I just installed a whole new wiring system in my car. I purchased all new original style harnesses. I tested out my hide aways and they close but won't open. I still haven't connected the front signal lights but don't think this would affect the hideaways. Does anyone have any ideas on why they won't open?

Can we assume this is on a 67 and is an electrical headlight door system, or is it a 68/69 with a vacuum operated system.

I'm sorry. it's a 67 with electrical doors.

does anyone have an answer or suggestion?

Make sure the doors make contact with the limit switches when in the closed position.

How do you get the doors open, just pull on them?

How's you limit switch adjustment? The switches on the headlight assembly must connect to ground with the headlight doors closed. Using an Ohmeter measure resistance to ground from the Dark Blue wire attached to Relay #1 or Relay #3. If you get an open circuit your closed limit switches are out of adjustment. They need to be closed (motor lead connected to ground)until the doors reach the open position at which point they switch over so the doors can close. that part seems to be working correctly The switches on the core support need to stay closed (relays 1 & 3 connected to the motor leads) until the doors reach the open position, at which time the switch flops over to connect the motor lead to ground.

O.K. I messed up. The incorrectly connected the diode. The problem has been fixed. But of course, now I have another problem. When the lights are turned on, the driver's side door continuously bounced off the limit switch connected to the rad support. that was easy to fix with some padding. However, they don't close when I turn off the lights unless I push them off the limit switch. What could be the problem? I've noticed that when the lights are off, the door continously push against the limit swtich. In other words, if you slightly pull them open, they push back towards the closed position. the same happens in the opposite directions when the lights are on. Is this the way it suppose to be? Isn't the circuit suppose to shut down when it hits the limit switch turning the motor off? If so, what could be the problem?

[ 11-09-2004, 09:07 PM: Message edited by: DaMan2 ]

Limit switch adjustment. You will destroy the gears in the motor unless the switches are properly set. The motors should not be moving when the doors are fully opened or closed. Sounds like you need to shim out the drivers side limit switch on the radiator support a little so that it changes state sooner.

The limit switch on the headlight assembly basically controls the closing direction, and the one on the radiator support controls the opening direction. When the doors are closed power comes thru the limit switch on the radiator support, thru the motor and then thru the headlight assembly limit switch to ground. When the door reaches the open position it presses againts the radiator support limit switch which opens the closed contact supply power and connects the motor to ground. At the same time the headlight assembly limit switch disconnects the ground circuit from the motor and connects the motor to the 12V output from the closing relay R1. The closing relay is not energized unless the headlight switch is turned off so no power is present at this time, but the circuit is set up to close as soon as the headlight switch is turned off. Your limit switches are not set right since your still getting power thru the radiator support limit switchs and the headlight assembly switch is still connected to ground after the doors reach full open.

Thanks Mark & ZZ, I'll look into it and let you guys know.

Hi, Having just corrected this EXACT problem with my current 67 and others, here's the fix- First, as a precaution, you should install new teflon washers between your motor shafts and the actuator arms. In addition, you must purchase a pair of thin fender washers with a 1/4 inch hole.This may be 5/16, so long as it fits snugly over the motor shaft, and has a total diameter that closely matches your stock slotted washers thats fine. Starting with the bare motor spindle, install the slotted steel washer, the new fender washer, the new teflon washer, then the arm, followed by another teflon and then the second slotted washer. Finally secure it all with the cone nut,nut and jamb nut as you normally would. This sounds complicated because I'm getting really detailed, but picture your 67 arm system as a clutch setup. Your clutch is slipping too much, which means there is not enough force to trip and hold the limit switches. This is why the motors continue to spin. You cannot reduce the clearance between the washers and arm and increase bite by overtightening the nut- this would only damage the motors. What you need to do is just slightly reduce the clearance between the washers and the arms, producing more bite, and hence the force needed to properly trip and hold the limit switches. I also tried the other suggestions,i.e., pads on the doors,etc. This is not a long term fix, and only masks the problem. If GM wanted the system to have rubber pads, it would have been engineered that way and it was not. I have had three 67 RS cars, and this is THE fix, believe me! Total cost for the new teflon washers is roughly $8, while the washers at Home Depot were about 33 cents each. Limit switch adjustment will not help if there is inadequate force to hold the switches closed. Try this and let me know. I'd be very suprised if this fix did not address the problem. It has worked on all three of my cars, and I hope it works on yours.- Bob

Thanks guys for the suggestions. However, I seem to think that the problem is electrical. The reason I say this is because the the white clothed wired which unites with the yellow wire that connects to the ignition coil is heating up so much that it melted the wiring of the harness (the electrical tape that holds all the wires together). now let me give you guys some background. I installed all new wiring but haven't had the chance to connect the ground from engine to the front frame or the tub of the car. all other grounds from the front head light harness have been grounded to the rad support. now, I've messed around with the limit switches and played with the connection and got the doors to open and close. However, the white clothed wire still heats up. is it because there is no ground from engine to body? Additionally, now the passenger side door is now twiching at the open position. Mark, I now you stated that I should adjust the limit switches but I don't know what you mean. Can you please explain? Just in case, this is how everything is connected: Passenger side door - limit at rad = top wire green, bottom ground and blue, limit @ head light = top wire green, bottom ground and brown wires; Driver's side door - limit at rad = top wire purple, bottom wire blue and negative, limit @ head light = grey on top and brown and negative on bottom. Can someone verify if this is correct? Again when doors are in either open or closed position they are always pushing in that dirrection. Motor is never at rest. again, is this normal. Any additional help would be appreciated.

DaMan2, you are wired correct. I just finished mine also with new harness. You need to get the ground install before you go any further. As soon as the limit switch is closed the motor should stop, meaning you have switch that input to the motor to ground, then you are awaiting voltage from the other direction to open (or close) the door. If after you connect the ground it continues to do this, these is a trouble shooting guide that you can find by doing a search and that should help you.

DaMan2, the white wire in harness is the resistor wire for you distruber if you have a points type. If you have an HEI you need to change this wire. It you read the voltage on that wire without it been hook to anything it should be 9 volts, that is to protect your points. The yellow wire is to provide 12 volts during the cranking of the motor, so make sure you are not ground out that yellow wire on the starter. So if you disconnect the yellow and white wire from the coil and read the volages, it should read 12 volt when starting the engine and then when it go to run, it should read 9 volts. Thanks Jerry

My yellow wire is grounded to the starter. I incorrectly read the wiring diagram in the 67 Factory Assembly Manual. Is this where my problem is occuring? Where should the yellow wire connect to? Should I connect it to the purple wire at the starter? Additionally, I decided to go with HEI and I thought all I had to do was change the clip where the yellow and white wire meet so that they can correctly connect to the distributer. Is this not correct. I would greatly appreciate an explanation as I am having trouble downloading the Adobe files (comp freezes up, don't know why).

The yellow wire connects to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid (the other little one that the purple wire is not on). The other end goes to the + side of the ignition coil. When the starter is engaged the "S" terminal is connected to the terminal with the battery cable on it and it provides 12V to the ignition coil during cranking.

Thanks everyone for the help. Ocala67RS, you hit it right on the head with the grounded yellow wire. I unplugged it from the starter and everything was fine. I am happy to say, thanks to you guys, I have perfectly working RS head light doors. Again, Thank-You!!!!