Ok, i got everything else down except where those ring connectors go (the one by the drivers side and the red wire and black wire ones by the junction block). Which one or do both go to the junction block and does the drivers side one just go into the radiator support? Also doesnt a wire have to come off the battery terminal to the junction block? Thanks for the help.

Which one by the drivers side? Color? Size? Type? Where on the drivers side?

The 10ga red and 14ga black both go the the junction block. However, the black wire should have a 20ga orange wire with a fusable link attached. This link must be used.

You will need to run a wire from the positive terminal to the junction block. If originality is not an issue go with a 10ga wire to match the main feed 10ga noted above.

Do you have a wiring diagram? The best investment I've made for working on my car ar the Assembly Manual, Body by Fisher, and the Wiring Diagram Manuals. The Assembly Manual has a wiring diagram but the printing is difficult to read. They have been worth 100x their purchase price.

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Brain fade. Do not run a 10ga from the battery to the junction block. 14 ga. should be sufficient and will help protect the main 10ga feed.

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the drivers side looks to be 14 ga. and is black, now on the junction block side the red 10 ga. and black 14 ga. seem to be coming from the end of the harness where it hooks up to the headlight. i do have a assembly manual but as you stated it hard to read, from what i can gather the 10 ga. red goes to the junction block and the black 14 ga. appears to go to the headlight bracket??then as i understand it i need that fuseable link coming from the positive terminal to the junction block. also it looks like im supposed to have another 14 ga. maybe coming from the negative terminal and grounded to the fender?? last question my battery cables have none of the wires coming from them, is it better to just buy new ones with them attached or do my own, thanks again.

Let's make sure we're on the same page. What year is your car and does it have factory gauges (factory option or or did you add them?)

My '68 is as follows. I have add-on factory console gauges.

RH side:
10ga red from main harness to junction block. This goes to the horn relay, alternator, and voltage regulator.

14 ga black that turns into 20ga orange fusable from main harness to the junction block. This goes to the console amp gauge if so equiped.

20ga black from the headlamp plug to ground.

On my relay, working from left to right as the relay is mounted in the car:

LH screw lug:
10ga red and 10-12ga black mounted to the LH screw lug.

RH screw lug:
Orange fusable link and black fusable link both mounted to the RH lug.

However, the 1968 diagrams are not good. There is no horn relay detail like that for 67 and 69. I would think they would be similar.

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Sorry I missed a bunch of your questions. If originallity is not an issue making up your own 14 gauge wire from the battery to the junction block is just fine. This is not a fusable link. Use a good new 14 ga. copper stranded wire and crimp/solder/heat shrink the ends with the appropriate ends to match the battery clamp and junction block. Do the same to the negative side except attach the wire to the fender. There may be a small hole on the fender just in front of the fender brace for you to attach to. Make sure there is no paint or rust at this point.

On my car there are only two black wires terminating at the end of the harness. One is a 14ga black with a 20ga orange fusable link attached to the junction block. The other is a 20ga black ground for the headlamps. Mine is grounded just below the junction block but I do not know if it is the factory location.

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carl the car is a 68 with 396. i have an internally regulated alternator so no more voltage regulator or any of those wires. after looking again there are 3 wires coming from the end of the harness, two go into one ring connector(red 10 ga.-brown 14 ga.??) then there is a smaller 16 ga. maybe black one that has its own ring connector that i believe is a ground.

You can check to see if the smaller 16ga is for ground by checking for continutity on the side marker lamp ground. The headlamps and side markers share a common ground for each side so it would be easy to check this with an ohm meter.

There is a 16ga tan wire in the harness, but this is for the headlamps.

Could someone have replaced the fusable link to the junction block at some point in time? Does the 10ga ring connector look like a factory connection?

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