I have a 1989 RS Camaro with the 305 TBI ... and about 196,000 miles on the orginal engine. Here is the problem... I went to start up my car and nothing... I get power to everything when the key is in run.. but when I turn it to start.. nothing. I had drove the car the night b4.. only sat about 6 hours.. and it ran fine. I have taken the starter to get it checked.. and it checks out ok. I have checked the wires running from the battery to the starter.. and I get power there. But on the starter there is another terminal that only has 1 wire to it... and that doesn't have power.. even if I turn the key to start or run. But if I jump the one terminal with the battery terminal on the starter... it turns over.. just doesn't keep running... unless I have endless supply of ether. But I know that too much ether can cause more problems so I only did 5 quick 1 second sprayings. I know that the fuel pump is working and I have replaced the fuel filter. I have replaced the ign switch.. thinking that could be it from reading other postings but that hasn't solved my problem. I get the correct voltage on where I have listed above, just not on the little terminal on the starter. I just don't know what else to try. If anyone could help me out I would be very happy. I have been told that I should just get a new car.. but everyone knows that Chevy doesn't make Camaros anymore, so I rather just fix this one. Sorry for this very lenghtly post, but I but all the info that I have done to help someone solve my problem.

Thank you

Welcome to the Club!! You may victim to VATS. Try to start the car. No start, wait 3-5 minutes, then with the same key, attempt to start. Usually, it will start.

If it does, then you may have a problem with key protion of the ign switch, meaning a replacement is in order of the key tumblers and keys only from the dealer, any GM dealer.

You might check for a faulty starter relay. I know not where it is at, but, how many times has it been started in 196K miles? Same goes for the main power relay to the ECM.

Buy yourself a Haynes specific for your car and study up on the electrical diagrams.

Plenty of talent here.........you'll be glad you found us.

Car still won't start no matter how many times i turn the key. Could the neutral satfy switch cause this problem? Also Code 53 what is that. It isn't in my Hayas manual.

53 is a System over voltage code on a Camaro.
In some GM cars it can also indicate a VATS problem. 46 is usually the VATS error in a Camaro.

Does your Security light in the dash come on? Is the bulb any good in it?

[ 11-13-2003, 06:21 AM: Message edited by: Mark C ]

When you replaced the ignition switch, you also got a new key, right? VATS not a problem then... if you even have it. Does your key have a black plastic thing in the middle of it?

I'd guess neutral safety switch.

Yes I have the key with the black strip in it, does that make a difference? I didn't get another key when I got the ignition switch, since it goes ontop of the steering column about halfway down from the steering wheel to the firewall. Thank you Mark for telling me what a code 53 is. Just that I don't understand how I would be able to fix that. Thank you all that have been replying with info, it does help me out alot.

Ok... I did some searching. Mark C, I seen in a post from 2 years ago that my problem maybe from the security system with the "chip" in the key. I read the reply that you had written. It is in the post that is titled, "security system won't let me start my car" in the Electrical and Wiring under Mechanical. Since I am having the same problems that was posted in the topic. Now the question is, could I get rid of that security system since I have an aftermarket one in the car, or do I need it to have the car run?

If you replace the ignition switch with an auxilairy switch to bypass the original ignition switch the car will never start because of the VATS system. VATS has been in Camaros since 1987, and during the first 2 or 3 years GM had all kinds of problems with the Lock cylinder wearing and the VATS no being able to read the resistor pellet on the key.

You can't remove the VATS system since it is an intergral part of your ECM. If you remove it you will not be able to crank the car, or get the injectors to operate. You can bypass it though. But before you go to all that trouble, get yourself some electrical contact cleaner and spray it into your original ignition switch, and over the resistor on your key. If your lucky it will clean the contacts in the lock cylinderand on the key and the car will start. If the car doesn't start you HAVE to wait at least 4 minutes before trying again. The VATS system enters TAMPER mode and if you don't wait long enough you just reset the alarm timer and the car will never start.

Look at this link:

http://asttraining.com/Files/vats1.pdf

This system seems to cause much confusion, stress, and misery. Hopefully, this will help elevate some of that. VATS stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. It is commonly referred to as PassKey. Later versions include PassKeyII, PassKeyIII and PassLock (which uses no resistor "pellet"). GM first introduced VATS in 1985 on the Chevrolet Corvette, and after proving successful, was later introduced in other models in later years.

Operation: Operation is fairly simple, but lets discuss what all makes up the PassKey system. The most obvious part is the key. The ignition key as a little "chip" in it. This is a resistor "pellet". There are 15 possible resistances, therefore 15 different types of keys each with a different resistance. This reduces the likelihood of a potential thief from having the correct resistance resistor on hand. Then you have to have a special lock cylinder to "read" the key. I use the term "read" loosely, because it does anything but read the key. I will explain more later. Next is the VATS module. It does most of the security work. It is the "brains" of the system. The module is what actually "reads" the resistance, but has to do it via the contacts in the lock cylinder and the related wiring. Think of the module as a Multimeter, and the wires and contacts the Multimeter Leads. The module reads the resistance and determines if the resistance is the correct value. The module will go into several modes, depending on what the module sees. There is "Tamper" "Normal" and "Fail Enable".

