whatever you choice, make sure that the charging lead from the alternator goes straight to the battery or battery post on the starter and not brought to the main buss thru the fuseblock. If you are accessory ladened also make sure that the DC main feed bus wire is large enough to carry your load. I put the headlights on relays as well so I did not have to pull lots of current thru the feed, ig switch, panel switch, and then headlight dimmer. This makes all the difference in the world on not only the brightness of you headlights, but also the DC bus voltage that runs around your dashboard feeding everything else. My basic attitude is that cooling fans, headlights and amplified stereos all belong on separate buses and fed directly.

Steve,
My amp and fan on on their own circuts but I do need to put my lights on relays. Do you have any scematics on how you did the lights?
Thanks,
Mike

Steve,

When you started replacing the plugs did you crimp on new connector ends? If so, what tool did you use and how well did it work? I've been looking for a good crimper and have had little luck.

Thanks.

Where did you buy the connectors?....I want to make my own harness but can't find anyone who will sell the connectors and pins.

Regular headlights used to be less than 10 amps many years ago. However, todays higher wattage lamps can easily take in excess of 10 amps. My engineering experience tells me that the ordinary wiring and connection routes for these accessories eat up alot of voltage drops therefore I choose to put the headlights on relays. It's easy to get the leads off the dimmer and just jump into the circuit with power relays to do this with the actual leads of the dimmer being used as signal leads for the relays. Bring the power lead from the battery thru a breaker or fuse. YOu will need two separate relays...one for low and one for high beams. There are two leads that come off the dimmer switch to the headlights.

Carlc....I am not sure what you mean by "plugs"? I do have all professional crimping tools whereas I used to wire circuits in nuclear power plants and large utility transmission gear. Jensen Tools (www.jensentools.com) and Newark Electronics (www.newark.com) has just about any amature or professional tool that you can think of. They have very good crimping and stripping tools at moderate prices.

When I purchased my Centech GV kit, I believe that they had most of the sockets that I wanted as well. Been four years?