The previous owner chopped the engine harness and some of the headlight harness (The leads to the alternator). So I picked up a new engine harness from M&H http://www.wiringharness.com (Man do they rock!) with the resistor wire moved 18" further down so it can reach my firewall mounted coil and I have a one wire alternator mounted on the passenger side of the engine. The car has no ground straps or battery cables. So I have a few questions.

1. Should I run the alternator lead back to the starter or to the battery?

2. If I run it to the started should I go up the manifold to the firewall then down or down the front of the block, along the top of the oil pan and back to the starter?

3. If I run it to the battery should I go back to the firewall and around the wheel well or just go across to the battery (kind of ugly)

4. Being that the old alternator leads are cut right where they go into the headlight harness are they all dead? Should I cap any of them?

5. Positive battery lead, run a 14 gauge lead to the junction block behind the battery (that goes to horn relay) and then run a battery cable to the starter right? Again running the lead along the wheel well and down the firewall is the best bet?

6. Will I be sufficiently powered then? All of the rest of the cars power comes from the horn relay right? Being that the old alternator leads are cut am I missing any circuits by connecting this way?

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks guys!

The pos alt cable can go down to the pan and straight to the starter, be nice and clean and invisible.

As for the old alternator cable... I posted a pic of the section of my harness with the tape off, within the last month, in reply to a question about horn relay witing. In an ideal world, you would unwrap it, cut the red wire off where it's spliced in the harness, and rewrap with new tape.

The other two alternator wires go th the regulator, and one comes off the reg to the gen light. With the one-wire, it's all dead now. get rid of them while the harness is untaped.

Then a wire from the battery cable pigtail to the horn relay and you're set.

Could not find your post, what about a nice way to run the battery cables? Should I run em both down to the motor mount and then over to the block? Grounding somewhere near there for the negative and then back to the stater for the positive?

I'll find the post and link it in here.

There are or should be, 2 clips on the sub for the batery cables, one is on the main crossmemebr, have to find the other in the assembly manual so I can put my new ones on... The pos cable attaches to 2 clips on the pan rail, again, back to assembly manual for which bolts, got the clips, haven't put em on yet.

As for the neg cable, haven't researched that out yet as for where it went from the factory. Mine used to go to one of the "old tri-5" motor mount bosses in front of the fuel pump, seems as good a place as any.

http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimatebb.php/topic/10/3543.html

Thanks Jim,

Ya looking at the 67 assembly manual I see those locations on the cross members (One on the top of the forward member and one on side of the main. (UPC 12-A5.5), It also shows the neg cable going to a water pump bolt (UPC 12-A5). I "think" I might try to come up with a double clip that I can run both the pos and neg cables along the same route on the cross members and use one of the tri-5 mount holes on the front of the block for the ground. BTW how far down the headlight harness was the hot lead from the alt solder joint located and was it towards the fuse block of towards the regulator?

Thanks!

Bill

The splice is the red wires on the left, in the first pic I posted in that link. It's located about 3" down from where the reg & horn relay wires come off the main bundle, not on the main bundle itself. If you look close, you can see 4 red wires soldered together. The top right is from the battery, top left from the alternator, botton left to horn relay, bottom right to regulator.

The repro battery cable clips I bought "appear to be able to hold both cables, but I haven't tried them yet.

Another thing I did, since I have a major Stereo (dueal power amps, over 600 watts) and a battery with both top and side terminals, I used the top terminals for factory spring ring cables, then used the side terminals to feed and ground the amps. The 4 guage hot wire for the amps is wrapped into the harness, with the fuse by the regulator, then 8 guage also in the harness going to the trunk.

So I can just lose the regulator all together right? Is the brown lead from the regulator to the fuse block dead also? I like the idea for the amps, I have an Optima Red and it has both terminals also. Might have to try that trick once I actually get to the point of having a stereo.

The brown wire goes to the gen light on the dash. With the one wire, it's dead.... well, it's not really dead, it'll have 12 v on it if the bulb is in and good, but you don't need it.

Hey Jim where did you get the cable clips?

Bill

Ricks and I haven't tried to put them on yet, but the stud goes thru the middle, and both sides are the same, so it looks like it'll hold both cables... still trying to figure out how to attach them, they seem to have a rivet typew thing that sticks thru the hole in the sub, have no clue how to expand it to get it to hold. The one that's still on (that has one side of the clip missing or broken off) spins like a top on the sub, will have to drill it to gewt it off.

too many projects going... engine & trans are ready to go back in, dash is sanded and ready to paint... polishing the stainless window trim and the alternator now... front clip sheet metal all blocked and primed, need to start sanding the rest of the body... it's endless, and spring is getting close.