Normal: Normal is when the correct resistance is seen during cranking and the module will ground the Start enable relay, and send a "Fuel Enable" signal to the ECM. This basically "turns on" the injectors. If the Fuel Enable signal is lost or not sent, the injectors will never pulse. The signal is a unique "Pulse Width Modulated" signal, which is a series of rapidly switched "on" and "off" voltages that would be near impossible to duplicate. Once the relay is grounded, voltage is allowed to the "S" terminal of the starter, and the ECM is told to pulse the injectors and the car starts.

Tamper: This mode happens when the vehicle is cranked, and the resistance value as seen by the module is not the same as the value stored in the module. When this happens, the module shuts down for 4 minutes. Even if the correct resistance is then seen, the car will not start for the 4 minute "time-out". The security light will also illuminate for the 4 minutes. The Start Enable Relay will not energize and the Fuel Enable signal will not be sent. HINT: if the key pellet is dirty, it will put the module in the "Tamper" mode. If your car fails to crank/start and the security light comes on, try cleaning the pellet, wait 4 minutes, and try again.

Fail Enable: This mode is to help keep the motorist with the right key from being stranded. If a failure happens to the PassKey system AFTER a valid start, this mode is initiated. It allows the vehicle to be restarted, even with a failure present. The security light will remain illuminated to let you know a failure is present. However, this also means that the car can be started w/o a key, and is vulnerable to potential thieves.

Thank You Mark C for that info... it really helped me out to understand VATS. I'm going to try what you suggested and also from the web page that you directed me too. I'll keep you informed on my findings. Thank you again.

Bryan R

Just one question that I thought about, if I replace the key (going to dearler and getting the proper one) will that make a difference? Cause I called a GM dealership and they told me that they would have to look @ the car and then could tell me what is wrong. But that just seems like they want money. And I don't think that $300.00 for them to look @ the car and do 2 hours of work is worth it if all I have to do is replace the lock and key.

The key is the least likely component to fail. It's just a resistor that is set in a recess in the key. The sliding contacts in the ignition cylinder itself is the most likely to fail considering the amount of miles on the car.

If you are going to go and get a new key MAKE SURE it has the same resistance as the key you have. Don't let them just cut you a new key withouth checking it. The Key must be matched to the VATS module or it won't work. There is a label on the VATS module with codes on it. This code should identify the proper resistance needed to operate the system.

Before going to the dealer, do what that .pdf file suggested. Disconnect the connector at the base of the steering column and with the key in the ignition see if you can read a resistance between the two leads. If you can get a good measurement, measure the resistance across the key (a key you know used to start the car) and see if they are the same plus or minus an ohm or two. Wiggle the key while your measuring resistance at the connector to see if you have a good, or bad connection when the switch is turned. If the two resistance measurements are the same, and you have a good connection, I would start to look elsewhere for your problem. The VATS module itself may have failed.

If you can't get a decent reading of resistance down at the connector, measure the resistance across the key, and go to radio shack and buy a 1/4 watt resistor of the same value. If you can't get one that is within the acceptable range buy a potentiometer and set it to the required value. A pack of 5 resistors will cost you about a buck, and a pot will cost about 3 bucks. Stick the resistor into the under dash harness connector (the end going to the VATS unit, not going to the ignition switch) and the car should start. You may need to crimp a set of male of female spade terminals onto the resistor legs so you can plug it into the connector. Tape the whole connector up with electrical tape, and stuff the disconnected connector back up under the dash somewhere.

Are you getting the security light in the dash to light up? Remeber, code 53 is also a possible code for a VATS system Error in some GM cars. If the security light isn't coming on, and you know the bulb is good, it may be the module itself.

Also make sure you didn't blow a fuse that feeds the VATS. I think it has two feeds, one from the Battery and one from the ignition fuse.

ok thank you Mark. I will check on that first and post a reply on my finding.

Know wonder the thiefs pull the entire switch from the cars.

Mark C... I thank you very much on all your help. I was able to get the time and pull the lock cylinder out today. I found out that the problem was one of the 2 wires was cut. So I replaced the whole assembly... which runs about 60 dollars for anyone that reads these posts and has the same problem. Also... you will need to bring your key with you to the GM dealership so that they can cut you a new key with the same resistor for the new lock cylinder. Cost of the key runs about 25 dollars. So all said and done this problem cost about 85 dollars. Which in my opinion, is cheaper then the 300+ dollars that a GM dealership would charge to fix it. Only took about 2 hours to do myself... even without all the proper tools.

Again Mark C.. thank you... and thank you to the rest of the people that helped out.

Bryan R

Glad you figured it out.
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