: turn signal, brake, parking lights
Jun 20th, 00, 06:37 AM
I've got a 67 camaro conv. These are the symptoms
Turn headlights on: They work and rear lights work. With lights on depress the brakes and left works right doesn't. The parking lights are not lit up, are they supposed to be when headlights are on?
Turn parking lights on: Left turn signal indicator on dash comes on(doesn't blink) and stays lit. Front parking lights come on as do rear. Depress brake as above left works right doesn't. When parking lights are on I can depress turn signal lever and simulate blink of left front turn signal rear doesn't respond.
When I pull the light switch from parking to headlights left turn indicator on dash goes out and the lever simulation(described above) doesn't work at all. Looked through some of the posts looks like could be ground problem. Have looked for grounds I could find but am sure I missed some. Where are they located on 67 standard convertible.
This car has been in restoration process since 1988 and in and out of body shops for the first 6 years(3 went out of business and some even stole parts. It's been in my garage for the last five years.Have finally gotten up the guts to finish what they've ruined but need some help. Everything worked fine before this "restoration" started. Car is 67 standard conv camaro 327/210 Auto powerglide w/ floor console w/o floor console guages. I seem to asking for alot of help at this point and hopefully some day can return the favor as I become more "knowlegable". Waht a scary thought. Thanks for any and all help. A lot of extraneous info but thought it might help explain my frustration level at this point! Again thanks!!
Jun 21st, 00, 03:55 PM
The front grill parking lights come on in the mid position on the switch, but with the switch fully pulled out, the front parking lights are off. However, you can change this by moving the very back wire on the light switch to the open spade at the front of the switch. This does not hurt anything on non-RS cars.
You're non-blinking right blinker is either the round flasher located in a clip below your ignition switch (not the emergency flasher on the fuse block), or a corroded housing which is not making a good ground. Even though it looks like the ground wire is making good contact with the radiator support, the housing can be corroded between the tube where the hot wire enters and the rest of the light housing. Turn the center tube part of the right parking lamp a little bit while the light switch is in mid position to see if the light comes on. If so, you have disturbed the corrosion and you are now making a better ground.
Also, early 67's had a ground wire on the back of the speedo housing that first went to the high beam housing and then up to the top center screw where the housing meets the dash. Later 67's and 68's replaced the thin wire with a flat metal ground strap in this same location. Do you have a lighted speedo and fuel gauge with the headlight switch on? If not, check for this ground strap.
The above problems are more common in my opinion than a actual problem in the turn signal switch in the column, or a bad connection at the fuse block/underhood clip wire penetration.
Jun 21st, 00, 06:36 PM
I used to think grounds weren't to important, boy am I wrong. I've done all but twist the right parking light housing and replacing the blinker assembly under the ignition switch, going to replace it tomorrow. Tonight I figured the ground to the right parking light was bad when I jumped it with another wire and touched it to the parking light on another part and low and behold things worked. When the ground was bad all kinds of crazy things happened, right blinker on dash stayed on when parking light switch was on and off when pulled for headlights and both front parking lights flashed as if the emergency flashers were on. Put the jumper ground back on the rt parking light and things were back to normal. One stinking ground caused all this. Last night while I was checking all the grounds, cleaning, installing new dimmer switch, etc.. I then I started the car and pulled the light switch all the way out the headlights came on as usual but got REAL BRIGHT and then went out and haven't worked since. Burned them out I guess although I don't know why. So now the problems I'm having are the rt parking light ground(at least I know what's causing it), the burned out headlights, and the right rear tail light that only the parking light works on. Beginning to suspect a bad light socket. Any other suggestions? They'd be appreciated and welcomed. The help has been great so far and you don't know how much I appreciate it! Hey even ALL my dash lights work. They didn't all work 12 years ago when this all started. Figured while all was torn apart I'd replace bulbs. Couldn't believe the 1.99 bulbs in resto mags were .43 at dealer.
Jun 24th, 00, 05:14 PM
Thanks bonecrusher. Bad parking light ground between housing and lamp socket and bad dark green wire from steering column to rt rear turn/brake light. Now the alt light cpmes on and stays lit. Any suggestions?
Jun 26th, 00, 01:15 PM
If the light is only on at low rpm, then I'd say it has something to do with an accessory, like a stereo or amp. The external voltage regulators really aren't very beefy like the later model internal ones in my opinion. But if the light is staying on all the time, that could be either an external voltage regulator or alternator thing. I'm going to have to look at a wiring diagram, rather than shoot from the hip on this one (I've got one somewhere).
Hey that corroded parking lamp thing, made me scratch my head until I finally stumbled on turning the center tube. That's a solution they don't list in the old restoration books.
Jun 26th, 00, 07:20 PM
On the headlights, check your dimmer switch. I think the dimmer puts the "new" filiments on first, and then shuts off the "old" filiments.
If your dimmer got stuck, it might keep both sets of filiments on in your headlights. This could overload the circut and might burn out either the headlights, or fuesable link, or damage the dimmer switch or many times the plug into the dimmer switch.
I've seen corrosion on the plug into the dimmer switch cause melting on GM pickup trucks I've worked on.
The older I get, the faster I was!
Jun 28th, 00, 11:55 AM
bonecrusher and davidpossi, So far since checking all grounds, replacing drk green harness wire to rear(spliced in 4 places), turning front parking light sockets, replaced dimmer switch, the light still came on(stayed bright) on periodically. I gave up on the electrical for the day(frustrated, had spent countless hours on it. I decided to touch up engine compartment where body shop had oversprayed. Had to take wires off altenator. I reattached them the next morning and the altenator light hasn't come on since. Have attached temporary headlights(body shop loaned me) and loaded the electrical system with everything going and alt light didn't come on under a load. Who knows maybe it's "fixed". Hope so. going to install correct headlights tonight. Have a mechanic friend who said he'd test my alt and regulator. Am considering going to internally regulated alt. Want to leave orginal parts in for cosmetic appearance. Any suggestions? Thanks for all the help! Hope I don't have to trouble you again with this.
Jun 28th, 00, 03:50 PM
I jumped the gun. It came on again when I took a spin around the block. Then I remembered someone saying tap the external voltage regulator. I did and the light went out. I might have to replace it. What do you think? Or since it's been sitting so long in the garage will it stop sticking after awhile? Let me know what you think. Thanks
Jun 29th, 00, 10:31 AM
It probably will work now. I use to have the same problem on my boat with a 318 Mopar and external voltage regulator. I'd beat on that baby a couple of times the first day out on the lake, and then she worked fine for the rest of the season.
I'm resisting changing over to the internal setup, because I want to keep the stock look too. But, I'm also running a 150W amp for two 8" subs and a 250W amp for mid and high range speakers. I know that poor little voltage regulator is freaking out, but I love my tunes.
Jul 14th, 00, 10:18 AM
Just thought I'd let you all know thanks to all your help my electrical problems are fixed. I hoped I haven't jinxed myself now by saying this. After redoing all grounds, running new rear light harness wire and replacing External voltage regulator things are working. Thanks ALL!! Now onto the interior.
Jul 15th, 00, 04:37 PM
Hey no1dc1983 and all others who helped on this set of problems: Just wanted to say I benefited from this dialogue also.
I am working on solving my electrical problems also that pertain to (probably) a faulty external voltage regulator. (I have one on order that I think will fix my problem.) First I found contacts inside the voltage regulator that were arced-over. I filed those smooth which fixed part of my problem, but not all my problems. I then noticed a small, fine wire going to, I believe, the field coil was badly frayed... like it had been fried or worn out.
I have a new voltage regulator on order that, I'm pretty sure, will fix my problem
But, I agree, external voltage regulators seem troublesome and also 30 year old wiring has its problems. I am also experiencing some problems with my rear lights, but I can get them to work OK for now. I am planning on installing at least a new rear harness some time soon... I spliced several wires already and have found many of them to be very, very hardened and corroded even when covered by the insulation on the wires! Grounds are no doubt a big issue.
Glad to hear you got your car sorted out no1dc1983... sounds like a 10 year old nightmare.
Thanks davidpozzi, bonecrusher, and everyone else out there.
Jul 16th, 00, 04:34 AM
Jmar. You can save some money by going to NAPA or probably another Auto parts supplier and make your own wire harness. They carry the contacts that you can replace in the harness plugs as well as color coded wire. Probably can save 2/3rds to 3/4ths the cost of harness. Good luck.